Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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The black lines are called, “Black Line Spalting”, common in Maples. It’s caused by a fungi. It is desirable to wood turners and carvers. Have seen beautiful pens, knife handles, Colt 1911 grips and tables made from it. I met a guy at a wood working show that “said”, he got almost a thousand knife handles out of a big Maple log and got between $4 and $10 a set for them on eBay.
Guys that build custom glass and slate turkey calls use lots of spalted maple also.
 
Picked up these loads on four different trips home after work. We had a hurricane come thru in July and these were all on the sides of the road, just had to cut some down to size at the house and will split when it cools off a bit here. All water oak and some live oak limbs.
 

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Hit a big rut and a piece of metal inside my trailer fender from an old repair punctured my tire. Bugger of it is that I had a 3 year road hazard warranty that expired last fall. Always works that way.

At least I’ve identified the issue and will grind that piece of bar out of the fender before I haul the trailer loaded again.

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who has a 365 x-torq swede? quick question if i may....and i trust i'll get one here rather than in the chainsaw forum...let's not go there.

When i got mine (2nd hand) it was audibly 4 stroking constantly at WOT (or so i thought) so a leaned it a fraction, only an 1/8th of a turn at most, and got it to the point it would go clean if i had the bar in 15" or more of hardwood and leaned on it....possibly still rich i thought but better safe than sorry. Then i read the manual.....its got an electronic rev limiter and bouncing off the limiter sounds the same as 4 stroking. hmm. previous owner ran 50:1 i think. Since i didn't have the husqy oil i'd followed he manual and gone 33:1 so I assume being more viscous it may have been leaner on that and actually the burble i heard was it bouncing off the limiter. reading the manual it says basically you won't tune by ear, use a tacho (don't have one) and well....i decided to set it back to stock to be safe...one turn out from fully clockwise right? so when i used the saw the other day i got the carb screwdriver out and without bothering to check closely where the H screw was set I wound it to the clockwise stop. then tried to wind it out a turn...ahh... poo....3/4 of a turn and I've hit a limit adjuster...ah. back to the manual and over the page is 'carb adjustment for saws fitted with adjustment limiters'. D'oh! basically it use a tacho and it doesn't say where 'stock is. carp. after listening to it burble madly at fully clockwise i went about 1/4 of a turn back in (which i think was close to where it was before) and got it sounding ok....waaahhhh burble burble burble, wahhhhh burble wahhh at WOT, going clean fairly easily in wood. So its currently at about 1/2 turn out from the lean/fully in stop, which is 1/4 turn in from the rich stop. Do we think I'm safe there? oh and I'm now running 40:1 using half husq XP and half stihl green.

i wish i'd read the maual and not assumed i knew what i was doing....i am still a newbie when it comes to spannering a saw!
 
View attachment 754130 View attachment 754129 Is this considering “punky” with the black markings inside the wood?

that patterning is called 'spalting' yes its caused by fungus and is the start of rot, but it is likelya long way from punky....to me pnky is when you poke your finger in it. even total punk will dry out and burn if you bother to split it and dry it...just doesn't give you much....use it as firelighter wood.
 
who has a 365 x-torq swede? quick question if i may....and i trust i'll get one here rather than in the chainsaw forum...let's not go there.

When i got mine (2nd hand) it was audibly 4 stroking constantly at WOT (or so i thought) so a leaned it a fraction, only an 1/8th of a turn at most, and got it to the point it would go clean if i had the bar in 15" or more of hardwood and leaned on it....possibly still rich i thought but better safe than sorry. Then i read the manual.....its got an electronic rev limiter and bouncing off the limiter sounds the same as 4 stroking. hmm. previous owner ran 50:1 i think. Since i didn't have the husqy oil i'd followed he manual and gone 33:1 so I assume being more viscous it may have been leaner on that and actually the burble i heard was it bouncing off the limiter. reading the manual it says basically you won't tune by ear, use a tacho (don't have one) and well....i decided to set it back to stock to be safe...one turn out from fully clockwise right? so when i used the saw the other day i got the carb screwdriver out and without bothering to check closely where the H screw was set I wound it to the clockwise stop. then tried to wind it out a turn...ahh... poo....3/4 of a turn and I've hit a limit adjuster...ah. back to the manual and over the page is 'carb adjustment for saws fitted with adjustment limiters'. D'oh! basically it use a tacho and it doesn't say where 'stock is. carp. after listening to it burble madly at fully clockwise i went about 1/4 of a turn back in (which i think was close to where it was before) and got it sounding ok....waaahhhh burble burble burble, wahhhhh burble wahhh at WOT, going clean fairly easily in wood. So its currently at about 1/2 turn out from the lean/fully in stop, which is 1/4 turn in from the rich stop. Do we think I'm safe there? oh and I'm now running 40:1 using half husq XP and half stihl green.

i wish i'd read the maual and not assumed i knew what i was doing....i am still a newbie when it comes to spannering a saw!

The easy answer is just tune it in wood. You won't hit 13k in the wood, so you can easily know it's 4-stroking if it sounds like 4-stroking. Tune the H so it burbles when you lift up on the saw, then cleans up when you reapply light pressure. You'll probably be able to stay within the limits of the limiters to do this, and if not, just trim/remove.

If you were running a more modified saw I might suggest just getting an unlimited coil (any from the 362/365/371/372/2065/2165/2071/2171 series will fit) and/or using a tach (the cheap $10 models with hour meter/tach and a wire for the spark plug actually work fine, I'm sure something similar is available for you), but I don't see the point in your case.

I overthought tuning a 372xt I had, then realized I could just notice how it sounded while cutting, adjust a couple times, and be confident it's fine. A tree service has had it for 3 years since then, I'm sure they've never tuned it once, and it's fine except for being dropped several times.

If in doubt, take a quick video and post it, we can easily let you know whether you're about to grenade the old girl (pretty unlikely).
 
View attachment 754294 View attachment 754297 I left yesterday with brush still laying around and came back to this. Scrounges that clean and cut them selves are great. There clearing to put in a play place for the kids. Theres truck loads of hickory. And some dead standing oak and cherry.
Usually all I get left with is the brush...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Got more work done on the Oak Bench today, would have done more but had a business appt tonight. Legs are fitted, but not attached yet.

A lot of work moving that heavy darn thing around and using the trailer as a dead man (to line it up with the Radial Arm saw). A lot of little adjustments to get the saw blade on your marks!
 

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who has a 365 x-torq swede? quick question if i may....and i trust i'll get one here rather than in the chainsaw forum...let's not go there.

When i got mine (2nd hand) it was audibly 4 stroking constantly at WOT (or so i thought) so a leaned it a fraction, only an 1/8th of a turn at most, and got it to the point it would go clean if i had the bar in 15" or more of hardwood and leaned on it....possibly still rich i thought but better safe than sorry. Then i read the manual.....its got an electronic rev limiter and bouncing off the limiter sounds the same as 4 stroking. hmm. previous owner ran 50:1 i think. Since i didn't have the husqy oil i'd followed he manual and gone 33:1 so I assume being more viscous it may have been leaner on that and actually the burble i heard was it bouncing off the limiter. reading the manual it says basically you won't tune by ear, use a tacho (don't have one) and well....i decided to set it back to stock to be safe...one turn out from fully clockwise right? so when i used the saw the other day i got the carb screwdriver out and without bothering to check closely where the H screw was set I wound it to the clockwise stop. then tried to wind it out a turn...ahh... poo....3/4 of a turn and I've hit a limit adjuster...ah. back to the manual and over the page is 'carb adjustment for saws fitted with adjustment limiters'. D'oh! basically it use a tacho and it doesn't say where 'stock is. carp. after listening to it burble madly at fully clockwise i went about 1/4 of a turn back in (which i think was close to where it was before) and got it sounding ok....waaahhhh burble burble burble, wahhhhh burble wahhh at WOT, going clean fairly easily in wood. So its currently at about 1/2 turn out from the lean/fully in stop, which is 1/4 turn in from the rich stop. Do we think I'm safe there? oh and I'm now running 40:1 using half husq XP and half stihl green.

i wish i'd read the maual and not assumed i knew what i was doing....i am still a newbie when it comes to spannering a saw!
As said by @Benjo tune it in wood is the short answer.
I'd adjust it as fat as it will go and then run it, then lean it a little, and lean it out until you can hear the difference between the rev limiter and 4-stroking.
With a tach you bring it up til you hit 13.2 and then ad another 1/8 of a turn it and call it good on a stock saw, but you can go farther on a ported saw.
If it's 4-stroking when your in a large cut with a sharp chain then it's too fat, lean it out a bit.
You're probably fine where it's at, stick it in some wood and you will find out. My guess is after you turned it in an 1.8 turn in the beginning you were probably fine. Most likely fully turned in during summer temps would be okay, in the coldest winter months it may be a little lean, but maybe not.
Set it how you like it then go to the dealer and see what they say :).
As was also said a mini tach is pretty cheap and will help if in doubt still.
Did I post these the other day, sorry if I did.
Two different XTorq 365's with the transfers opened up and a few other mods but no cylinder porting.
You gain around 5-10 degrees of advance with a stock limited coil(they don't mind even more advance) over the unlimited ones, that was the purpose of these videos, to show guys that you can have a great running limited saw with the protection from free revving the xt saws. It's not good to free rev them high like an oe can handle since they have a much heavier piston.
Limited saw with mods.

Unlimited saw.
 
As said by @Benjo tune it in wood is the short answer.
I'd adjust it as fat as it will go and then run it, then lean it a little, and lean it out until you can hear the difference between the rev limiter and 4-stroking.
With a tach you bring it up til you hit 13.2 and then ad another 1/8 of a turn it and call it good on a stock saw, but you can go farther on a ported saw.
If it's 4-stroking when your in a large cut with a sharp chain then it's too fat, lean it out a bit.
You're probably fine where it's at, stick it in some wood and you will find out. My guess is after you turned it in an 1.8 turn in the beginning you were probably fine. Most likely fully turned in during summer temps would be okay, in the coldest winter months it may be a little lean, but maybe not.
Set it how you like it then go to the dealer and see what they say :).
As was also said a mini tach is pretty cheap and will help if in doubt still.
Did I post these the other day, sorry if I did.
Two different XTorq 365's with the transfers opened up and a few other mods but no cylinder porting.
You gain around 5-10 degrees of advance with a stock limited coil(they don't mind even more advance) over the unlimited ones, that was the purpose of these videos, to show guys that you can have a great running limited saw with the protection from free revving the xt saws. It's not good to free rev them high like an oe can handle since they have a much heavier piston.
Limited saw with mods.

Unlimited saw.
To me its sounds like the limited saw is stronger then the the unlimited. Holding RPMs in the cut better.
I've noticed with the 7910 theres a distinct difference between tagging the limiter and 4 stroking. Saw seems to want to be above the limiter to run the best so I hear it all the time starting a new cut but it 4 strokes if you pick it up mid cut then catches the limiter again.
 
To me its sounds like the limited saw is stronger then the the unlimited. Holding RPMs in the cut better.
I've noticed with the 7910 theres a distinct difference between tagging the limiter and 4 stroking. Saw seems to want to be above the limiter to run the best so I hear it all the time starting a new cut but it 4 strokes if you pick it up mid cut then catches the limiter again.
Your right, and if you time the cuts there's a substantial difference if your into that sort of thing. I like to know what the simplest mods are that give the most gains.
Its easy to hear the 7910/7900, they have a great sound.
 
View attachment 754294 View attachment 754297 I left yesterday with brush still laying around and came back to this. Scrounges that clean and cut them selves are great. There clearing to put in a play place for the kids. Theres truck loads of hickory. And some dead standing oak and cherry.

That's a scrounger's wet dream right there. Disappointing that they didn't split it and load it in your truck as well, though ;) .

I have gradually worked my way through the 1.5 cord or so of black locust I picked up in April. Some of the smaller stuff I poked into my bonfire in May to hold up my diesel packets, some smaller stuff I burned in the firepit. The bigger stuff I debarked and split up and have been burning at night. Burning through the day was not good, there was so much ash that the coals would not burn down and I'd have to shovel out the heater every second day. But burning at night was better and given the extra time, the coals would burn down to a level that would work. So it has had a purpose which you can find for most firewood depending on its characteristics.

Here were the locust piles in April. In the pile in the (mostly hidden) far left is a pile of yellow box, peppermint, manna gum and some oak. Peppermint is stacked up in front of the woodshed.

14th Apr 3.jpg

Here's what I have left of the locust.

20th Aug 1.jpg

The bark has been good though. I have been keeping that and burning it in the firepit in bits and pieces which has been great. It gives a wonderful crackle which adds to the ambiance. You just need to be upwind because it smells like burning vomit.

I burned the peppermint, oak and manna gum from the far pile and stacked the yellow box in the near bay of the woodshed. So I have about 4 cord of heavier-than-water firewood in that bay now. :sweet:

20th Aug 2.jpg

I need to get out and scrounge some more. I can feel my manhood shrinking with all this time away from the saws. :crazy2:
 
View attachment 754294 View attachment 754297 I left yesterday with brush still laying around and came back to this. Scrounges that clean and cut them selves are great. There clearing to put in a play place for the kids. Theres truck loads of hickory. And some dead standing oak and cherry.
Good scrounge James.:sweet: How's the tranny holding up? Glad to see ya got the 250 in the pic and i don't mean the truck.:laughing:
 
Good scrounge James.:sweet: How's the tranny holding up? Glad to see ya got the 250 in the pic and i don't mean the truck.:laughing:
I put enough wood in the truck to level the truck out.20190819_143039.jpg Mostly stuff this size stacked the same back to the tailgate. Trans didn't like it at all. That loads in the back of a coworkers half ton now. Needless to say hes gona be stairing at the sky on the way home.
 
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