Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by mainewoods, Feb 23, 2014.
Very good point.
Be a helluva tree for a 660 to struggle. We are going to need pics!
Because you can. I can totally respect that.
I guess I have never really messed with 18" length rounds. For a straight noodler, the 395 would do well as well as down to a 562. I know the outboard clutch is a choke point for noodling on the 395. It is on the 394 when noodling 30" rounds.
I have never run a 395. The fact it balances awesome with a 20" I find questionable but, if it does for you, then awesome.
I do have a 394 with a 32" that is my go to saw. I grab that saw for pretty much everything from limbing to hogging. 36" just wrecked the whole dance of a great saw for me.
My 7900's (mid size) smallest bar is 24". They balance better with 24" and 28" than 20". They actually feel lighter in hand with a 24" bar than 20. I also have a 28" bar so that is on the other one. These actually noodle better than the 394 due to discharge.
My little kid Dolmar 510 has an 18" bar. That's what gets thrown in the vehicle when going out in the woods to check trails.
Which still leaves me, why a 20" bar with a big saw when same can be done with less.
I dunno Benp, I think 20in just gets a lot done for me. Grew up running 20in while cutting fire wood. I did find a 77cc Poulan Pro (Jonsered) on Craigslist for $100 I've seriously been considering grabbing, it has a 24 but I might put a 28 on it for "my big saw" Any of you fellas run a 2077 Red, or Partner 7700 or Poulan Pro 475?? I figure $100 for a 77cc saw, if it runs it is a good deal..... Unless you guys tell me that model is a turd....
Was running my smallest Husky today, the pallet pile at work was getting out of hand so the 136 got going and made some kindling for my woodstove. I keep the flats handy for the wife and just run the 2x4 sections in the stove for "free heat" Ive learned to run them wide open throttle so that they don't nasty up the chimney too much.
Little update on Bills wood pile, my jackass nephew that stepped up big on Saturday, he was supposed to finish the splitting yesterday... Still hasn't showed up. Bill asked me if I have heard from him, "nope, but ill fix his ass" quick call to my dad (he gives NO shits about hurting feelings) and I think the kid will be there tomorrow. Pops has never been one to sugar coat anything, he'll explain to my 20 year old nephew that real men don't say they are going to do something then back out. I was worried that the kid was just saying he'd show to make himself look good to my dad, pops told me to give him the benefit of the doubt. And I know, something might have come up, but NO CALL NO SHOW is BULL$HIT.
Looks like Saturday I'll be doing wood again, oh at my house too, having a load of logs dropped off too. Bartered one of my employees, his dad sells wood. Traded "take off wheels" for a load of logs, he said "you sure you don't want split wood" I said, will I get more wood in log form.... "yes" well I don't mind working, give me logs.
Let me know if you need help.
Ill let you know
And I get that Matt, I do.
But running a 20" bar on 17 and a half pound power head.
To bad you weren't closer. I would have no problem lending a hand.
I'm completely confused. A 395 with a 20" bar is dumb as a bucking/noodling saw but a 394 with a 32" bar makes sense for limbing?
I'm glad I have saws with various size bars for different tasks, but if I could only have one size it would be 20", and I have more of them than any other size.
1 16"; 1 18"; 4 20"; 3 24"; 2 28"; and one 36".
I never said it was dumb. Just makes no sense to me.
My 394 is used for limbing, bucking, and felling in the same stroke. It is my grab first do all saw, with a 32" bar.
It actually is the lightest saw in hand in the herd.
Like I said. If your 395 with the 20" works well for you with no complaints then awesome.
When you have a long bar you don't bend over... you just use the front 1/3 of the bar to limb with. You just can't be a moron and have kickback.
Ive seen it done, and I limb with my 20 bar the same way when I can get away with it, why bend over and stress lower backs?
That's too many different chains Mike.
That's just his bars, wait till you hear how many chains he has for each............
In my experience long bars kick back way less do to the heavier mass hanging out the front.
You may get a little bump but nothing that wants to eat your ass like a 18" bar.
I'll be honest small bars spook the hell out of me.
My little Dolmar has wanted my lunch more than once.
At least he is prepared.
Seems to me, if I recall correctly, on Sat when you me and your Dad bucked over 15 cord of wood, everyone used my saws as much as their own (or more). I know your Dad really appreciated a few of em, and I think you even wanted to take a Shihl home with you! (and yes, it had a 20" bar)!!!
Keep in mind, I also mill. The 24" and 36" see lots of use when I do, and milling can dull a chain fast, so it is nice to have some extras. In fact, if you have 2 90 cc saws with 24" bars, you can let one cool down while you use the other. Milling is tough on everything. I try to bring saws to match the job. Several times, my 261 w/18" B&C can do everything, but other times larger stuff is better.
Yeah, that ms360 is something special. We definitely need to run the 262xp vs it... The more tanks that go through this 262xp the stronger it is feeling....
Who would not want to take a non stock saw home Mike?
I ran a tree monkeyed 064 years back, that was a beautiful beast.
I wouldn't let go.
"You need to go visit, yeah no problem, I'll babysit."
Ill let you know when Rich Onorati II drops off my logs, we'll have to run them against each other.....
I think it'll come down to who's chain is sharper, both saws are sweeeeeeet
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