• Please be aware that we have recently gotten a wave of users that, when researched, are found to be from Nigeria. They are trying to sell products and asking to be paid through Zelle or Venmo leaving users with no recourse if they don't ship the product. If you suspect this activity please contact admin and we will research their information to verify their location.

ArboristSite.com Sponsors
Peak Industries


Shaver Improvement Forum

ngzcaz

ngzcaz

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
May 15, 2008
Messages
451
Location
NE Pa. ( Poconos )
Its a funny thing. I was looking at a few OWB's and comparing the lack of creosote in my chimney ( 165 Shaver ) and the black mess coming out of others. And the higher the chimney the more the mess.

I'd be real sure I'd need a higher chimney before I'd mess with mine.. the true " ash pan is another story.. "

:cheers:
 
trshmn

trshmn

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Messages
50
Age
54
Location
ohio
Here's a tip. If you need to add more chemicals after your DHW coil is sealed up, add them through the steam vent/ overflow tube.

Put a piece of 1" pex over the pipe with the curve upward. Insert a funnel and pour in the chemicals. Give it a couple cups of water for a chaser.
I used your idea for Fletchers steam fix, I put a piece of 1" pex 6" long with the curved end up on the overflow tube, secured with a hose clamp, filled with water half way out, and does'nt overflow the DHW tank, now no more steam!!! But now if I have to add chemicals I guess I'll have to take it off a couple days before so it can steam and water level can go down. Better than resealing the DHW cover every time. Great ideas guys, keep them coming, Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
trshmn

trshmn

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Messages
50
Age
54
Location
ohio
I actually got it here:
http://www.drillspot.com/products/42984/Dormeyer_2005-M-1_Laminated_Solenoid

grainger wanted me to set up an account, so I went with drillspot. This thing is way more solenoid than I need. It's very strong and the door is very light. It seems to work well so far.
Ordered the solenoid yesterday, should be here mid week. On yours, when everything is up to temp and draft cover is closed do you still have smoke coming out the stack???? I closed mine all the way and waited 5-10 minutes and still had smoke coming out the stack, I thought that would kill all smoke if no air was getting to it??
 
projectsho89

projectsho89

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Oct 8, 2008
Messages
281
Location
In the woods near St Louis
Ordered the solenoid yesterday, should be here mid week. On yours, when everything is up to temp and draft cover is closed do you still have smoke coming out the stack???? I closed mine all the way and waited 5-10 minutes and still had smoke coming out the stack, I thought that would kill all smoke if no air was getting to it??
The only way you'll kill ALL smoke is if the fire goes completely out.

After 10-15 minutes, you should just see gentle smoldering smoke coming from the stack. The fire is still getting some air via the stack (small downdraft).

Steve
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
446
Age
43
Location
Northeast CT
The only way you'll kill ALL smoke is if the fire goes completely out.

After 10-15 minutes, you should just see gentle smoldering smoke coming from the stack. The fire is still getting some air via the stack (small downdraft).

Steve
Yup, The smoke will just gently roll out of the chimney when closed. When the blower is running, the smoke is pushed out with force.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
446
Age
43
Location
Northeast CT
Simple idea, it's even in the manual, but I didn't start implementing it until today. If your blower is on when you go to load tour boiler, open the ash door before pulling the coals forward over the grate. I was going to add a switch to the front to shut off the blower, but figured I'd end up forgetting to turn it back on after loading. Works very well so far.

Here's a pic after raking the coals forward with the blower on and the ash door shut. it's a crappy phone camera, but the flame was mostly blue.
 
Last edited:
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
446
Age
43
Location
Northeast CT
Fletch, I see you are in Ct so I'm guessing you're burning anthracite coal ? Nut or egg ? Its around $ 175 a ton down this way..

:cheers:
Miscommunication on my part, the pic is of my wood coal bed. I'm planning to try burning coal though at some point this winter. If it works out well, I may end up building an area to contain the coal and get a dump truck load. I know anthracite is available and I think the price is about the same as yours. Do you burn coal? If so how does it compare to wood, usage wise. Does a ton = a cord of hardwood?
 
hedgecutter

hedgecutter

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Nov 7, 2008
Messages
22
Age
55
Location
Kansas
I've had my Shaver 165 going about a month now with mixed results. Just did the steam fix yesterday, looks to be working good. After reading the posts here (great info!) I'm wondering if I have my heat exhanger plumbed backwards. The place I bought it from said to run the hot water in the top nipple and the return out the bottom. His reasoning is "it is most important that the nipple on the water to air heat exchanger that is closest to the fan is the cold water return to the outdoor wood furnace. the top nipple farthest away from the fan needs to be the hot water feed. this is improtant because as the cool air enters the air if hooked up this way then the bottom nipple will pre heat the air entering the water to air heat exchanger and as it exits the water to air heat exchanger the top nipple will super heat the air. if this is hooked up backwards the air entering the water to air heat exchanger will super heat the air and when it exits the water to air heat exchanger it will cool the air down." The guys on the site here say the opposite, hot in the bottom, cold out the top, which seems more logical to me. Anyone have the definitive answer? Thanks!
David78, your description on water flow and heat transfer sounds correct to me. But what you describe as top or bottom nipples is relative to the air flow direction of the blower. What I mean here is some forced air systems have a blower that blows in the "up" direction and some blow "down". If you want to maximize heat transfer then you want to flow the water and air through your heat exchanger in opposite directions. In other words "Counter Flow". This method introduces the hottest water to the air exiting the exchanger flowing to your ductwork and vents. On the flip side the slightly cooler water exiting the exchanger is preheating the air as it just enters the exchanger. I hope that explanation helps. On exchangers this size the direction does not really matter all that much in heat transfer. But to those of us wanting to tranfer all they can then counter flow maximizes heat transfer.
 
Cirrus Aviator

Cirrus Aviator

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Nov 14, 2008
Messages
7
Location
Wisconsin
You could use a 3-way switch,In one position the blowers on,in the other a loading/reminding light is on...
The 3-way is the best use. I have one side of the switch powering the yard light on the front of the the boiler. The other side of the switch powers the blower. Way to go Beerman. I have also wired a normally open thermostat in series with my aqua stat. That way if the water temp gets below what I set, 140 in this case, the blower goes off. Works great if I sleep in or go out of town. That way the blower is not blowing sub zero air in the burn chamber. It was a $20 dollar unit. If anyone is interested I can post the wire diagram.
 
hedgecutter

hedgecutter

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Nov 7, 2008
Messages
22
Age
55
Location
Kansas
fletcher0780, Here are the mods I have made to date on my Shaver 165. I installed the Ranco programmable temp controller in a copper tube drywell to help take the jacket water temperature swings out and put an on/off switch mounted on the side of the unit for the blower while loading wood. The only other thing is I have played around with is a blower door solenoid similar to yours, but I have yet to perfect it. I think I will try your fix on the fan door. That is it for now. I will keep you updated on any future changes I make.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 1, 2008
Messages
446
Age
43
Location
Northeast CT
fletcher0780, Here are the mods I have made to date on my Shaver 165. I installed the Ranco programmable temp controller in a copper tube drywell to help take the jacket water temperature swings out and put an on/off switch mounted on the side of the unit for the blower while loading wood. The only other thing is I have played around with is a blower door solenoid similar to yours, but I have yet to perfect it. I think I will try your fix on the fan door. That is it for now. I will keep you updated on any future changes I make.
My blower door seems to be working well, I'll know for sure when I get home today, as it is quite warm out and I filled the firebox this morning. If all goes well I'll have no boiling issues. I have my Ranco set to blower off at 165, blower on at 155. Still looking for ideas on insulating the firebox door.
 
mistergreentree

mistergreentree

ArboristSite Member
Joined
May 21, 2008
Messages
72
Location
Northeast Indiana
I just put a solenoid on my fan and made a damper out of the door. Thanks Fletcher! I also had to use a string to keep the door from over opening...I used a solenoid that we had laying around at work so this only cost me $6.00 for misc. parts and my time spent in the wind and snow this afternoon doing the mod. It all seems to work good right now...hoping this will reduce fan run times. Should know after a week or so of using.

Thanks again!

I've got some people working on the door insulation problem and will let you guys know what comes of it.
 
Top