should i buy 041 for milling

[BJD85]

It's just a box of parts with zero instructions. You need a t 27 torx, a pair of needle nose pliers, and a small socket set. My first one took me 12 hours. I can build it in about 2 hours now, so I build more than one at a time. I have built up to 3 at once. That took me 6 and a half hours.View attachment 759912

So it will probably take me a few weeks. Lol. Sorry to make this a chinease saw thread... But last question. whats the difference between the blue holtz and the orange farmtech? Any at all?

 

[noodlewalker]

So it will probably take me a few weeks. Lol. Sorry to make this a chinease saw thread... But last question. whats the difference between the blue holtz and the orange farmtech? Any at all?

Same thing, only the factory builds the blue one and you (or I) build the orange one.

 

[rarefish383]

I know you are a bit pressed for time with stuff ready to mill. But here's 2 saws I've picked up reasonable, the red one is a Homelite Super 1050, 100CC's, I got at an auction for $150 and it's a great runner that I use for big buckin. The Yellow one is a Mac 550, 99CC's, I got at a yard sale for $35 and a great runner. I'd use it more but I put it on the top shelf and it's hard to get down. I passed on a running Mac 1000 at an auction last Sat, sold for $125. The Super 1050 with the 36" bar is the saw I used for years milling, till I bought a new 660. I'm all for using old saws till you save the money to by a new one.

 

[BJD85]

Same thing, only the factory builds the blue one and you (or I) build the orange one.

I like doing things myself but just to keep in my back pocket how much do you charge and where do you live?

 

[buttercup]

I don't know anything about the 041, but the picture of my avatar is made by a copycat 038M and it is beach wood pretty much rock hard. That's just a small sample of what I made with it from a rather mature twin tree and I had no problems with that what so ever.

 

[buttercup]

Of course bigger the better, but if you use a Granberg portable mill compared to a Logosol mill then weight does matter - yes it does.

 

[noodlewalker]

I like doing things myself but just to keep in my back pocket how much do you charge and where do you live?

I just sold mine used for 400 to another guy on A.S. I quoted him a brand new one with a big bore engine (97cc) for 450 delivered. I'm in iowa

 

[SeMoTony]

Yep I been looking
Mostly on f b marketplace
The Husky was 350 so I thought that was a good price

Good price isn't what the purchase price is. It is the value per dollar. A 661-c ported cylinder empty muffler for a grand, was much better than a 661-c that was used by a logging outfit for 18 months for $550. Except, this motor head needed a good crankcase, for one of the builders to use for a stroker build. HLsupply had the 660 crankshaft on sale so that will be sent along with. 98.52 cc's once the machining & build is done.
Save the bit of money, be patient, the saw that will do what you want will show up. Hope you have saved enough when it does. 170# compression 046, $500 TradinPost buy when I was gonna dual power head a bar. I use either of the 70 cc saws up to 35" range of diameter. As has been said learn to sharpen and set up for the wood you are cutting, for the speed of feed that let's the motor run at a speed that let's the fan keep it cool.
Forgot Ms-460 was bought new w/25" bar for more than 661-c PHO. It is the ph in my avatar wearing a 60" bar running skip square chisel that allowed room for the chips to travel freely.
Enjoy safely

 

[chenangokid]

You make a good point and I am being patient and watching a few
Nice slab you have in the pic
Are you making a table ?

 

[Jackbnimble]

Are you pushing on the saw hard? I just milled up some 22-24 " wide red oak with a makita 7900. Wich is 79cc and it was a breeze. As long as i kept the chain sharp and the RPMS up it was very smooth. I stop and give the saw a chance to cool down every now and again. I also moniter the temp of my muffler with a temp gun. I dont push i just guide the saw. So what im getting at is if your carefull and take your time an a few 18" logs shouldent kill your saw. But if your like me any reason to buy a new saw is a good one. So yeah just buy it!

Nice job. Beautiful wood.

 

[Jackbnimble]

Good price isn't what the purchase price is. It is the value per dollar. A 661-c ported cylinder empty muffler for a grand, was much better than a 661-c that was used by a logging outfit for 18 months for $550. Except, this motor head needed a good crankcase, for one of the builders to use for a stroker build. HLsupply had the 660 crankshaft on sale so that will be sent along with. 98.52 cc's once the machining & build is done.
Save the bit of money, be patient, the saw that will do what you want will show up. Hope you have saved enough when it does. 170# compression 046, $500 TradinPost buy when I was gonna dual power head a bar. I use either of the 70 cc saws up to 35" range of diameter. As has been said learn to sharpen and set up for the wood you are cutting, for the speed of feed that let's the motor run at a speed that let's the fan keep it cool.
Forgot Ms-460 was bought new w/25" bar for more than 661-c PHO. It is the ph in my avatar wearing a 60" bar running skip square chisel that allowed room for the chips to travel freely.
Enjoy safely

I have no idea what you said, but I like and agree with it. I know that you know what you are talking about. Remember, there are kindergartners here, too.

 

[buttercup]

You make a good point and I am being patient and watching a few
Nice slab you have in the pic
Are you making a table ?

I'm not sure whom you asked that question, but I'm not afraid of making a fool of myself - I already am one

Well if it was my avatar you where referring to no I'm not using those boards as in the picture, beech wood shrinks "a lot" and it develops tremendous tension so those boards in the picture are about 2,5m long and 2" thick, they are now cut in to 2x4 about 1,25m long.
I will use them for anything I need hardwood for, like tool jigs, brackets, table legs, frames and such. If I was to make a table surface with it I would make it from many thin slices glued and compressed together to eliminate the tension.
It would have been fun to make my own kitchen table surface, but it would be also be a lot of work doing it - I might just buy a ready made oak plate that is already machined to perfection.

 

[SeMoTony]

I have no idea what you said, but I like and agree with it. I know that you know what you are talking about. Remember, there are kindergartners here, too.

I may be hard to follow at times. I bought new a ms 460 w 25" bar and then added a 50" cannon which I liked so well that a 60" was ordered " just in case". That is in the avatar. I sought more power and jumped on a cylinder ported 661 c that was $150 or so less than the 460. It runs very well now that it's broke in, like new when it came to me.
The $550 worn in 661 c has been used for 18 months by a logging outfit. Only in the inventory as a parts donor for a build using a Ms-660 crankshaft for a longer stroke which increases displacement from 92.x cc's to 98.52 cc. May be easier to get a big bore p&c placed on a ms-660, but then I woodn't have the m-tronic carb control which I've come to appreciate on the 661c in use.
Also in the inventory is a 72" forester bar. Another "just in case" buy when I found it. Over near Cape Girardeau is a 20 foot stump (top blown off) that is 5 to 6 foot in diameter, so when it gets cool enough we plan on dropping it and trying to mill some obscenely large slabs. So here I am again, having what is needed from taking a risk on acquiring bigger than what I need then.
More torque is important IMHO for milling comfortably. So bigger displacement powerhead as needed. Milled a 30" sycamore with 046 stihl since it was up to the job.3" on trailer 4 2+" & 1 @ 1 3/8" stacked. I've since found out that sycamore may not dry very level at less than 25% water content, so I'll find out down the road. Ash and red cedar have been very stable while drying. Red oak wasn't bad and white oak gets a curl opposite the direction of the rings, which makes me glad it was cut thicker than final desired thickness. Have to set up a router-planer since my pieces are 26" wide and 8 to 10 feet long. Search that title for info on router planning large slabs.
Hope to have not added more confusion.
Enjoy milling safely