Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I agree generally but just to point out a couple of bits that don't come across very well from your post.
1. all petrol (gasoline) has the same calorific value, high octane has no more oomph.
2. The higher the ron, the 'LESS explosive' it is, i.e the less it will auto detonate.
3. Higher RON fuel allows tiing to be advanced without autodetonation aka knocking or pinking. KNocking is bad, it will damage an engine, but advance timing generally gives more efficiency and power. So premium fuel allows for more power IF the engine is advanced (auto tune will advance the timing I assume? cars definitely do, car EMUs are constantly striving to advance, but have knock sensors and retard again if knock is detected. fill a car (like mine, a modern turbo powered semi performance engine) with standard fuel and I notice it knock and run rough/won't rev and pick up, then it settles quickly but I'll get may 10% less mpg. fil it with premium again and it will take 3 or 4 tank fulls to slowly advance to its max again.
4. Ethanol increases (yep really) RON/Octane.
5. Ethanol absorbs water, if it absorbs enough it separates out as a gel to the bottom of the tank, strpping the RON from the remainng fuel and sludging the lines and carb. Keep the tank sealed and water away and it can't happen very fast.
6. ethanol also attacks and softens some rubbers - bad for lines and carb diagphrams
7. fuel also contains aromatics (benzene ring based compounds). These oxidise over time and form gums and varishes which block carb jets etc. Star tron (which i also use ) etc work by slowing the oxidation process. Star tron also claims to solve ethanol problems....err.....no idea what chemistry it claims to use there.
8. final problem with old fuel is simply the volatile components evaporating. the really volatile stuff is small enough molecules it will diffuse through plastic cans, so seal and store in metal cans. loss of volatiles jut makes it harder to start a cold saw, but still runs ok.

Yes all gas in theory has the same energy per ounce. As I said higher octane allows a larger power transfer by being a more controllable detonation. Ethanol does absorb water but ethanol doesn't need water to separate. Maybe your Euro fuels are different but untreated ethanol 87 starts to break down in about 30 days when we tested it. Aromatics last a considerable longer time in non-ethanol fuels. There is also a variation in brands of fuels. Whether it is BP fuel, Holiday fuel, or Kwik Trip fuel. What they have added in to make it there signature named fuel makes a difference in energy transfer and longevity. If we take a fuel that is sold around here that is called neat 92 which is a non oxy zero additive fuel it stays very close to it's pump form for 10-15x longer than your 87-89 octane pump fuel. The reason isn't because it has 5 more octane, it's because it is a more pure form of gasoline.

You can run old broken down fuel but it isn't a guarantee that it will run ok or at all. It's simple enough to do the gerber test in your garage. Take a few gerber food jars and store different fuels in them. Keep them out of the sun and in a semi controlled area. Strip a little out and ignite it on the cement. The purer fuel will win at every stage whether it is at 1 month or 2 years.

Startron is a great product and what I use as well. In theory starton keeps ethanol from separating from fuels by absorbing water before ethanol can and tightening the bond between fuel and ethanol. Ethanol and fuel don't just mix. It's a forced marriage and the second that they can get divorced they will and it happens sooner than later.
 
I don't like everything they do in EU, but small turbo engines is one thing we should really be paying attention to. I dont understand why all vehicles here are not AWD and turbo out of the box. The performance/efficiency/emissions gains are hard to argue. Could you imagine what a Mustang would be with an AWD, turbo/super charged flat 6 mid-engine design? My buddy has an AWD Taurus SHO with the 3.5L ecoboost and that car will eat mustangs for breakfast. Then have Camaro for lunch. Then finish the day with Chargers. American muscle cars are weak now.
The cars make plenty of power there just over weight pigs. Mustang GT 3700lb, camaro almost 3900lb, and the king of the fatties challenger at 4400+lb. Take all the unnecessary crap out and it wouldn't be hard to drop multiple hundreds of pounds off any of them and then you have a whole different driving experience. Muscle car drivers are becoming weak and bringing the cars down with them. AWD turbo cars are fun but understeer like a FWD when pushed hard even the Evos and STIs. The GTR doesn't count cause the computer drives it for you. Also much harder on drive train parts if your drag racing.
 
I've heard a few times that the current small engine and turbo tech has delivered all it can on emissions and the next move is back the way of big engines.

Mazda skyactive engine looks good, a petrol engine with diesel compression and the fuel injected like a diesel, no throttle and spark ignition.... Very high diesel like efficiency with petrol levels of emissions.
 
The cars make plenty of power there just over weight pigs. Mustang GT 3700lb, camaro almost 3900lb, and the king of the fatties challenger at 4400+lb. Take all the unnecessary crap out and it wouldn't be hard to drop multiple hundreds of pounds off any of them and then you have a whole different driving experience. Muscle car drivers are becoming weak and bringing the cars down with them. AWD turbo cars are fun but understeer like a FWD when pushed hard even the Evos and STIs. The GTR doesn't count cause the computer drives it for you. Also much harder on drive train parts if your drag racing.
I know it’s apples to oranges but my big block Chevelle was only 3600 lbs.
 
I've heard a few times that the current small engine and turbo tech has delivered all it can on emissions and the next move is back the way of big engines.

Mazda skyactive engine looks good, a petrol engine with diesel compression and the fuel injected like a diesel, no throttle and spark ignition.... Very high diesel like efficiency with petrol levels of emissions.
lecky motors, graphene based electricity storage devices like ultracaps etc, graphene based solar PV. Such a pity the crash will get here before most of this stuff is mass market ready and adopted.
 
I know it’s apples to oranges but my big block Chevelle was only 3600 lbs.
My 68 Cuda convertible big block 4 speed is 2940 pounds. 68 Car Craft magazine said it was good for straight line driving only, too nose heavy. I found with radials and good shocks it handles quite well. As much as I miss the good old days, I don't miss bias belted tires.
 
I know it’s apples to oranges but my big block Chevelle was only 3600 lbs.
The 383 4 speed Dart in mom's garage is under 3400.

differnt cars for different roads. european roads have bends, our cars are design to go around them ;)
I would rather be on a twisty road in a stock miata then on a drag strip any day. A stock miata with a set of sticky tires will make most anything work real hard to get away on a twisty back road. Bracket racing a stick car would probably be the only way to get me back to the drag strip.
 
My old Big Block Mustangs (67/68) were only 3,000-3,200 lbs, and they flew! My 70 Boss 302 Body (with the 427 Ford in it) was a bit heavier, but not much, and with BFG wide oval Radials (the first) is handled well and ran with most anything on the street that was not tubbed in the 1/4 mile.

My current Stang is about 3,600 to 3,700 lbs, but with 550 Hp and the Steeda Suspension and Nitto Tires (275X40X18 Front 285X40X18 Back) it handles very well. Also has Griggs Racing lower control arms and Torque arm.

IMO, a hot rod is rear drive, a stick, and you don't use traction control. If you can't drive it, don't.

ps You step on the gas in my car, you better know how to counter steer, and modulating the right foot a bit helps. The objective is to go fast, not just spin tires.

Oh, and I got a Asian 440 Big Bore kit saw running today, but it has been a frustrating project.
 
Back in the Day, at Dover Drag Strip (now just a memory, it has long been closed), I remember seeing a 1968 426 Hemi Cuda Super Stock National Record Holder. He was running high 9s.

On one run in his class, he missed second, then caught the gear, and still won. It may be the only car that impressed me more that the 1967 427 Ford Fairlane that was also kicking ass (the 454 Chevelle's had just come out, and the 427 beat it). Both cars had been beating their competition till that point, and my Bow Tie friends were ribbing me that the Ford was done, but it did not turn out that way.
 
Did a little shopping today and no I didn't sell any of my other saws. I am going to sell a few though getting tired of tripping over them. I have some that I have never even started after I bought them. And I'm getting tired of the robins taking over stuff too. Left one of my Steiners hooked up to the splitter for a few weeks and this happens. Eggs got pretty warm before I happened to open up the hood. Drove it back over to where it was parked and left it there.
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Did a little shopping today and no I didn't sell any of my other saws. I am going to sell a few though getting tired of tripping over them. I have some that I have never even started after I bought them. And I'm getting tired of the robins taking over stuff too. Left one of my Steiners hooked up to the splitter for a few weeks and this happens. Eggs got pretty warm before I happened to open up the hood. Drove it back over to where it was parked and left it there.
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Congrats on the new saw buddy :clap:.
And the new little crappers lol.
 
My old Big Block Mustangs (67/68) were only 3,000-3,200 lbs, and they flew! My 70 Boss 302 Body (with the 427 Ford in it) was a bit heavier, but not much, and with BFG wide oval Radials (the first) is handled well and ran with most anything on the street that was not tubbed in the 1/4 mile.

My current Stang is about 3,600 to 3,700 lbs, but with 550 Hp and the Steeda Suspension and Nitto Tires (275X40X18 Front 285X40X18 Back) it handles very well. Also has Griggs Racing lower control arms and Torque arm.

IMO, a hot rod is rear drive, a stick, and you don't use traction control. If you can't drive it, don't.

ps You step on the gas in my car, you better know how to counter steer, and modulating the right foot a bit helps. The objective is to go fast, not just spin tires.

Oh, and I got a Asian 440 Big Bore kit saw running today, but it has been a frustrating project.
My friends single turbo fox has the full Maximum Motor Sports setup under it and even at 670 to the wheels handles like it's on rails. 305s out back it hooks pretty well to.
 
The 383 4 speed Dart in mom's garage is under 3400.

I would rather be on a twisty road in a stock miata then on a drag strip any day. A stock miata with a set of sticky tires will make most anything work real hard to get away on a twisty back road. Bracket racing a stick car would probably be the only way to get me back to the drag strip.
I forgot you had that one under wraps. I had a chance to buy a 68 GTS, yellow with black stripe, 383 auto. I already had the 68 Formulas S 383 4 speed. The guy that owned the Dart GTS was in jail, and his brother was trying to sell me the car, so I passed. Should have bought it. The yellow Dart would look good with my White Cuda.
 
I forgot you had that one under wraps. I had a chance to buy a 68 GTS, yellow with black stripe, 383 auto. I already had the 68 Formulas S 383 4 speed. The guy that owned the Dart GTS was in jail, and his brother was trying to sell me the car, so I passed. Should have bought it. The yellow Dart would look good with my White Cuda.
I'll have to get dad to pull it out over the weekend and get some good pictures for you.
 
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