Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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FWIW, I say stick with the suby and existing trailer, Cowboy. It's a slippery slope that gets imperceptibly steeper so it's best to not disturb the fragile balance of things. If you don't take my advice however, could we please have pictures? Thanks in advance.

I'd say that if I upgraded to an F350, the slippery slope would be rather more than imperceptible, more a vertical drop into awesomeness that may result in the extinction of a number of native tree species. It's worth considering.
 
I agree with kiwibro. best bang (burn?) for the buck must be a lone 50ish cc saw and 15-18ish inch bar, loading your current vehicle perhaps with a small trailer ad you have now, and hand splitting. the big toys cost silly amount for the home heating guy.

That's loser talk! Clearly, every scrounger needs a 90cc saw, plus a 70cc saw, plus a 45cc saw that has been monkeyed with. Plus a big trailer and ute. Etcetera.

This grey, yellow and red box that I'm scrounging in this area is 70km one way to get. Seems a long way for 1/3 cord per trip. But it has way superior BTUs from the sinking-in-water-when-dry perspective. In our house we have a beautiful open fireplace that smokes to buggery and is completely impractical. I am planning to put an insert into it that will heat the existing (gas-fired) hydronic system to heat the house and kids rooms overnight so the super-high BTU wood will be used for that next year. Right now, a decent ute with a 2+ cube trailer would be ideal for this. Woodchip's F350 would struggle to get out due to its length plus the fact that I have to pull my 7 x 4.5 ft trailer around by hand to reverse back to this wood. Don't think I can drag a dual axle trailer sideways.

Maybe I'll look at a Ford Ranga to pull the new trailer when I get it. Cowgirl's face says no. I'll have to come up with some way to make it worth her while. I dunno. Any ideas?
 
Not really. Its in the shop getting transmission cooler lines replaced right now but nothing major. I have it listed for $8K but I was throwing in the scroungers discount. :D
At 8k it probably would have sold before the end of the first day you had it listed around here.
 
That's loser talk! Clearly, every scrounger needs a 90cc saw, plus a 70cc saw, plus a 45cc saw that has been monkeyed with. Plus a big trailer and ute. Etcetera.

This grey, yellow and red box that I'm scrounging in this area is 70km one way to get. Seems a long way for 1/3 cord per trip. But it has way superior BTUs from the sinking-in-water-when-dry perspective. In our house we have a beautiful open fireplace that smokes to buggery and is completely impractical. I am planning to put an insert into it that will heat the existing (gas-fired) hydronic system to heat the house and kids rooms overnight so the super-high BTU wood will be used for that next year. Right now, a decent ute with a 2+ cube trailer would be ideal for this. Woodchip's F350 would struggle to get out due to its length plus the fact that I have to pull my 7 x 4.5 ft trailer around by hand to reverse back to this wood. Don't think I can drag a dual axle trailer sideways.

Maybe I'll look at a Ford Ranga to pull the new trailer when I get it. Cowgirl's face says no. I'll have to come up with some way to make it worth her while. I dunno. Any ideas?

My turbo diesel territory can tow 2.7 ton, it has the same motor As the land rover discovery, which weighs 2.8 ton and can tow 3.5 ton. I load 1/2 a cord of wood into my trailer and you can’t really feel the weight. If you don’t get permission to buy a Ute look at buying a diesel awd road car and you’d at least get the pulling power.
The other thing, when you buy a trailer pay the money and buy a galvanised one. I built mine in 1995 and got it hot dipped its stillas good as new. Trust me you won’t regret getting a gal trailer.
 
That's loser talk! Clearly, every scrounger needs a 90cc saw, plus a 70cc saw, plus a 45cc saw that has been monkeyed with. Plus a big trailer and ute. Etcetera.

This grey, yellow and red box that I'm scrounging in this area is 70km one way to get. Seems a long way for 1/3 cord per trip. But it has way superior BTUs from the sinking-in-water-when-dry perspective. In our house we have a beautiful open fireplace that smokes to buggery and is completely impractical. I am planning to put an insert into it that will heat the existing (gas-fired) hydronic system to heat the house and kids rooms overnight so the super-high BTU wood will be used for that next year. Right now, a decent ute with a 2+ cube trailer would be ideal for this. Woodchip's F350 would struggle to get out due to its length plus the fact that I have to pull my 7 x 4.5 ft trailer around by hand to reverse back to this wood. Don't think I can drag a dual axle trailer sideways.

Maybe I'll look at a Ford Ranga to pull the new trailer when I get it. Cowgirl's face says no. I'll have to come up with some way to make it worth her while. I dunno. Any ideas?
I was going to say the same thing! Plus, after you get done buying 20-30 new axes at $10 to $100 each, you could have bought a small hydro. I saw a cute ikle 7 ton gas splitter with a 2 stroke on it, at an auction. If it had of been a Homelite I would have stayed and bought it.
 
My turbo diesel territory can tow 2.7 ton, it has the same motor As the land rover discovery, which weighs 2.8 ton and can tow 3.5 ton. I load 1/2 a cord of wood into my trailer and you can’t really feel the weight. If you don’t get permission to buy a Ute look at buying a diesel awd road car and you’d at least get the pulling power.
The other thing, when you buy a trailer pay the money and buy a galvanised one. I built mine in 1995 and got it hot dipped its stillas good as new. Trust me you won’t regret getting a gal trailer.
or alugamum?
 
That's loser talk! Clearly, every scrounger needs a 90cc saw, plus a 70cc saw, plus a 45cc saw that has been monkeyed with. Plus a big trailer and ute. Etcetera.

This grey, yellow and red box that I'm scrounging in this area is 70km one way to get. Seems a long way for 1/3 cord per trip. But it has way superior BTUs from the sinking-in-water-when-dry perspective. In our house we have a beautiful open fireplace that smokes to buggery and is completely impractical. I am planning to put an insert into it that will heat the existing (gas-fired) hydronic system to heat the house and kids rooms overnight so the super-high BTU wood will be used for that next year. Right now, a decent ute with a 2+ cube trailer would be ideal for this. Woodchip's F350 would struggle to get out due to its length plus the fact that I have to pull my 7 x 4.5 ft trailer around by hand to reverse back to this wood. Don't think I can drag a dual axle trailer sideways.

Maybe I'll look at a Ford Ranga to pull the new trailer when I get it. Cowgirl's face says no. I'll have to come up with some way to make it worth her while. I dunno. Any ideas?

As men often the line between needs and wants gets blurred with respect to tools, toys, or implements.... I definitely created the "need" for a 70cc class saw because of a large blowdown and a budding interest in milling, ha ha...
 
To continue on the saga of my doggy Poulan 4218. I put another tank of fuel through it and it continues to run better. It is just slightly rich and cleans up as soon as it hits wood. I need to turn the idle up again though, which is strange. With the muffler mod it does have more grunt now and actually has good throttle response. I guess I can only postulate that although it was several years old, it was probably always the backup to the Husky 142 that came with it and must have been on it's first tank of gas when it was given to me as the piston looked brand new and the bar lettering was all present.

The trigger did stick once but I depressed it and it let off. And the AV is way too soft but I guess that beats the opposite.
 
You guys outside the rust belt are really spoiled.

I am hoping that I can get two more years out of my truck before the rust eats it away. Then I will steal the tommy lift and V plow to put on something else.

The 3/4 ton is great but rides rough compared to a half. Maybe a half ton long box with helper springs for occasional loads is the way to go.....
 
That would sure pull several ickle trailers sticky taped together. I had a look at the process for importing and registering a LHD vehicle and it's not pretty. How many miles?



Did you check to make sure they were using the grinders correctly? Good on you blokes for doing this. Of course, we'll need some more pics.

Hey @dancan ! I didn't forget you and your elbow. I'm not certain we have excluded the elbow joint as opposed to the common extensor origin at the lateral epicondyle but we can try something for the tendon and if that doesn't work we can revisit the joint. So, the lateral epicondyle is the pointy bit on the outside of the elbow that you hit as you walk through a doorway sometimes. The muscles that bend the wrist and fingers backwards (that movement is called extension) have a common tendon that attaches to this point which is just above the elbow joint. So these muscles cross both the elbow and the wrist joints. This is an important point for the exercise I'm going to suggest.

Now, tendon complaints, once they are past the initial inflammatory response of a few days up to a couple of weeks, respond best to what are called eccentric exercises. With muscle contractions, concentric is where the muscle is working and shortening - so in the case of your biceps, bending the elbow would be the result of a concentric bicep contraction. Isometric is where the muscle is working but not shortening or lengthening - think flexing in front of the mirror. Eccentric contractions are where the muscle is lengthening under load - a lowering contraction like when you are putting something down. Eccentric exercises work best for tendonitis. Now, these extensor muscles pass in front of the axis of rotation of the elbow so they help to bend the elbow when they contract, as well as bend the wrist back. When you make a fist, you will see the wrist bend backwards (which helps to keep the flexor muscles on the other side of the forearm at the optimum length for gripping). So the extensor muscles will be working when you make a fist and if you then straighten the elbow, they will be forced to lengthen under load - ie. the eccentric contraction. It will probably hurt a bit. Now, how hard you clench the fist will determine how much it hurts and we are wanting to produce about 2/10 pain where 0/10 is no pain and 10/10 pain is getting kicked in the scones by Jackie Chan wearing steelcaps.

Keep in mind that tendon rehab is a process of adaptation so it won't happen instantaneously. You will also benefit from going a bit easy on the elbow doing other things. In particular, lifting stuff with the palm facing down is asking for it as it will load up the tendon significantly, lifting palm up is likely to be ok.

In summary:
1. Clench fist as hard or gently as it takes to produce 2/10 pain
2. Smoothly straighten elbow from about 60 degrees to absolutely full extent. Remember, 2/10 pain
3. Do 10 times. Nice and smooth, no need to hold it at the end, should take about 20 secs to do the set
4. Do that 3-4 times per day.

Hopefully you will find that as days pass, you will need to clench the fist harder to produce the 2/10 pain. That means the tendon is strengthening up. If not much happens then it may mean that the joint is the problem and will need to address that.

Any questions?


Well , you lost me in the second paragraph but I'm sure glad you summed it up in the Cole's Notes Lol
I'll give it a go !
 
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