skip VS full house

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Harvdog

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ok so i have always owned full comps, i ran my first skip the other day and it was terrible. your thoughts? it seemed jumpy and rough.... not nearly as smooth as my fulls
 
Skip tooth is primarily for use in two cases that i am aware of in every day work. The first being in softwood. take your rakers down a hare, so the chips are "thicker". softwood is easier to cut. there is something about giving the chips more room to pile up, as well as not using energy to actually re-cut the same chip. The other case is when you are running a saw with a long bar-a 60 cc with a 30 inch or so. We run a Stihl 880. 36" bar with full house it binds in the cut in hardwood with a stock chain. But we run the 60" with a square ground skip-tooth and it pulls sweet all day long. Could be other cases. But i would run full house for sure if the saw can pull it, especially if your in hardwood. I will look forward to hearing others experiences. Let us know your setups too, what you run on what, and when.
 
Fussy point with the thread title: 'Full House' refers to chain that doesn't have any spaces / drive links between cutters. 'Right-Left-Right-Left'.

It is a specialty chain sequence used for carving, bamboo, cutting non-ferrous metal, etc.

The 'Right-tie strap-Left-tie strap' sequence is usually referred to as 'standard' or 'full complement ' ('full comp') chain.

Philbert
 
It's really hard to get where I live. I dont know about other parts of Ireland but the two stihl dealerships within driving distance have never heard of it and I have never seen it advertised on other dealership's websites. I have to order it from the UK at a slightly more expensive price.
 
thanks philbert, my skip was on a 24" sugi on my lightly modded 372. (.020 squish, pop up, 75cc top, piped, fresh motor 5 tanks in just about to lean it out for full power) everything else i run full comp on. (257-18") (034-20") (MS361-20") (fake 660-32") ( climbers are all fulls as well) and full on my 288
 
ok so i have always owned full comps, i ran my first skip the other day and it was terrible. your thoughts? it seemed jumpy and rough.... not nearly as smooth as my fulls
short bars get full comp, by short I mean anything under 32" Long bars run skip,

the Skip is a bit more jumpy, especially limbing, but if your sinking a 36" or longer bar up to the dogs, full comp has a tendency to clog up then bind up, even on a 32" if the saw ain't got the snoot to pull it full comp will bind up

Skip chain smoothes out once you get a few teeth in wood at once.

Boring or using the tip can be especially frightening if your used to full comp, or worse safety chain

As others stated above, lots of folks run skip simply because filing takes about half the time. Even though a full comp chain cuts faster, but a dull chain is still a dull chain.

As far as cc's and stuff, I don't generally run anything under 60cc and that has a 20" everything else is 70cc or better, but lets be honest here, if your logging, don't even bother with anything under 60cc, the weight isn't that bad, and power saves lifes as well as time
 
Back at my desk top computer: Arraigned these from more-toothy to less.

Full-House is for carving and special applications.
Standard is also called Full Composition / Full Comp, and is for most general cutting.
Semi-skip is for those who cannot make up their minds (actually a lot of guys like it for some things).
Skip is for improved chip clearing with longer bars, for underpowered saws running longer bars, and to reduce teeth to file.
Cutter-less chain is for when the saw powerhead is used to power something else (go-cart, winch, etc.)

Chain Sequence 2.png

Philbert
 
Skip chain smoothes out once you get a few teeth in wood at once.

Boring or using the tip can be especially frightening if your used to full comp, or worse safety chain

As others stated above, lots of folks run skip simply because filing takes about half the time. Even though a full comp chain cuts faster, but a dull chain is still a dull chain.
This :rolleyes:.

Wide open on the boring :yes:.

Nice only doing half the cutters, and even nicer only doing half the rakers!
I still run standard for most cutting since I have a lot of them around.
 
Back at my desk top computer: Arraigned these from more-toothy to less.

Full-House is for carving and special applications.
Standard is also called Full Composition / Full Comp, and is for most general cutting.
Semi-skip is for those who cannot make up their minds (actually a lot of guys like it for some things).
Skip is for improved chip clearing with longer bars, for underpowered saws running longer bars, and to reduce teeth to file.
Cutter-less chain is for when the saw powerhead is used to power something else (go-cart, winch, etc.)

View attachment 811288

Philbert
Was just at a buddies the other day and he was using the cutter-less, his was homemade.
Also was at another buddies and he was using the hyper skip on his ms880 milling with a 5 or 6' bar.
There are also some other specialty milling chains.
 
Hyper skip is like a society that failed to take the China virus seriously with not many cutters left at all to do the work, full house is like the que at the unemployment office during China virus, semi and full skip are sorta in between. Just buy a loop and give it a try, that's always better than your mates neighbour's cousins wife's 2nd child's teachers opinion after a few glasses of whiskey.
 
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