Saw chain and bar question

[skindaddy]

Thinking about looking at a husqvarna 395 need for big trees and also some milling. Anyway thinking maybe getting around a 3ft bar and also maybe little longer for milling. What size/length do bar increase by in inches? Also prob another silly question but how do you figure out what chain length or drive links you need? To figure out myself example say 36", 48" or even 60"
Had same saw awhile I just know what I have or use.
Also would you go for the .063" setup versus the .058" I'm thinking so.
Any other thoughts

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I don't know much about milling, but I do know that mills rob from the usable bar length, and I know that milling is a power hungry task.

You see 28", 32", 36", 37"(which means true 36"), 42", and 50" pretty commonly. Bars will typically have the required number of drive links stamped on them. For bars over 32", the wider groove of the .063 stuff carries oil better.

 

[sean donato]

I run a 36" .063 for milling on the 390 and 394.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Forgot to say, I just finished putting a 50" Cannon bar on my 395. It's a LOT of bar.

 

[sawfun]

Forgot to say, I just finished putting a 50" Cannon bar on my 395. It's a LOT of bar.

I dunno about milling, but my 395 has no trouble oiling a 50 inch bar in very pitchy wood. Now that it's ported, it pulls that length bar just as well as my ported 088 did. I'm sure it will pull a 60" just as well.

 

[J D]

This
httpss://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/gauge-of-chain.349980/
Has a bit of useful info.
There are common bar lengths, but they can be just about anything & some bars the "same" length can be upto an inch different & require a different number of drive links for their chains. DL count is usually stamped/printed on the bar

 

[sean donato]

Guess I forgot to mention its 3/8" 115dl.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I dunno about milling, but my 395 has no trouble oiling a 50 inch bar in very pitchy wood. Now that it's ported, it pulls that length bar just as well as my ported 088 did. I'm sure it will pull a 60" just as well.

Honestly, I have less question about the saw handling that bar than about my ability to toss it around! That's what I meant by "a lot of bar".

 

[Husky Man]

I don't know much about milling, but I do know that mills rob from the usable bar length, and I know that milling is a power hungry task.

You see 28", 32", 36", 37"(which means true 36"), 42", and 50" pretty commonly. Bars will typically have the required number of drive links stamped on them. For bars over 32", the wider groove of the .063 stuff carries oil better.

when milling, Don’t expect to be able to mill as wide as the mill’s “Listed Size “ and Do Expect to need More Bar than the Mill’s Listed Size

When using a typical Alaskan style mill, a 36” mill will have about 33.5” between the inside faces of the bar clamps, and you will need a 42” bar to get that from a 36” mill

with a 36” mill, and 33.5” between the clamp faces you really don’t want to try to mill much over a 30” wide cut, you want to have at least a little “Fudge Factor” built in to allow for bumps and knots in the wood, and to avoid binding, if you don’t keep it perfectly perpendicular to the centerline of the log you are milling

Typically figure a mill 6” larger than the logs you expect to mill, and a Bar 6” bigger than your mill



Doug

 

[sean donato]

when milling, Don’t expect to be able to mill as wide as the mill’s “Listed Size “ and Do Expect to need More Bar than the Mill’s Listed Size

When using a typical Alaskan style mill, a 36” mill will have about 33.5” between the inside faces of the bar clamps, and you will need a 42” bar to get that from a 36” mill

with a 36” mill, and 33.5” between the clamp faces you really don’t want to try to mill much over a 30” wide cut, you want to have at least a little “Fudge Factor” built in to allow for bumps and knots in the wood, and to avoid binding, if you don’t keep it perfectly perpendicular to the centerline of the log you are milling

Typically figure a mill 6” larger than the logs you expect to mill, and a Bar 6” bigger than your mill

View attachment 892503View attachment 892504View attachment 892505

Doug

That's solid advise, wish I had that when I bought my mill lol. I should have gone with a 48" wide mill mill and 50" bar, but the 36" set up works most of the time. I just get to freehand some areas from time to time to make the 36" fit. I dont do enough milling to justify getting another bar and different rails though.

 

[skindaddy]

Goodnight huskyman what length bar on that last pic? Is that a 3120 on it? Would be nice but it's gonna be tight if I can even get the 395 but 500 more for the 3120 not gonna happen unfortunately.

 

[skindaddy]

Does that sandwich the bar tip, that's how I build mine I don't want any part of drilling the nose gear

 

[Husky Man]

The pic shows a 60” bar, the pics with the mill mounted would be of a 44” bar mounted in a 48” mill. I learned the lessons of a Mill’s “Listed Size” the Hard Way, a 44” bar should be Close Enough for a 48” mill, Right???, and a 36” bar should be PERFECT for a 36” mill, Oops, Nope

My neighbors cut down this Huge Maple, and I have a 72” mill and bar that I haven’t assembled or mounted yet, for doing the lower trunk
There is also plenty of work for the 36” and 48” mills too

If you are interested in a 3120XP, there is a member, Dave “thechainsawguy” that sells NIB 3120XP’s PHO, for $1399 SHIPPED. I bought my 3120 from Dave, as have several other AS members, Dave is a Reputable and Reliable seller, I would recommend or buy from him again

I have used the 3120XP with the 44” bar for large firewood and it is a little nose heavy, it balances very well with a 36” on it, but I was surprised just how nose heavy it was with the 60” mounted, I don’t even want to think about what the 72” is going to be like, Thank Heavens those will only be used for milling, I can handle the 48” mill fine by myself, but I imagine that I will need help handling the 60” and 72” mills, I’m Not 19 anymore, and that was almost 2/3 of my lifetime ago

Doug

 

[Husky Man]

Does that sandwich the bar tip, that's how I build mine I don't want any part of drilling the nose gear

Yes, that clamps at both ends of the bar, that is part of the reason that you need about 6” more bar, you need to keep back from clamping too close to the nose sprocket, and crushing it.

By removing the Dawgs, and drilling through the nose sprocket, you can get by, with a bit shorter bar, but without doing either, adding 6” of bar length to the mill’s listed size, is a pretty good rule of thumb

My 44” bar is a good fit for the 36” mill, I plan on getting a 50” bar for the 48” mill, I have the 60” bar and can convert one of my 5’ EZ Rails sets into a 60” mill, and I have the 72” bar and mill.

The bars for the 48”, 60”, and 72” mills don’t quite max out the capacity of the mills, but I can just go up to the next larger mill if I need to, and if the 72” bar and mill aren’t adequate, it is probably more than I can or should try to handle anyway

Doug

 

[skindaddy]

Thanks guys for the help been awhile since I been here, still
great help here.

 

[Husky Man]

Thanks guys for the help been awhile since I been here, still
great help here.

NIB = New In Box
PHO = Power Head Only/ No Bar and Chain, but everything else that normally comes in the Box, FWIW that is how Husqvarna sells the 3120XP, if one comes with a B&C is a Dealer packaged set

Doug