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Shaver Improvement Forum

John D

John D

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I was going to home make something along the lines of this reclaimer. Not sure what I stand to gain yet,but it will be something I try this summer,not now.With the flames I often have shooting out my stack,I know there is a ton of heat going out,wesp when the boilers firing with the blower on,even idling Id think theres some heat to capture.

http://timberwolfstoves.com/reclaimer_brochure.pdf
 
ShaverFurnace

ShaverFurnace

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First picture of improved furnace

Hi!

Here is the first picture of the improved furnace.

Grommets are now being used instead of silicone, front and back and at the overflow, for a much neater application and appearance.

The new thermostat is a big improvement, as you know.

A solenoid activated fan is in the works. It takes a different flange.

A sticker now tells people to seal the top plate (because not many people read the manual).

More coming...

Best regards,

Ben
 
ngzcaz

ngzcaz

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Better yet, since this forum was a catalyst for an improved furnace, how about some of those upgrades gratis to the contributors of this forum especially an improved thermostat ? Mine fluctuates as much as 30 degrees before the fan comes on. Shaver received a wealth of information/criticism and even some praise from these discussions. And we, the owners, have been putting up with and modifying issues that a customer shouldn't have had to deal with. Apparently 30 years ago no one cared. But this is 2009 and these things still arent what they should be and the technology for improvement existed for a couple of decades. I'm not just talking about Shaver, none of the manufacturers took the bull by the horn the way they should have. At least Shaver isnt having some of the stainless problems some other manufacturers are dealing with.

I'm gratified to see some of see improvements incorporated by Shaver. The one issue that no one seemed to argue was that the basics of the stove were sound. It was because some of these things were so ridiculously simple to rectify made us scratch our collective heads. At the VERY least, an option to purchase ( if possible ) at a discounted rate the improvements that were touted by this forum.


:angrysoapbox:
 
fify59thatsit

fify59thatsit

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circulate

I really hate to see those heat waves rolling out of the stack on my furnace:angry2: I'd rather have those BTU's coming in the house. So here's an idea for you guys to think about, shoot down, etc. I thought about wrapping/coiling flexible copper tubing around the stack; one end of the pipe down into the bottom of the water jacket (suction end), the other end just dumping in the top; small circulator pump to keep the water moving. Wrap insulation around the stack. Since my furnace is under an overhang, if I started where the stack exits the jacket, and stopped at the underside of the overhang, I could have copper tubing around about 3' of the hottest part of the stack; about 50' of tubing. Nothing exposed to rain, snow, etc. Seems like I'd get significant heat transfer. Enough to make it worthwhile? Enough to cause creosote problems from a cooler stack? Any thoughts?
I truly believe using a pump to circulate the water from the front of the
water jacket to the back would yield lots more btu's for the house.
That skinny 5" chamber behind the firebox from which hot water is drawn from and pumped back to is closed off from a good deal of the total volume of water in the boiler.A few slots or holes in that back piece of plate would be easy [allowing more circulation] to do when the boilers are fabricated and also a longer return pipe going farther to the front of the boiler .Then maybe another pump would not be needed? It might also stop that boiling noise sometimes heard at the front of the boiler if the water was better stirred up.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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I truly believe using a pump to circulate the water from the front of the
water jacket to the back would yield lots more btu's for the house.
That skinny 5" chamber behind the firebox from which hot water is drawn from and pumped back to is closed off from a good deal of the total volume of water in the boiler.A few slots or holes in that back piece of plate would be easy [allowing more circulation] to do when the boilers are fabricated and also a longer return pipe going farther to the front of the boiler .Then maybe another pump would not be needed? It might also stop that boiling noise sometimes heard at the front of the boiler if the water was better stirred up.
You read my mind! I plan to pull my water from the top port in the rear of the boiler and run a pipe along the top to the front, where I will drill a hole in the top and weld in a flange. My returning water will be forced onto the hottest part of the boiler. I would like to weld the cover in the back shut too, because it's a pain in the ass. My cover is very warped, I'm missing the center tab of steel on the water jacket, and there is barely enough lip to seal. If I didn't have the water coil, I'd weld the cover up, and either cap the vent on the side, or 90* it and run a hard line up above the top of the water jacket. I bet I'd fit 20 gallons more water in there. Maybe I'll junk the coil and do it, I haven't hooked the coil up yet anyway.
 
fify59thatsit

fify59thatsit

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You read my mind! I plan to pull my water from the top port in the rear of the boiler and run a pipe along the top to the front, where I will drill a hole in the top and weld in a flange. My returning water will be forced onto the hottest part of the boiler. I would like to weld the cover in the back shut too, because it's a pain in the ass. My cover is very warped, I'm missing the center tab of steel on the water jacket, and there is barely enough lip to seal. If I didn't have the water coil, I'd weld the cover up, and either cap the vent on the side, or 90* it and run a hard line up above the top of the water jacket. I bet I'd fit 20 gallons more water in there. Maybe I'll junk the coil and do it, I haven't hooked the coil up yet anyway.[/QUOTE\\

I refuse to go through another winter with that water steaming, water leaking excuse for a bad word I can't say right now.
Plant managers in China can get shot for shoddy workmanship like that.
I plan to do something to help with circulation over the summer, the extra twenty gal. water sounds like a plan.I may move the intake for the pump up a little higher.Up closer to the hotter water.
 
John D

John D

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I will def be running a water return to the front bottom as well this summer.When loading you can hear the water simmering above the front of the firebox with 175 degree water.That tells you the circulation is poor in that area.Id like another 20 gallons of water capacity as well,but I dont think im ready to weld the cover,its given me zero trouble,so im not going to fix what isnt broken,besides i like being able to access inside the water box,even if its just to see what it looks like,and what extent it is rusting if at all.
I am almost thinking of just building a OWB like i was going to initially. It may not be done by next winter,but ill have the shaver still,so no worrys. This time I will build it w 400 gallons minimum water,and a much wider,taller firebox.The length is fine,also the door needs to be 2ftx2 ft minimum.If time permits,I would love to build one. Im thinking a 1000 gal propane cylinder would be the perfect inside cylinder at 42",if I cut one in 1/2,it would be 6ft long ,42" around.I'd have enough for 2 units.Weld a neck on it,and it would take 70" logs,and be 20% wider and taller.Build a water jacket around it,4 full sheets of 4x8 steel for the box,and another partial for the rear,and with proper insulation,I should be able to get 24 hr burn times,and decent recovery.A propane cylinder should easily hold up since it was built to handle 250psi and 650 degrees.
 
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fify59thatsit

fify59thatsit

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lp tanks

I believe propane tanks have the thickness of the tank on a label. Some times the ends are thicker than the body.
Are you going to use some type of log lift for wood that big?
 
John D

John D

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I believe propane tanks have the thickness of the tank on a label. Some times the ends are thicker than the body.
Are you going to use some type of log lift for wood that big?
No log lift,just throw in bunch of wood.Only time I leave stuff full length now is if its real small. Im only loading 24-30" deep now in a 50" firebox.I want the long firebox more for water capacity,and heat exchange area,and to have for long days when i cant get to the OWB more than once a day.
 
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fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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Hi!

Here is the first picture of the improved furnace.

Grommets are now being used instead of silicone, front and back and at the overflow, for a much neater application and appearance.

The new thermostat is a big improvement, as you know.

A solenoid activated fan is in the works. It takes a different flange.

A sticker now tells people to seal the top plate (because not many people read the manual).

More coming...

Best regards,

Ben
What do you do with the Ranco probe? Did you make provisions for a dry well?
 
ShaverFurnace

ShaverFurnace

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Ranco probe positioning

What do you do with the Ranco probe? Did you make provisions for a dry well?

Hi Steve,

The probe sits in a dry well - with dialectric grease - for a more accurate reading.

However, it is my understanding that it can sit right in the water.

Best regards,

Ben
 
ShaverFurnace

ShaverFurnace

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A nicer look

Here are some more pictures. Nothing that was mentioned here but it gives the Shaver a nicer, more finished look.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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Here are some more pictures. Nothing that was mentioned here but it gives the Shaver a nicer, more finished look.
It's getting there, now you need a better light, a rear cover with rubber gasket that is bolted in place, put a 90* on the overflow tube, add the damper mod, insulate the firebox door, include the chimney adapter (or use standard 6" pipe), and add more insulation to the boiler in general (including the bottom).
 
projectsho89

projectsho89

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It's getting there, now you need a better light, a rear cover with rubber gasket that is bolted in place, put a 90* on the overflow tube, add the damper mod, insulate the firebox door, include the chimney adapter (or use standard 6" pipe), and add more insulation to the boiler in general (including the bottom).
Why don't you go ahead and put a latch on the rear door while you're at it.

Steve
 
fify59thatsit

fify59thatsit

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return water

You read my mind! I plan to pull my water from the top port in the rear of the boiler and run a pipe along the top to the front, where I will drill a hole in the top and weld in a flange. My returning water will be forced onto the hottest part of the boiler. I would like to weld the cover in the back shut too, because it's a pain in the ass. My cover is very warped, I'm missing the center tab of steel on the water jacket, and there is barely enough lip to seal. If I didn't have the water coil, I'd weld the cover up, and either cap the vent on the side, or 90* it and run a hard line up above the top of the water jacket. I bet I'd fit 20 gallons more water in there. Maybe I'll junk the coil and do it, I haven't hooked the coil up yet anyway.
I piped my return line to the front and on top of the boiler using some galv. pipe today.
The boiler temp was hard to keep under 200*before, now around 175*to 180* with hotter air out of the registers.
I can't say this will help anybody else but so far I like it.
 
John D

John D

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I piped my return line to the front and on top of the boiler using some galv. pipe today.
The boiler temp was hard to keep under 200*before, now around 175*to 180* with hotter air out of the registers.
I can't say this will help anybody else but so far I like it.
Very nice! Without changing your OWB temp settings is your water temp coming out of the OWB hotter now?How is it hard to keep temps under 200? Do you still have the stock air door,and blower setup? Most guys here complain they cant get it hot enough due to poor insulation.I have no trouble keeping mine hot either,since my blower mods.I hear water sizzling above the door whenever i load the OWB,ill peak around back,and temp is 178 or so at the back.top where Ive got my copper tube for the temp picup on the Ranco.So your returning water to the front top? I want to run mine to the front,and bottom.Does yours sizzle when your loading it?
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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I piped my return line to the front and on top of the boiler using some galv. pipe today.
The boiler temp was hard to keep under 200*before, now around 175*to 180* with hotter air out of the registers.
I can't say this will help anybody else but so far I like it.
Let's see some pic's and a more detailed description when you get a chance please.
 
Ash wacker

Ash wacker

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Well, it's been two weeks and the insulation in the door is working very good. The outside is a little burned but the door is cool to the touch and I don't get the goo build up in the sill as much. I also put the steam fix on and it works great. Two weeks and I had to open the valve for about 30 seconds tonight. Thanks for the upgrades and I will work on it some more this summer... more insulation, fix the chimney sweating problem, ranco thermosatat.:cheers:
 
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