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Smallest cc saws anyone has used for milling

BobL

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Oh yes, any muffler mod needs a retune for sure. Didn't say that but that was implied. Yes, will lean out the saw without a retune richer afterwards. - Paul

Although this is more of a problem with exhaust porting, if the muffler is initially severely restricted then a muffler mod may result in there not being enough range left in the H screw to enable a retune and this can end up damaging the saw.
 
Blisters

Blisters

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Although this is more of a problem with exhaust porting, if the muffler is initially severely restricted then a muffler mod may result in there not being enough range left in the H screw to enable a retune and this can end up damaging the saw.
Good stuff Bob that's one reason I don't want to port a saw that's strong to start with. I only open up the muffler and allow it to breath. Most of the time that makes a big difference.
 
Pauls_Workshop

Pauls_Workshop

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That's interesting Bob. I've never run into that but I'm sure it could happen. At that point, I would probably restrict the intake as needed to rebalance the fuel/air ratio and just cover up part of the filter area. I'm finding the modern saws seem to be pretty muffler restricted for emissions. The Echos anyway and Poulans for sure. - Paul
 
Jesse snowden

Jesse snowden

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This is a bluemax 20". 150 dollars on sale at home depot. 50cc? The mill is made from unistrut and the straight edge is just the straightest 2x4 I could find at the store! Hahaha So far with this saw I've managed to slab and quarter saw a few thousand dollars worth of big leaf maple, garry oak and western cedar for free from craigslist. Bigger IS better, but you can get by just fine with a little chinese saw:)



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Pauls_Workshop

Pauls_Workshop

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This is a bluemax 20". 150 dollars on sale at home depot. 50cc? The mill is made from unistrut and the straight edge is just the straightest 2x4 I could find at the store! Hahaha So far with this saw I've managed to slab and quarter saw a few thousand dollars worth of big leaf maple, garry oak and western cedar for free from craigslist. Bigger IS better, but you can get by just fine with a little chinese saw:)



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That's awesome! Thanks for the info and the nice photos too! I have not heard BlueMax mentioned on AS yet for anything! Great to know it will mill! If you haven't yet, try BobL's progressive raker method and report back on the difference for you! - Paul
 
IyaMan

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Bigger IS better, but you can get by just fine with a little chinese saw

Jesse, I liked your post not because of the saw, the mill you rigged up, or your overall results (impressive though they all certainly are). No, I liked it because the first pic looks like you're milling a quartersawn log in your living room. That sir, is dedication!
 
Jesse snowden

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Jesse, I liked your post not because of the saw, the mill you rigged up, or your overall results (impressive though they all certainly are). No, I liked it because the first pic looks like you're milling a quartersawn log in your living room. That sir, is dedication!


Haha not exactly, I was trying out the quarter sawing setup on some firewood rounds. My parents have a TV and recliners in the shop. But I have dried slabs in the hallway of my apartment when there wasn't any other spot. Lol
 
Jesse snowden

Jesse snowden

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That's awesome! Thanks for the info and the nice photos too! I have not heard BlueMax mentioned on AS yet for anything! Great to know it will mill! If you haven't yet, try BobL's progressive raker method and report back on the difference for you! - Paul
Do you have a link to that? I think I get the jist from the name, but would like to see how he does it. Thanks!
 
Colt Marlington

Colt Marlington

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Great thread here. I've been wanting to get started into some light milling. Mostly just hobby stuff.
I've been worried about burning up a saw.
But I have a Poulan 3500 and an Echo 660EVL that I don't have much money in. Both came with new 20" bars, which I think will be long enough to get me started with some outdoor furniture projects.

Also have the 10 year old used 372 with 24" bar that I just got I can use. But it's a hardnose which I don't think would be the best option.
 
Skeena2

Skeena2

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I’ve made some 2x7 with a 261. It did okay in a pnw softwood with regular chain. I’ve upgraded to a 60cc 034s to try with this year, might even try some ripping chains.

I’ve been in a cabin that’s 12’x16’x8’. It was entirely milled by a single 55cc 034.
 
WeekendLogger

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So I just read all of this wonderful info and yet I must ask the following. I intend to use a Alaskan type mill with my Homelite BigRed. My other option is my Stihl MS-271. Either case I need to get a longer bar. What is the longest bar I can used for slabbing a 22"oak. Thanks
 
csmillingnoob

csmillingnoob

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So I just read all of this wonderful info and yet I must ask the following. I intend to use a Alaskan type mill with my Homelite BigRed. My other option is my Stihl MS-271. Either case I need to get a longer bar. What is the longest bar I can used for slabbing a 22"oak. Thanks

To mill 22 inches in a Granberg (or clone), you will need a 28" bar. You basically lose 6 inches to your clutch cover and the nose clamp. The 6 inches can be reduced a hair, but not enough to let you move down to a 24" bar. 28" is a whole lotta' bar for the Stihl 271 even with a nose oiler which I consider a must-have. I might try the Homelite but save the Stihl for smaller stuff

What kind of oak?

Live oak? fuggitaboutid. Don't ruin your saws.
White oak? Wellllllllllllllllll . . . . . . . . maybe a little, but not regularly
Red oak? Green? doable.
 
andy at clover

andy at clover

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^^^^yes agree.
Nose oiler for any saw without an H/O oiler.
Even then, most saws need one for bars over 28.
Poling is almost as much a concern as power.
You can slow down the cut feed rate to compensate for less power but that requires more oil.
 
rarefish383

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If I'm not mistaken the Homelite Big Red is just an XL12 or Super XL, so your only talking 54 -58CC's. When I got my Super XL925 which is 77CC's, the only bar I had handy with a sharp chain was on one of my XL12's, and it swapped right over. My XL925 now has a 30" bar on it. You could put a 30 on your Big Red, don't think it could pull it.
 
WeekendLogger

WeekendLogger

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To mill 22 inches in a Granberg (or clone), you will need a 28" bar. You basically lose 6 inches to your clutch cover and the nose clamp. The 6 inches can be reduced a hair, but not enough to let you move down to a 24" bar. 28" is a whole lotta' bar for the Stihl 271 even with a nose oiler which I consider a must-have. I might try the Homelite but save the Stihl for smaller stuff

What kind of oak?

Live oak? fuggitaboutid. Don't ruin your saws.
White oak? Wellllllllllllllllll . . . . . . . . maybe a little, but not regularly
Red oak? Green? doable.

Thanks for the info It is a red oak, really nice and straight. Just cant bring myself to make firewood out of it. It sound like I should look for a more powerful saw if I want to pickup this hobby. Any chance a new 28" bar would fit both the Homelite and the Stihl. I am just curious since I wont get my BigRed back from my son for a fiew weeks. Kids!! Fast to borrow, slow to return. That way I would just buy one now and have it the next time I go to the farm.
 
WeekendLogger

WeekendLogger

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Obviously I have a lot to learn about milling. I am going to start small and work my way to better wood type. Guess I am shopping for a bigger saw.
 
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