Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Nate, sorry to see your troubles with the 462 ... I love them saws!

Is oil seeping through the crack?

I think to strengthen the case I would pull that stud and put it back in with something permanent like PL Premium or Epoxy.
Thanks Mike. Ok, didn’t think about that, I’ll give that a try. Not a lot but yes it is leaking some bar oil. Was wondering about trying to groove crack out and fill with epoxy or something like JB weld? I really like these saws as well!
 
@Logger nate , bummer about the case, I should look at mine as it came from out west and probably was run with a longer bar because the guy logged with it . That is the most common problem I've seen with them, but it's the only problem I've seen on multiple units so all in all that's pretty good, too bad it's not easier to replace.
It there a crack on the other side of the stud going down at a similar angle.
I would contact stihl and see what they have to say about it, maybe they will come up with a better case half like they did with the husky 371 that had more gussets in in.

That chicken coop of your sons is sweet, does he already have a bunch of chickens.
Been working on ours when it's not raining, it seems every time I wanted to get on it this week it would start raining, yesterday was my first full day, and Friday I got a nice bit of time on it too bending the poles.
I cleared the dirt back from the poles on the outside to bring the fence out on the ground a bit so the coons done dig under it. All that topsoil I added to an area behind the coop that I tilled up earlier this spring for the first time for my wife, I'm trying to level it out a bit, if I have any extra materials I'll fence it in and use the back side of the coop for one of the walls. Last night I ran to HD for some quickcrete and put two of the 4 poles in that the ends of the fence will be attached to. I have a 6'x7' tall gate/door I'm installing on the end to access the run, it's big enough to get either tractor in and clean up or dump fresh gravel. If the woodshed gets any fuller I'll need to put some roofing material on it and I could park another tractor in there, got any metal left over :laughing:.
Made in china. I used a friends pipe cutter and bender, he threw the post driver in there too, good thing a friend gave me one he built a few yrs back.
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Thanks Brett. I didn’t notice any other cracks. Sthil dealer here isn’t very good but I should talk to them and see what they say. Yeah sure is a bummer great saw otherwise. Seems like I read something about an updated case for them but not sure. Want to buy a saw? Lol.
Yeah think my son has around 50 chickens, moved them in Thursday. That’s a very nice coop/ run your building! My son is covering part of their run too but can’t quite park a tractor in there, lol. Yep come on over he has extra tin, 4000 sq ft blew off the hanger at the airport, might have a few dents/ holes, lol.
 
People still dropping stuff off every day ... new ones plus addl info to finish stuff in process. If the Gov gives you more time, people will take it! Pissed that I'm basically loosing another month of Summer this year after losing 3 months last year!

It is just buy enough to keep you from doing most things you would like to be doing, and the deadline is close!

It is not easy to transition from working on a dirty saw to doing paperwork!
I think that's why it's called work, and not fun.
That being said I hope you can get things done and not have to be as concerned with it shortly here so you can get on with the fun things.
Made by Loctite ... it is a construction adhesive that has lots of uses.

As one of my Carpenter friends told me ... Once you start using it instead of glue, you won't use glue any more!
I do know what that is, ironically I've never used it. Guess I need to buy some and see what all I can use it on lol. I used to use gorilla glue on a lot of things when I worked on cars more, that was back before they added about 20 different products, so it's been a while.
 
Thanks Brett. I didn’t notice any other cracks. Sthil dealer here isn’t very good but I should talk to them and see what they say. Yeah sure is a bummer great saw otherwise. Seems like I read something about an updated case for them but not sure. Want to buy a saw? Lol.
Yeah think my son has around 50 chickens, moved them in Thursday. That’s a very nice coop/ run your building! My son is covering part of their run too but can’t quite park a tractor in there, lol. Yep come on over he has extra tin, 4000 sq ft blew off the hanger at the airport, might have a few dents/ holes, lol.
I'd look at it closely. The way it's cracking it looks as though it's cracking directly down from the stud, not in the direction of the crack, as though the bar is acting as a lever on the front stud pivoting off the back. If the front is cracked, the back isn't far behind or is also cracked, but not opened as far, which would make sense since it's further up the lever arm(the bar).
If it's making you money and it's lighter than the comparable husky offering, then what's a few hundred bucks to repair it I guess. If you get a new case when you remove this one you could bake the oil off it and then have it welded properly and then powder coated to have as a spare, but if they made a better quality updated case that's probably going to be better and a cheaper option. I would sell it needing the repair(being open about it) and just buy a new one. Unfortunately I don't think epoxy will be able to fix it long term. You need to find the end of the crack and drill it to prevent it from traveling any further, grind it out, clean it very well, and then fill it with epoxy for the best results.
This is the epoxy I prefer, it was developed for machining and it is very hard and oil will not be a problem for it.
I've never seen this particular one for this cheap, and all the other listings are more expensive(by a good bit) that I saw.
Screen Shot 2021-05-09 at 11.27.21 AM.png

This one has a higher concentration of titanium, the one above has titanium too.
Screen Shot 2021-05-09 at 11.24.36 AM.png


I'm always interested in buying saws, got any huskys you're selling :p.
How does the 562 compare to the 462, close?
Back in the day I had a few Mazda 323's, the radiator would leak on the top which was plastic, I would use a similar product called liquid steel, it worked great and held the pressure no problem. Sometimes a "quick" fix works :).
 
Sure hope this isn’t a common problem with the 462View attachment 905739might have to go back to the heavy husky. Case half has already been replaced once because of this. Previous owner ran 32” bar and might have been heavy handed with bar wrench (clutch cover was cracked too) but I run a 28” and use a short handle bar wrench and try to be gentle. It is possible case was cracked when I got it but I didn’t notice it. JB weld?
Guess I'm gonna have to look at mine. I am a little heavy on the bar nuts but only because I had one come loose and threw a chain. Haven't run anything longer than a 20 inch bar on mine. It does get a lot of noodling action.
 
I'd look at it closely. The way it's cracking it looks as though it's cracking directly down from the stud, not in the direction of the crack, as though the bar is acting as a lever on the front stud pivoting off the back. If the front is cracked, the back isn't far behind or is also cracked, but not opened as far, which would make sense since it's further up the lever arm(the bar).
If it's making you money and it's lighter than the comparable husky offering, then what's a few hundred bucks to repair it I guess. If you get a new case when you remove this one you could bake the oil off it and then have it welded properly and then powder coated to have as a spare, but if they made a better quality updated case that's probably going to be better and a cheaper option. I would sell it needing the repair(being open about it) and just buy a new one. Unfortunately I don't think epoxy will be able to fix it long term. You need to find the end of the crack and drill it to prevent it from traveling any further, grind it out, clean it very well, and then fill it with epoxy for the best results.
This is the epoxy I prefer, it was developed for machining and it is very hard and oil will not be a problem for it.
I've never seen this particular one for this cheap, and all the other listings are more expensive(by a good bit) that I saw.
View attachment 905911

This one has a higher concentration of titanium, the one above has titanium too.
View attachment 905912


I'm always interested in buying saws, got any huskys you're selling :p.
How does the 562 compare to the 462, close?

Back in the day I had a few Mazda 323's, the radiator would leak on the top which was plastic, I would use a similar product called liquid steel, it worked great and held the pressure no problem. Sometimes a "quick" fix works :).
Thanks Brett, I’ll look into that. Wondered about epoxying bar plate to case also but would make it hard to work on later if needed. I really like the saw (especially weight) and it makes me money but already cost more than 572 and if I have to replace cases not sure it’s worth it next time around, then there’s those flippy caps..lol. 462 stock muffler modded is very close to the ported 562 I had (power, weight, throttle response) never ran a stock 562. Might be a good option, about $300 less even after being ported but 562 does struggle more in bigger wood.
 
Guess I'm gonna have to look at mine. I am a little heavy on the bar nuts but only because I had one come loose and threw a chain. Haven't run anything longer than a 20 inch bar on mine. It does get a lot of noodling action.
Hopefully yours is fine, I’ve read that it’s mostly the R models that have the issue for some reason. Same with 661R sounds like.
 
I'd look at it closely. The way it's cracking it looks as though it's cracking directly down from the stud, not in the direction of the crack, as though the bar is acting as a lever on the front stud pivoting off the back. If the front is cracked, the back isn't far behind or is also cracked, but not opened as far, which would make sense since it's further up the lever arm(the bar).
If it's making you money and it's lighter than the comparable husky offering, then what's a few hundred bucks to repair it I guess. If you get a new case when you remove this one you could bake the oil off it and then have it welded properly and then powder coated to have as a spare, but if they made a better quality updated case that's probably going to be better and a cheaper option. I would sell it needing the repair(being open about it) and just buy a new one. Unfortunately I don't think epoxy will be able to fix it long term. You need to find the end of the crack and drill it to prevent it from traveling any further, grind it out, clean it very well, and then fill it with epoxy for the best results.
This is the epoxy I prefer, it was developed for machining and it is very hard and oil will not be a problem for it.
I've never seen this particular one for this cheap, and all the other listings are more expensive(by a good bit) that I saw.
View attachment 905911

This one has a higher concentration of titanium, the one above has titanium too.
View attachment 905912


I'm always interested in buying saws, got any huskys you're selling :p.
How does the 562 compare to the 462, close?

Back in the day I had a few Mazda 323's, the radiator would leak on the top which was plastic, I would use a similar product called liquid steel, it worked great and held the pressure no problem. Sometimes a "quick" fix works :).
Used devcon and belzona quite a bit at the machine shop for lower (liner o ring area in block) repairs on cat engines, pretty tough stuff, but had to be very clean to work properly.
 
Used deacon and belzona quite a bit at the machine shop for lower (liner o ring area in block) repairs on cat engines, pretty tough stuff, but had to be very clean to work properly.
Yep, very good, guys like it for gun work too.
Figuring spellcheck got you on devcon, but a deacon can help fix many things if he's a "good" one lol.
Edit; forgot to ask, how did you clean them, hot pressure washer/steam?
 
Thanks Brett, I’ll look into that. Wondered about epoxying bar plate to case also but would make it hard to work on later if needed. I really like the saw (especially weight) and it makes me money but already cost more than 572 and if I have to replace cases not sure it’s worth it next time around, then there’s those flippy caps..lol. 462 stock muffler modded is very close to the ported 562 I had (power, weight, throttle response) never ran a stock 562. Might be a good option, about $300 less even after being ported but 562 does struggle more in bigger wood.
Well if you can get a yr out of them and then pass them on for half of the new cost, that's not the worse thing that can happen if you really like them. Maybe you can get the boss to buy you one or chip in a few hundred a yr for saw money, then you'd only be out a couple hundred a yr. Yeah those flippies :rare2:. On that job I just finished I filled my ms200 up about 3/4 full because I knew I didn't have much to cut and figured it would be a little lighter for the fat old guy(me), grabbed it after filling and felt something, dang oil cap wasn't in the grove and fell out :nofunny:. The good thing is somehow I didn't spill any oil on their drive, or on myself :). I figured the 562 ported would be close, sure after running a ported one and a 462 you wouldn't want a stock/muffler modded one. Maybe you just need a fat 572 :p. I'm curious to see the new offering on that platform:chainsaw:, more power and the same weight and you know it will be a winner, as long as it holds together lol.
 
Cut up most of what was left on the trailer. Left one 6' long maple log for a future chainsaw carvin' project. And if it doesn't work out I'll turn it into firewood and no one will be the wiser.

Completed 2 loads before I got the camera and then 3 loads with the star of the show (wheelbarrow) including a couple of cameo appearances (Fiskars splitting ax).
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PL Premium works great on plastic and magnesium, but is not meant to be immersed in gas/oil.

Also works great on metal, I fixed my file cabinet with it. Sand metal, than dampen before using. It glued the hanger for the roller on the file cabinet just fine!

Make sure you clamp things, it expands a bit when drying.

I fixed this MS 460 for a local tree guy 2 1/2 years ago and it is still in service. I had a broken case and cut the corner off of it.
 

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Got the couple of lake logs and beaver wood split and hauled today. Heavy and full of water but this stuff dries really fast. The stuff I split last fall is almost ready to burn. Used the Zogger SSA.
View attachment 905941

The late Kiwibro (may he scrounge in peace) had a theory about drenching green wood in a river to help it dry out. I get the idea, trying to leach out wood flavoured moisture with water in the same way that washing your hands multiple times in succession dries out your skin. I haven't tried it myself as I don't have a river on my property, but it seems plausible.
 
The late Kiwibro (may he scrounge in peace) had a theory about drenching green wood in a river to help it dry out. I get the idea, trying to leach out wood flavoured moisture with water in the same way that washing your hands multiple times in succession dries out your skin. I haven't tried it myself as I don't have a river on my property, but it seems plausible.
I did not realize Kiwi passed away, when did that happen?
 
Yep, very good, guys like it for gun work too.
Figuring spellcheck got you on devcon, but a deacon can help fix many things if he's a "good" one lol.
Edit; forgot to ask, how did you clean them, hot pressure washer/steam?
Hot tank or the mart, if the block was at the shop. If it was an in frame repair, lots and lots of brake clean and rags. And yes good catch, I meant devcon lol.
Here's a pic of the mart. Think dish washer on steroids.
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Thats a qsk60 cummins crank set up in it. Big v12 diesel. Worked a treat. Just hose them off when they come out from it.
 

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