Seeking advice - cutting through hard-to-roll logs on the ground

[Chris Cringle]

I am harvesting some mature Northern Red Oak blowdowns. I’m having trouble figuring out the best way to cut through some heavy sections that are 1) laying flat on the ground, and 2) have robust forks in them, amounting to significant eccentrics on an otherwise near-uniform cylinder, making them, so far, impossible for me to roll and cut from both sides. I am working pretty much alone. Haven’t been able to move this particular one with peavey or cantt hook. Have not been able to lever&fulcrum it upward to kick a block under it. Can’t bring a vehicle close in order to pull it into another position. Don’t own a block and tackle or log cart. My objective is to harvest the wood without getting my saw in the dirt. Am considering using an e-tool to scoop a small tunnel under it in a couple spots, allowing me to cut through and reduce it to manageable pieces. Have not tried levering under a partial cut, see if it will flex up enough; may do that next.

I’m an American, so giving up and walking away is not going to happen. Thanks in advance. Chris

 

[wej52]

A suggestion, get a plastic wedge and when you have cut down about halfway, drive the wedge in and it will keep the log from pinching on you. You can also clean out under the log and then keep your chain out of the dirt. w. jones

 

[John Ellison]

When you get close, whack your wedge up tight. Maybe use two wedges. Some logs will lift a little. Alternate hits and get them tight. Then just cut with the tip of the bar and watch for the color of the sawdust to change. You have to cut slow and even.

 

[turnkey4099]

As long as they are not laying on rocky ground, I cut down until ALMOST through and then baby the throttle until teh chain is just barely turning to finish the cut. Usually will not significantly dull the chain.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Crosscut as far as you can, then noodle in place.

 

[alleyyooper]

Use steel wedges once your with in a inch of the ground many times the still will not give like plastic and with finish up the cut by breaking what is left. You can also do a split with steel wedged to make the logs lighter and easier to roll.

My dad and uncle used that method to make big logs into small hunks they could life on thr buzz saw table.

Al

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I have yet to find a log I could not move. They only need to be moved two to four inches up that is. If you are working with Oak save some of the stright limbs to make wedges. Yes you need some small wedges to drive on the top of the log when completing the cut. If the log is laying in the dirt it will need to be raised a little. My standard approach is to make four 20'' to 30'' wedges starting out at about 1'' going to about 6''. Drive the wedges with a sledge hammer from each side thus raising the log enough to keep the chain out of the dirt. If it is really difficult then two bottle jacks can be used from opposing sides to raise it enough to put some wedges or beams under it. I really dislike intentionally running a good chain into the ground. I can sharpen them OK but I really do not like to sit arround to sharpen a chain. Thanks

 

[Chris Cringle]

Thank you all, the comments were helpful.

 

[svk]

What the other guys said, or if you are impatient like me, do all of your bucking cuts down to the point where your bar is ALMOST touching the ground. Then go back and do each of the finishing cuts, just nibbling away with the log until you see one side sag a bit when they separate. If you do end up nicking something you probably can finish the project with that chain because you have very little to cut on each round.

 

[Jere39]

I cut much the same way, and live here on a very rocky hill top. I've dulled chains several times thinking I could feather the throttle and just cut those last couple sixteenths of an inch. Often only a couple cutters are dulled, but that makes for some curving in the next cuts. Most of the time I can find a place every 12' or so to cut thru with the aid of felling wedges, then use the cant hook to roll that 12' section over and cut the last inch through. When desperate, I have taken a shovel and opened a trench under the log every 10-16' and do the same. Good luck.

 

[Iaff113]

Just got done doing this today, I cut almost all the way down on the entire log. Change to my stump chain and cut them the entire way through. Don’t really care if I bury it in the dirt with that chain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sb47]

Thats why you save old bars and chains that you can use at the end of the cut. Cut as far as you dare then switch to your junk bar chain combo plus use a wedge to keep the log from pinching. I use plastic wedges or cut some wedges out of wood to keep it from pinching the bar at the end of the cut.
I sometime use a come along to and attach it to a near by tree to move the log just enough to finish the final cut. saving old bars and chains are perfect for jobs like this. Or dig a trench next to the cut and use an old car jack to lift it up just enough to finish the final cut. there are many ways to finish the final cut.

 

[Brownthumb]

My kid went thru 7 chains in a day. I was not home.
I knew he was cleaning up downed pine trees.
Im like WTF. Says he was sod all day.

 

[NSMaple1]

Wedges are requirement number 1. I would/do only use plastic. Contact with a moving chain is only a matter of time. And they don't compress.

 

[sb47]

Wedges are requirement number 1. I would/do only use plastic. Contact with a moving chain is only a matter of time. And they don't compress.

I have accidentally cute into several plastic wedge's on accusation and they are pretty tuff don't wreck a chain at all. In fact they cut easier the the wood.If I don't have one on hand, I will cut one out of wood. I only use steel wedges for felling where you may have to beat on the very hard. When you cut a log on the ground, all you need is a spacer to keep the gap open so it Doesn't pinch your bar. I have even used a stick that fits the gap to keep it open.
I watch the color of the chips to let me know when I can see I'm getting to the sap wood. Depending on the situation I slow the chain speed and use the tip till it get real close.Then I drive the wedges deeper to open the gap up some more . If it long enough, I'll do all mt top cuts fires, so when I get it flipped over , I only do it once.
But as I said before, if you have a sacrifice bar and chain, you can make the last cuts without turning it over. Most of use have old chains and bars the are about worn out, so cut most of it with the good chain, the switch to the junk chain. As someone suggested, digging a trench under the cut will work.
Just make sure the tree is not under tension or bad things can happen.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Thats why you save old bars and chains that you can use at the end of the cut. Cut as far as you dare then switch to your junk bar chain combo plus use a wedge to keep the log from pinching. I use plastic wedges or cut some wedges out of wood to keep it from pinching the bar at the end of the cut.
I sometime use a come along to and attach it to a near by tree to move the log just enough to finish the final cut. saving old bars and chains are perfect for jobs like this. Or dig a trench next to the cut and use an old car jack to lift it up just enough to finish the final cut. there are many ways to finish the final cut.

Better yet, have a spare saw with an old bar and chain. Cutting problem and CAD appeased at the same time.

 

[sb47]

Better yet, have a spare saw with an old bar and chain. Cutting problem and CAD appeased at the same time.

Whay have an extra powerhead when an old bar and chain, most people already have. It only takes a few min to swap bars.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Whay have an extra powerhead when an old bar and chain, most people already have. It only takes a few min to swap bars.

Cause it gives you the opportunity to acquire another saw, hence the reference to CAD. It's a joke.

 

[turnkey4099]

Whay have an extra powerhead when an old bar and chain, most people already have. It only takes a few min to swap bars.

Except I hate to shut down even it if is only for a minute or two. I usually have at least 3 saws with me and push comes to shove the limbing saw finishes the cut.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

How will you handle the rounds once cut?