Split tail

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hosocat

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Apologize in advance if this has already been discussed. I searched but couldn't find anything. I have a cougar saddle with the webbing bridge. I've been climbing Blake's, but just recently got a split tail to make advancing a bit quicker. Is there a best way to have a single tie in on the saddle bridge? Right now i clip 2 biners onto bridge, one for splittail and one for terminal end. No problems wit it, but i think id like to get a single tie in to bridge just to clean things up. Any suggestions on what works best?
 
Thanks Jed. That's probably the direction I'm heading. Still a beginner, and getting familiar with the basics and trying to keep it simple for now. Trouble is, I like the gadgets and want to try out different stuff also!
 
Has anyone seen a good solution to the dilemma of not having a spliced eye on the end of the climbing rope and wanting to use a hitch climber pully, since hitch climber recommends against using termination knots on the carabiner attached to the hitch climber?
 
A termination knot is ok as long as it's the correct knot and it doesn't interfere with the hitch. It will make the setup bulkier though. I used a knot for a couple of months before getting an eye splice. I had to play with a couple of different knots tied in different directions to make sure it would hang on the top of my hitch. If it catches on top of your hitch you will fall until you separate the two and the hitch grabs again.
 
Usually something like a scaffold knot can collapse the hitch with the hitchclimber pulley. I'd try the anchor bend, or make a long eye with a figure 8 or Yosemite bowline and girth it to the carabiner.

As for your setup now, a ring on your bridge would work, if your saddle doesn't already have one.
 
I have a weaver cougar with the web bridge. I've been thinking about putting a ring on it but a little nervous about taking it apart to get ring on. But will probably do that. Eventually would like to try the liger setup that I saw on YouTube.

For using hitch climber I have been thinking about tying a figure eight with long loop and then using a couple of bands to form a small eye for biner but i like your girth hitch idea better. Tphanks for the advice guys.
 
Hey friend definitely put a ring on your bridge ASAP. Consider what I do too.. I have sterling power cord (6mm/4000abs) and I tie it to my bridges ring with a double fishermen’s and then about 4 inches out I tie another double fisherman to put a biner through, this prevents cross loading the carabiner on my ascension and saves one biner for connecting the hitch to the bridge
 
Kind of like a diy swivel?

Yea it serves the function of a swivel connector but IMO its better because you don’t have the swivel clanking around every time you andvance, and it’s 1-3$ of cord vs. a 59$ swivel. Double fisherman it probably he same knot you use for you terminal end. Plus like I said it frees up a carabiner since you can attach your split tail directly to the petzl ring open, or just tie a length of rope for a 5$ belay ring with either the double fisherman or anchor knot.
 

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Would appreciate any feedback on this concept. I am looking for a good way to use the hitch climber set up with a rope that does not have a spliced end. The gray component between the two green biners is a petzl sewn sling. It is rated at 22kn. It keeps the anchor hitch on the top biner from interfering with the vt hitch.
 

Would appreciate any feedback on this concept. I am looking for a good way to use the hitch climber set up with a rope that does not have a spliced end. The gray component between the two green biners is a petzl sewn sling. It is rated at 22kn. It keeps the anchor hitch on the top biner from interfering with the vt hitch.

Why not buy an eye to eye and then ditch the sling?
 
I'm not sure how you are thinking about using an e2e. I got the sling because the eyes are really tight and keep the carabiner oriented correctly. It cost about 6 dollars.

I'm just experimenting with ideas for hooking up hitchclimber. Started because I had a nearly new length of arbormaster with no eye splice when I bought my hitchclimber. Since then I've bought a new length of arbormaster and had tree stuff splice an eye in it, which is what I usually use with my hitch climber, but I'm just looking for ways to use hc on my old line so it doesn't go to waste. By the time I would have paid for shipping the old rope two ways it only cost a little more to buy new line with a spliced eye. I don't trust my splicing abilities enough yet to just splice an eye in my old line myself.

Actually, to me the requirement for a splice seems like a significant shortfall in the hc system. Would be much better if you could use a knotted rope with it. If dmm just extended the middle attachment point hole by about half an inch i think that would provide enough clearance to safely use a termination knot.
 
Looks ok to me. Once I got a line with an eye splice I used the other for rigging and just climb on the lines with a splice. I can make a climb line last quite a while so I keep 3 with splices and the rest get used for rigging. I don't always want a splice in every situation so I can always use the other end.
 
I'm not sure how you are thinking about using an e2e. I got the sling because the eyes are really tight and keep the carabiner oriented correctly. It cost about 6 dollars.

I'm just experimenting with ideas for hooking up hitchclimber. Started because I had a nearly new length of arbormaster with no eye splice when I bought my hitchclimber. Since then I've bought a new length of arbormaster and had tree stuff splice an eye in it, which is what I usually use with my hitch climber, but I'm just looking for ways to use hc on my old line so it doesn't go to waste. By the time I would have paid for shipping the old rope two ways it only cost a little more to buy new line with a spliced eye. I don't trust my splicing abilities enough yet to just splice an eye in my old line myself.

Actually, to me the requirement for a splice seems like a significant shortfall in the hc system. Would be much better if you could use a knotted rope with it. If dmm just extended the middle attachment point hole by about half an inch i think that would provide enough clearance to safely use a termination knot.

Splice on your main line is what I meant.
 
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