Some MS193T questions

[dgr]

I pulled the rear cover and air filter to change the sparkplug and this is what it looked like underneath. Is this typical for the air filter on this saw or do we have a problem? She's been dropped on her bum at least once and the filter and cover were replaced after that. The newish cover has a small crack on the side but it appears that is external to any filtering.


How thirsty are these saws? It seems like I'm using two + tanks of fuel for one tank of oil. Does this seem right? It has a muffler mod. Four strokes piss revving it and cleans up in the cut.

Speaking of oil, she likes to leave a puddle when I set her down when using it. Bottom is wet. You can see a puddle on the barbeque. Chain doesn't seem dry so I don't think it's bypassing the bar. Is this pretty typical? Maybe I need to stop standing around piss revving it to impress the neighbors?

Last question. What's the proper procedure for pulling the sparkplug boot? I some how managed to close the choke lever while in a cut and thought it had ran out of gas. Refilling it and furiously trying to start it flooded it good. Pulling the plug boot was a chore and I felt like I was going to break it's plastic shield.

Thanks for your replies

 

[Conquistador3]

No, it should look like this:

Your air filter probably got whacked up pretty good in the fall(s). $0 fix: try putting some grease on the lips of the air filter to help it seal properly.

Question #2: sounds about right, or even a bit on the rich side. Smaller Stihl clamshells use very little bar oil, and don't seem to like too thick of an oil to boot. On the MS231 I have been able to go two and half tanks of fuel per one tank of oil.
The MS193T does leave a puddle of oil on the ground after it has worked but if you wipe it clean after, say, 24 hours it will remain as a dry as a bone.

Question #3: you need to insert the scrench or a large screwdriver in the small lip on the spark plug boot like this.

And then pry the boot off using the clamshell as a fulcrum. The place to use as a fulcrum is marked on the left. Sorry but I haven't got three arms.
Here's the relevant passage from the Stihl manual (French, sorry but I haven't got an English language manual for this saw):

It's not a particularly enlightened design, and I think it has been changed in the new MS194T, but Stihl gives the lifespan of the original spark plug at about 100 hours so it's not exactly something you'll be removing every month or so.

Any other question on this saw just ask.

 

[dgr]

A bunch of great answers.

Any other question on this saw just ask.

Thank you very much for the information and taking the time to take pictures.

She doesn't leak once put away. I just have to remember to grab old pants if I'm using this saw.

It looks like there is a foam grommet on the air filter stud. Is that factory?

I can almost read enough of those instructions. "Insert an appropriate tool into the tongue...." Thats the part I was afraid was going to tear. I'll be less worried next time now that I know I'm doing it how Stihl designed it and it rest the tool right where there is a picture of the scrench.

 

[Conquistador3]

These small Stihl saws have a bar oil system, I think it's called Ematic or something like that, with a few idiosyncrasies that require adjusting to. It's not a bad system for shorter bars (up to 16") and it has been improved over the years but you have to wonder since the 193T produces a veritable jet of bar oil when you check oil pump operations (more visible than in many larger saws) but when you go and check the oil it's always kinda there.

To get back to the air filter, yes that grommet is there from the factory. I don't know if it can be ordered as a spare, but I think an adequately sized o-ring will just do the trick.

 

[DND 9000]

He has the older version of the filter base and therefore he has to use the older parts as spare parts. The newer version has that orange sealing ring shown in the picture, but he can`t use these parts with his older version.

 

[dgr]

Good information. Thank you. Is it the stud mount adapter or that plus the actual base that are different?

My kids have some squishy sheets of closed cell foam for projects. I might try to roll my own gasket for the stud

 

[DND 9000]

The filter base, baffle, muffler, cylinder with piston and carburetor are changed on the newer version. These new parts can only be used together as a set. These changes were made to get a better acceleration behavior when the engine is cold and at low temperatures.

 

[dgr]

Where do I order? Kidding. Thank you for the info. Good to know if I need to order parts online. I had no idea they updated anything other than the outlet hole on the muffler. Info on this model is hard to find.