Looking to buy a raker grinder in good to mint condition. Seem to be pretty rare. Let me know if you have something you are willing to sell. Thanks!
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Want to Buy Silvey HDG-6 Raker Grinder
- Thread starter Duane(Pa)
- Start date
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Bump to the top. Still looking for a HDG-6 grinder in useable condition. Thanks!
There are a LOT of threads with this title Ol Buddy.
Easier to get an Oregon and adapt it.
Or wait a LONG time.
Yeah.....I started one of them. Lol
Easier to get an Oregon and adapt it.
Or wait a LONG time.
Yeah.....I started one of them. Lol
I still need to put a tooth rest/adjustable guage on my Oregon.
Im still waiting too although I had a chance at one it was just way to costly, as in I could have just bought new chains for a long time for the cost.
Yeah I saw one in a video that kicked it in and out.
I just sold my silvey swing arm to a guy that has the raker grinder. Plus another square grinder.
I do 60" full comp chains for folks and never have seen the need, yet.
I do 60" full comp chains for folks and never have seen the need, yet.
I see the need on ever chain I sharpen that needs the rakers hit, I'm not into filing them.
A lot of the chains I get have damaged cutters which is why I like the grinders too. I enjoy bringing them back to life, just not hitting a chain with 10-20 strokes, then the rakers with 5-10
.Link or it didn't happen
.Chipper 1.......I searched “raker grinder”
37 seconds.
The Chainsawguy
37 seconds.
The Chainsawguy
I've seen that one, not sure if it has a cam setup, looks like it and if so the tooth would have to be indexed/clocked to the cam.
I want something that as I bring the wheel/head down a stop mounted on the head touches the top of the tooth, it would have to have a little adjustment so it could be set for different brands/types of chain as well as different depths.
How about a hollow “T” where the top of the T hits the tap cutters and the wheel cuts between them?
Pull the chain right to left “backwards” and have an index right along the side of the wheel that catches the back of the tooth.
There would be a different thickness indexer for each size chain.
This way there would be one less adjustment
Just a hard stop.
And the “T” would be a hard stop down. No slack in the moving parts you usually have
I’m driving so just a short post
Get it totally( if you mean hits the top of the cutters as I don't know what a tap cutter is unless we are cutting threads), sounds pretty good, but I think you would want to at least have some sort of shims or slotted adjustability for running different saws or different wood types as well as chain types.
For converting an Oregon I'm not sure the "T" configuration would be the easiest or totally necessary, but I'm sure it could work.
For converting an Oregon I'm not sure the "T" configuration would be the easiest or totally necessary, but I'm sure it could work.
The travel of the wheel would be an adjustment linking the “T” to the wheel travel.
The “T” or foot would have the wheel just peaking out.
Hard adjustment to how much exposed.
CBN wheel is the only way to go.
I use the wide flat wheel on my Oregon with the head tilted to the right so it keeps the approximate angle of the factory angle without the curve, I think it's at like 13 degrees.
Here's one you may like.
https://firewood hoardersclub.com/forums/threads/making-a-depth-gauge-raker-grinding-fixture.16092/
I'll adjust the link based on what it does, right now I left a space between firewood and hoarders.
Nice little fixture.
But again.....dressing the wheel.
Just dress your 13 degrees on the CBN wheel and you are DONE
And most don’t have a radius dresser.
And a lil surface grinder, while handy, is heavy to take to the relief site. Lol
But if grinding a chain for a GTG.......XACT dresser. Oh my
Sorry I forgot to say that's not mine, but figured you would appreciate it knowing your background, and as well for some ideas.
I leave the stone on mine flat, and i give light taps so idont harden the raker as it makes for a difficult time hand filing down the road whether it's for me or others
.Oh it’s done right!!!Sorry I forgot to say that's not mine, but figured you would appreciate it knowing your background, and as well for some ideas.
I leave the stone on mine flat, and i give light taps so idont harden the raker as it makes for a difficult time hand filing down the road whether it's for me or others
Nothing missing and nothing extra!!!
But......
I got to carry the grinders with me ......
Don't you have a wall dedicated to a surface grinder a mill and a lathe in the RV
.They call the right tool for that job a file, although depending on the relief work I'm sure a sore elbow would be had if your doing other folks chains.
MAYBE a tiny surface grinder. A small table powered hand cranked. A full sized would be silly. Makes more room for a bigger mill and lathe.Do't you have a wall dedicated to a surface grinder a mill and a lathe in the RV
They call the right tool for that job a file, although depending on the relief work I'm sure a sore elbow would be had if your doing other folks chains.
But yes......there will be a mill and lathe.........much easier to build guns on the road.
What’s the sore elbow? Grinding is e a s y.....
Right on.
Sore from filing rakers.
Ahhhhh....
What brand file you use?
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