spikes

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JonnyHart

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Mar 31, 2004
Messages
285
Reaction score
6
Location
Buffalo/Niagara Falls
hello maybe I am out of line trying to post a new thread on my first day here, and you probably had this thread in the past, but am I an inconsiderate jerk because I climb with spikes? In this area that is the only way people climb, that was how I learned. Of course I use a saddle, lanyard, and climbing line at the same time, I know there are other ways to get up there, but is any other method as fast? I won't use my gaffs to trim a Beech, Birch, or other smooth bark "pretty tree". But it's a pain in the butt to do it any other way, UNLESS, somebody can guide me in the right direction. Thanx in advance for all replies. Oh yeah, I got my new Sherrill catalog today, don't quite get that other bowline in it, how is it any better or easier than the running bowline?( maybe this belongs in a different thread) be safe
 
Welcome!!

Spiking on trims is hack work.

If you keep an open mind, many people here can show you how to become a great climber, that can climb fast without spikes.
 
Thank you for your quick reply, and I do feel a bit embarassed to trim with spikes, I suppose I need to learn firsthand how to do the footlock method, I understand the body thrust way, but it is a bit tough on tall ascents (maybe I need to see the gym more often). I know in N.J. it is illegal to trim with gaffs, so they can't be good, but like I said, in western N.Y., that is how they do it.
 
Spiking on a tree not being removed is highly frowned upon for a number of legitimate reasons. It's based on solid arboricultural (read as scientific) fact.

It opens up numerous wounds that can invite insects and decay.

It makes the tree bleed out precious sap and use vital nutrients compartmentalizing many more wounds than just your pruning cuts - which when made properly, cause relatively little stress.

It looks like $????, plain and simple. The whole purpose for a customer to pay you to prune a tree is mainly to make it look pretty. Nothing looks worse than a nicely pruned tree with alot of big gaff marks all over the darn thing.

It's considered the sign of a lazy, uneducated, and unprofessional climber.


There are plenty of ways to get up the tree just as fast (if not faster). Stick around awhile, and we'll teach you.
 
Jonny, welcome to Arborist site.

With your attitude, you'll go far...and learn a lot fast about proper tree work, caring for and respecting trees! There's tons of archived info here, if you use the search function. some search terms to try: SRT, DdRT, footlocking, split tail, slack tender, ascenders, Blake's Hitch, Distel Hitch, french prusssic, old school, new school, certified arborist...and much more...help me out guys. For books, get the Tree Climber's companion for starters.
 
Thank you I always try to keep an open mind, and any feedback is welcome. I love to learn, and I don't want to be thought of as a hack, but you can ascend and get out on long branches faster without the use of spikes? Please teach me, because I could gain much more business than any local competitor if I had the knowledge. Also, I usually use a ladder to get up there a little so there ain't spike marks up the main trunk.
 
For starters, what are you wearing on your feet?

I wear hiking boots on trims. I use my lifeline and lanyard to "limbwalk".

FWIW, faster isn't always better. Distinguish yourself by being BETTER than the competition. Quality should ALWAYS come first.
 
I love this site! Thank you for all replys. I wear Wesco Highliners. They are the most comfortable boot for climbing with spikes. Hiking boots are good for without spikes? Would it be a good idea to invest in a Bigshot, throwbag, and slickline? Also I should add that I am on quite a budget, and I am a paid climber, I don't own a business yet, but my gear, and topping saw are mine.
 
At the very least, a throwbag and line are a must. On short hops, I use my biner to chuck my line up. [I use a steel biner because the extra weight works well for just this very purpose, but most guys use aluminum]

Yes, it seems most guys are wearing more comfy footwear for most stuff.

Careful how you say "topping"... don't want ya opening up another can of worms! ;) But we know what you mean.

What are you using for a climbing saw? j/c.
 
Oh yeah, what trees handle spike trimming best? We have alot of silver maple here, and they do well, but about a year and a half ago, I climbed and removed a mid size nearly dead pin oak, and on the same property, trimmed another mid size pin oak. Well, a month later we were back at that property removing the tree I had trimmed. Did I kill it? Did I spread an infection from from one tree to another with my spikes? Is this that sudden oak death, because it was very, very sudden? thanx for all replies.
 
Originally posted by JonnyHart
Oh yeah, what trees handle spike trimming best?

None. That's why it's FROWNED upon.

Did I kill it? Did I spread an infection from from one tree to another with my spikes? Is this that sudden oak death, because it was very, very sudden?


Very possible. And that would open you up to professional liability, by the way. You could be sued for the value of the tree... and mature trees aren't cheap.
 
Whoops! I always try to talk the customer out of topping, but the boss don't like that. He ain't a great boss, but my family is fed. Like I said I don't have alot of extra cash for a nice saw, I have an echo cs300, and it is weak. I'm impressed it has run for the past year and a half, but if I want to, I can always take an 026 up with me.
 
Having run Stihl 020's, and handled the new Husky, I'm still quite satisfied with my old 3400. They aren't really a bad saw at all.


<=========Here's mine in action.
 
Erik I hope I did not come off as sounding cocky, I do not want to offend or butt heads here, but the silvers do take it well. I am a compensated employee, not a sub-contractor or buisiness owner so I am not liable for anything, I was just following the bosses orders. Let me say I do not endorse spikes, and I am not proud that I trim with them, but I do not know any other way. I wish to learn all I can from those who know more than me. Sooo, what do you suggest? Should I save for a little while and get into an arbormaster class?
 
Yeah, my one boss has a tail handled 3400, but my 300 is weak, and I've spent a little time tinkering with the carb. Thanx for fast reply.
 
Didn't take it as sounding cocky. However, you wrote "arborist" in your profile. That opens you up to scrutiny, at least.

Welcome to the site where the elite hang out. Don't be afraid to be humbled or be taken aback. Alot of new people (who thought they knew alot) are bewildered at just how much more there was to learn. Myself included.

If you ever get the chance, those Arbormaster classes seem to help guys out by leaps. Nothing like some hands-on training from the best in the industry. I can't speak from experience, but I can't say I've ever heard anyone say they were sorry they went, but I have heard alot of guys say they were glad they did.

That said, what gives you the most trouble? Getting into the tree to start with or getting out to into thinner wood?

It'd help to know what you're climbing with for gear- saddle, rope, lanyard, etc.
 
FWIW, a good climber properly trained in tree health, safety, proper tree care and climbing techniques can REALLY keep the family fed.

A hack climber may make some money, but I've had climbers I've paid upwards of $20 an hour, because they were worth it. One was making $35 and change.
 
oh yeah, another boss of mine uses a husky 338xpt, not a 335, and it runs great and has mad power, but it has fallen apart, it is missing the muffler cover, and the spark plug cover. He said he never dropped if but a saw has to see some trauma to be in that kind of shape. Like I said it runs like a champ, you just burn and zap yourself if you're not to careful.
 
Originally posted by JonnyHart
I am a compensated employee, not a sub-contractor or buisiness owner so I am not liable for anything, I was just following the bosses orders.

Just a heads up...when presenting yourself as an arborist:

Arborists are considered professionals, not too unlike a doctor. Doctors can be sued personally, as well as their employers for their actions, in some cases. Is it really worth the risk of finding out what those cases may be the hard way?
 
Gaffing any tree should be avoided at all costs, as others have said...

Out here in big tall tree country, there's lots of guys, even certified arborists, that gaff trees.

Absorb knowledge here and elsewhere, get some good equipment, go practice and hone your rope climbing skills on your own time, then get some literature, say form the ISA website, on gaffing, and maybe topping, show it to your boss, tell him you would rather do work a better way, maybe he'll understand.

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/topping.asp
http://www.isa-arbor.com/shared/scripts/search.asp
 
Back
Top