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Shaver Improvement Forum

Windwalker7

Windwalker7

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Jun 18, 2008
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Dlav,


I really like that blower set up you got there.


Do you happen to have the part# for the selenoid you have?

This looks like a must do mod for the Shaver.

Thanks!
 

DLav

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Dlav,


I really like that blower set up you got there.


Do you happen to have the part# for the selenoid you have?

This looks like a must do mod for the Shaver.

Thanks!
Thanks Windwalker,
I bought the solenoid at Grainger, their part number is 4X239. Cost was $19 something plus tax.
 

DLav

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DLav,

Are you using the stock thermostat?
Right now I'm still using the stock thermostat, but yesterday I ordered the Ranco digital stat that Fletcher is using. I'm hoping to wire the digital stat through a switch to the blower and then put a switch between the original stat and the blower. Both will still be wired to run the blower, I'll keep the original one off unless the digital stat fails, that way I can flip back to the original without rewiring anything while I make repairs.
 
John D

John D

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I finished the ranco install today.That is one nice aquastat! I really like the adjustability of it.I ended up setting it at 175 for now with a 5 degree differential. Last night the stock tstat with the modded blower turned out ot be a disaster.The differential is just too wide,and it would idle for amlost an hour,then come on too late,by then the water was down to 138-140,and the fire was so cooled off,it took 20 minutes for it to get going and over an hour to recover. It seemed to use more wood than the original setup as well. I think the biggest problem is the stock stat.It seems to have 40 degrees of differential,by the time it recovers.I think that is why i was struggling with the air door flap before the mods, i was using it to get the proper temps,as the blower wouldnt come on until it was too cool. Anyway,I think this stat will fix all that.
When I finished up today,the circ had been off for almost 2 hours,and I had wedged the OWB air door open a little to keep the fire hot,upon restarting,and setting the Ranco,the boiler was 183,I set it for 180 w 5 degree diff,and by the time I restarted it,all 3 zones were calling,and the load was heavy,I noticed temps dropped right past 175 when the blower kicked on,down to 172 before it was able to stop dropping temps,and it held 172 for about 10 minutes,then regained temp very slowly. So the 5 degree differential was almost a 10 by the time the boilers sag is factored in.That is important,and 1/2 the problem i had before the Ranco.
I also tried to neaten up my wiring,I wired the tstat with 14/3 MC,using the red wire as the 120V trigger wire to the blower,to a handy box, where it met the blower wiring,and incoming power,so it looks nice and neat.I also wired in a GFCI outlet as well,so I now have a power outlet out there.The power is on the red wire of the 12/3,so its separate,and i can drop the OWB power,and keep the outlet for working on it.I wanted to keep the stock stat for backup,but the wiring was messy,maybe I'll redo it,and put a 3way switch on it.I honestly do not want to ever have to use it,as it is 1/2 the reason I had trouble keeping the OWB within the proper temp range.
Now I have just 2 things left to do before Im happy for now.I still need ot insulate the chimney,as its still sweating,and i need to put the sensor light on the front of the boiler.
One last thing,I used a metal screw in the pivot hole on the air door flap to keep it open ever so slightly,I think it smokes less,and restarts faster this way.Ill tune it by screwing it in or out as needed.
Thanks again Fletcher,and Dlav for the pics,and tips,the info I learned here is priceless.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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John D,

Glad to hear it's working well for you. You won't see the benefits of the damper until the temps outside warm up, but that ranco is worth its weight in gold. Only other think I'd like to add is a 0-10v temperature display to put in the house and pull off the analog output on the ranco, but I'm having no luck finding one.
 
ngzcaz

ngzcaz

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Have you given thought to simply digging down instead if the landscaping would allow it ? You truly are a hot rodder at heart. Raising it seems like a lot of work. :) Stripping the sides and checking the insulation seems like a fairly straightforward operation and worthwhile as well. Let us know if you plan to DIY or have someone come in. Be interesting if quality control did their job on at least this part. And while I think of it, do you plan to switch the pex to the " proper way " which is exactly opposite of what we were instructed to do by the installation manual ? The guy that sells the water treatment packet first clued me in on this before Ben suggested it. Unfortunately I already had mine hooked up and spray foamed in place. Easy to do when first installing, not easy when everythings in place.

John, glad to hear the t stat is working as it should. I agree the stock t stat doesnt do the job. I havent noticed a 40 degree variance but on mine 25 is certainly possible.

If anyone has been able to run the water temp display to the front of the boiler please post a pic and tell us how you did it. Excuse my failing memory if its been done.

And...........................Happy New Year everyone !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:cheers:
 
fletcher0780

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I don't want a step, so if I do anything, it will be to raise the unit. I'm going to leave my pex the way it is for now, if I have a problem I'll make the correction in the basement (that's where my pump is anyway). Insulating the bottom of the boiler is my top priority.
 

DLav

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Lowering the pad in front of mine wouldn't have worked for me, but certainly there must be a lot of places that it would work. I measured the door this morning and the bottom of the door is 30 inches, slightly lower than my waist. Its the right height for me. I took some pics, but can't seem to get them loaded, I'll try again later.
My mod on the blower worked great when the outside temps were warmer, but now the temperature swing from my stock thermostat is causing me the same headaches John was having. I'm not waiting for my digital stat to come, I'm going to Grainger today and buying another one, they have the same Ranco in stock, now I'll have a spare and can eliminate my stock stat completely. I had it set at 160 and yesterday I went out there and the water was boiling, I lowered it to 150, and it still boiled, I turned it down a bit more and the fire nearly died out. I swear this thing is gonna drive me to drinking,,,,,,
Fletcher & John, do you have the measurements where you drilled your hole for the dry well? I saw one person drilled it 14'' in and 4" from the side. Are those the measurements you guys used?

Is anybody using a creosote preventer in their fireboxes? What kind? I bought some at Menards the other day and started using it, don't really know if its working yet.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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The ranco should fix your problems. I installed mine to the left of the DHW cover and about 8" in when looking from the back, just make sure it is 12-14" long. The only thing I use to combat creosote is a bag full of crumpled newspaper on a hot bed of coals with the blower running, looks pretty at night with the blue flame shooting out the chimney.
 
projectsho89

projectsho89

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John D,

Glad to hear it's working well for you. You won't see the benefits of the damper until the temps outside warm up, but that ranco is worth its weight in gold. Only other think I'd like to add is a 0-10v temperature display to put in the house and pull off the analog output on the ranco, but I'm having no luck finding one.
LCD Digital Panel Meters are less than $20 from www.jameco.com

You'll have to add a couple of precision resistors for scaling and a power supply assuming that the DC output of the Ranco is directly proportional to temperature value. Would need to know how the 0-10 volt output correlates to the measured temperature.

Steve
 
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urhstry

urhstry

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do you plan to switch the pex to the " proper way " which is exactly opposite of what we were instructed to do by the installation manual

What exactly is the proper way? I think I know what you are talking about but want to make sure.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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do you plan to switch the pex to the " proper way " which is exactly opposite of what we were instructed to do by the installation manual

What exactly is the proper way? I think I know what you are talking about but want to make sure.
pulling off the bottom instead of the top. I could reverse the pump flow, but then I'd need to move my y strainer.
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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LCD Digital Panel Meters are less than $20 from www.jameco.com

You'll have to add a couple of precision resistors for scaling and a power supply assuming that the DC output of the Ranco is directly proportional to temperature value. Would need to know how the 0-10 volt output correlates to the measured temperature.

Steve
I was hoping for a simple plug and play display I could just wire into those outputs and put in my living room to monitor temps.
 
projectsho89

projectsho89

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I was hoping for a simple plug and play display I could just wire into those outputs and put in my living room to monitor temps.
Looked at the Ranco specs.

It ain't going to be that easy since the controller puts out a linear voltage from 0 to 10 volts that is proportional for temperatures from -30F to 220F.

I'm surprised Ranco doesn't offer a remote display. Perhaps they do, I haven't run across one yet

Steve
 

DLav

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The ranco should fix your problems. I installed mine to the left of the DHW cover and about 8" in when looking from the back, just make sure it is 12-14" long. The only thing I use to combat creosote is a bag full of crumpled newspaper on a hot bed of coals with the blower running, looks pretty at night with the blue flame shooting out the chimney.
I installed the Ranco digital stat today, so hopefully it'll start working better, that stock thermostat was a piece of junk. It was actually pretty easy to install, went better than I thought.

Here are some pics of the base I put under my OWB.
 
berry5

berry5

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i had a few questions i reversed my pump flow just put the pump upside down changed the flow done it a week ago no problems cold back in the top hot from the bottom the ranco mod how bad is it? is it a easy hook up like the factory one mine has got a 30degree difference i think it going out one more question both me and my cousin have a shaver 165 the same heat exchanger 18 by 21 his stove is white inside mine has creosote running out the door the power was off the other night for 4 hours mine was boiling, his lost water temps. when my fan runs you can here mine boil his doesnt do that could it be elevation? im on a hill always windy he is in a valley. these 2 stoves are as different as night and day aany body have a clue
 
fletcher0780

fletcher0780

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The ranco is an easy install. Did you do the vent pipe steam modification? Do you have steaming issues? Are you both burning the same wood? Your cousin might be burning better dryer wood which could account for the white firebox.
 
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