farmboy9
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi guys,
I have just assembled my own 13 hp, 22gpm two-stage log splitter and she is going great. The first picture is of the whole thing. The axe only moves sixteen inches in total, that is because the stoves in New Zealand only have an 18 inch firebox. The blocks I cut are heavy enough at 16 inches thick. Then I have a three and a half inch cylinder, so with a 22 gpm pump and sixteen inches to travel, my cycle time is less than five seconds out, two and a half back (two inch rod; 3/4" hoses). For myself, I don't think one needs huge tonnage; a genuine 8 tons at the axe is plenty, imo, and the beam and slide work less. The engine is a chinese "Honda Copy", it produces the rated power and starts okay, I shall replace it with the real thing after a couple of years.
The thing I wanted to post about was the log lifter. I have built a hinged arm beyond the end of the beam which can be raised by a chain that attaches to a hook on top of the axe. Hook it on and as the axe travels back it picks up the arm and the block on it. Once upright, a separate loop of chain is lifted over a small post, then the axe is moved forward an inch until that loop takes the weight, then the chain is unhooked from the axe and the block slid across and split. I can lift 200lb blocks with ease in a few seconds. In the first picture you see the log lift in the lowered position. In the second picture you see it raised and hanging on the loop of chain. The third picture shows the roller housing as it is when the lifting arm is on the ground. The best thing is, one works at just above waist height, a great saver for the back. Having figured it out, I now find that it is just what I needed. I did worry for a bit it might be mickey mouse but, no, it is more practical than the hydraulic one the big manufacturer of splitters around here fits, which he puts on the wrong side (!!) . My total cost was one third of what he was asking for a splitter and I still had the beam, axe and cylinder made professionally.
Incidentally, the whole thing is also lighter than many so i can move it over rough ground myself. In practice, this is in fact important; don't just keep welding weight on, you will regret it.
Lastly, I would like to thank SilentElk for his post on Splitter Hydraulics last August, that gave me the insight to ignore some of the bad advice I had heard and do what I thought right.
What do you think? I am open to suggestions, comments and loving criticisms.
I have just assembled my own 13 hp, 22gpm two-stage log splitter and she is going great. The first picture is of the whole thing. The axe only moves sixteen inches in total, that is because the stoves in New Zealand only have an 18 inch firebox. The blocks I cut are heavy enough at 16 inches thick. Then I have a three and a half inch cylinder, so with a 22 gpm pump and sixteen inches to travel, my cycle time is less than five seconds out, two and a half back (two inch rod; 3/4" hoses). For myself, I don't think one needs huge tonnage; a genuine 8 tons at the axe is plenty, imo, and the beam and slide work less. The engine is a chinese "Honda Copy", it produces the rated power and starts okay, I shall replace it with the real thing after a couple of years.
The thing I wanted to post about was the log lifter. I have built a hinged arm beyond the end of the beam which can be raised by a chain that attaches to a hook on top of the axe. Hook it on and as the axe travels back it picks up the arm and the block on it. Once upright, a separate loop of chain is lifted over a small post, then the axe is moved forward an inch until that loop takes the weight, then the chain is unhooked from the axe and the block slid across and split. I can lift 200lb blocks with ease in a few seconds. In the first picture you see the log lift in the lowered position. In the second picture you see it raised and hanging on the loop of chain. The third picture shows the roller housing as it is when the lifting arm is on the ground. The best thing is, one works at just above waist height, a great saver for the back. Having figured it out, I now find that it is just what I needed. I did worry for a bit it might be mickey mouse but, no, it is more practical than the hydraulic one the big manufacturer of splitters around here fits, which he puts on the wrong side (!!) . My total cost was one third of what he was asking for a splitter and I still had the beam, axe and cylinder made professionally.
Incidentally, the whole thing is also lighter than many so i can move it over rough ground myself. In practice, this is in fact important; don't just keep welding weight on, you will regret it.
Lastly, I would like to thank SilentElk for his post on Splitter Hydraulics last August, that gave me the insight to ignore some of the bad advice I had heard and do what I thought right.
What do you think? I am open to suggestions, comments and loving criticisms.
Last edited: