Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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U&A said:
A few 900’s around here but not a lot.

I appreciate the short chat with you fellas on HAM. Ill keep you on mind when im on the radio. Maybe we will chat one day


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
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There's an awesome 900 repeater on TOL, can hit it from almost detroit if propagation is good.

I can hit it from my house, which is over 30 miles away. It's WAY up there.
 
djg james said:
So to ask again, how many drive links would you remove? I'm guessing the tensioner post travels 1-1/4" so only one?
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I believe the consensus was you need to get a new bar, sprocket, and chains. Your drive links on the stretched chain are in horrible shape because your other components are worn out. If you put that chain on a new bar and sprocket it will cause premature wear on them as well.
 
djg james said:
So to ask again, how many drive links would you remove? I'm guessing the tensioner post travels 1-1/4" so only one?
Click to expand...
Just kink the chain enough to take one link out and see what it looks like.
But beware as I was saying before, I believe the chain that broke did so because it had mated with the other sprocket and when you changed it it stressed the chain.
svk said:
I believe the consensus was you need to get a new bar, sprocket, and chains. Your drive links on the stretched chain are in horrible shape because your other components are worn out. If you put that chain on a new bar and sprocket it will cause premature wear on them as well.
Click to expand...
That would be the best practice.
Yes the old chain will wear on the new components too.
 
svk said:
I believe the consensus was you need to get a new bar, sprocket, and chains. Your drive links on the stretched chain are in horrible shape because your other components are worn out. If you put that chain on a new bar and sprocket it will cause premature wear on them as well.
Click to expand...
chipper1 said:
Just kink the chain enough to take one link out and see what it looks like.
But beware as I was saying before, I believe the chain that broke did so because it had mated with the other sprocket and when you changed it it stressed the chain.

That would be the best practice.
Yes the old chain will wear on the new components too.
Click to expand...
True. Bicycle front sprockets & rear clusters can cost $50-$100 or more each. You learn real fast not to skimp out and save ~ $25 by using the old chain.
 
square1 said:
True. Bicycle front sprockets & rear clusters can cost $50-$100 or more each. You learn real fast not to skimp out and save ~ $25 by using the old chain.
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Now you tell me about my bike chain lol.
Looks like a gorgeous day here today.
Have a great day neighbor.
 
Got a helmet yesterday. I now have the proper PPE for when I'm down in the woods by myself. Well, anytime I'm running a saw in the woods.

Decided to stick with .325 on the binford 254. Going to snag a Tsumara 18" LW bar and get chain from my favorite local dealer.
 
muad said:
Got a helmet yesterday. I now have the proper PPE for when I'm down in the woods by myself. Well, anytime I'm running a saw in the woods.

Decided to stick with .325 on the binford 254. Going to snag a Tsumara 18" LW bar and get chain from my favorite local dealer.
Click to expand...
Can you post details of the bar please. Didn't realise tsumura did a light and tough version in 18", only solid or laminated. I've never met a laminated I've liked, including tsumura.
 
KiwiBro said:
Can you post details of the bar please. Didn't realise tsumura did a light and tough version in 18", only solid or laminated. I've never met a laminated I've liked, including tsumura.
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Well, I swear I was looking at a K095 18" LW .325/.50/72DL bar from them a week or so ago, as I was torn between that and their 20" LW 3/8/.50/72DL. After talking with Kevin and my trusted dealer, I was leaning hard towards the .325.

I've never used a laminated bar. This is my "play" saw, so I figured I'd try one on it.

Will let you know if I find it again.
 
muad said:
Well, I swear I was looking at a K095 18" LW .325/.50/72DL bar from them a week or so ago, as I was torn between that and their 20" LW 3/8/.50/72DL. After talking with Kevin and my trusted dealer, I was leaning hard towards the .325.

I've never used a laminated bar. This is my "play" saw, so I figured I'd try one on it.

Will let you know if I find it again.
Click to expand...
Got one on my 550..
20200601_094415 (2).jpg
 
Thanks. The .063 guage commonly used here is what's complicating it for me. Have been wondering if I should go to .050 instead for awhile now.

Is anyone using .050 on >30” bars? I'm wondering if it'll not drag as much oil as I'd like on longer bars like, say 36 or 42”.
 
muad said:
18" .325/.50???

I'm like 99.99% sure I had one pulled up in my tabs, but cannot find it. Searched ArcherPlus on eBay and looked on Amazon... nothing.

Maybe it's a sign that I just need to switch to 3/8...
Click to expand...
I still (respectfully) think you are making a mistake with .325.

Do you have a certain dealer in mind? I’m looking at Total bars on clearance on EBay at the moment.
 
svk said:
I still (respectfully) think you are making a mistake with .325.

Do you have a certain dealer in mind? I’m looking at Total bars on clearance on EBay at the moment.
Click to expand...

Trust me, it's been a struggle for me. The consensus seems to be that the .325 will allow me to keep my RPMs up, where the 3/8 will make her lug more. Just looking for the "fastest" option. She screams with the 16" .325 right now.
 
I might get both, and see which I like better. Would have to swap drive gear, but it might be worth the $ spent. We're not talking a huge amount of money. I'm sure if I didn't like the 3/8 20", I could move it.

The biggest pro to going 20" 3/8 is that I can use all the chains I have now (which, I probably have 8-10 20" Stihl 3/8 chains.
 

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