Splitter Build

[breymeyerfam]

Well, I have went on a shopping spree.
Engine - Lifan 15hp(Home Depot)
Magister hydraulics 5x24x2.5 cylinder
Wedge cylinder and filter base
2x10 tie rod lift cylinder
Valves, 22gpm pump

 

[WoodTick007]

Li

Well, I have went on a shopping spree.
Engine - Lifan 15hp(Home Depot)
Magister hydraulics 5x24x2.5 cylinder
Wedge cylinder and filter base - surplus center
2x10 tie rod lift cylinder - ebay
Valves, dump valve, 22gpm pump - splitez

Lifan good. . .replace string on pull cord.

 

[breymeyerfam]

The Magister 5x24x2.5 cylinder came in today. I purchased it from magister at a discount as it was lost by UPS and returned to them scratched up. Cylinder is as expected when I got it. Paint has been touched up, good shape otherwise. Build quality looks good with pretty decent looking welds.

 

[breymeyerfam]

Was pretty pleased until I pulled the port plugs out to have a peek inside...
VERY UNDERSIZE and not centered holes through the wall! Holes measure about .400".

Looks like this brand new cylinder will be getting tore apart so I can clamp it up in the mill to re-center and open the holes up to at least 3/4".

I will be contacting the manufacturer to see what they have to say about it. Their website says they manufacture to US specs... well the j1926 spec states the minimum through hole for this port size(sae12), is .609" and 3/4 nominal.

 

[NSMaple1]

Interesting....

 

[breymeyerfam]

Alex from Magister quickly responded and said he would contact the engineer at the factory in Europe and that he was sorry for the inconvenience. He responded this afternoon saying that I was the first person to report this issue, and all the 5 inch cylinders in the warehouse here in the states were the same way. The engineer agreed that this was incorrect. Alex offered me 3 options right away. Full refund and return; Exchange when new cylinders were made correctly and shipped from Europe(3 months); Or partial refund and I keep the cylinder. I chose the route of partial refund and will fix myself. I felt that same day answers dealing with an over seas factory was pretty good. I still would have rather received a correctly manufactured cylinder from the start, but Magister offered prompt resolution.

 

[dave_dj1]

Alex from Magister quickly responded and said he would contact the engineer at the factory in Europe and that he was sorry for the inconvenience. He responded this afternoon saying that I was the first person to report this issue, and all the 5 inch cylinders in the warehouse here in the states were the same way. The engineer agreed that this was incorrect. Alex offered me 3 options right away. Full refund and return; Exchange when new cylinders were made correctly and shipped from Europe(3 months); Or partial refund and I keep the cylinder. I chose the route of partial refund and will fix myself. I felt that same day answers dealing with an over seas factory was pretty good. I still would have rather received a correctly manufactured cylinder from the start, but Magister offered prompt resolution.

So what's the plan? Disassemble the cylinder and drill them out or dremmel tool them out?
Seems kind of odd that they would sell these with such a small hole for a larger port.

 

[Yarz]

So what's the plan? Disassemble the cylinder and drill them out or dremmel tool them out?

From above:

Looks like this brand new cylinder will be getting tore apart so I can clamp it up in the mill to re-center and open the holes up to at least 3/4".

I'm interested to see the process, as I have a cylinder from another seller that has a similar issue.

 

[breymeyerfam]

I will be disassembling the cylinder. You could just drill them out larger, but that would just follow where these holes are located, off center. I will clamp the cylinder in the mill and bore the holes to size centered in the fitting. If there is interest, I can create another thread documenting the disassembly, rework, and reassembly of this welded cylinder with a threaded end cap.

 

[dave_dj1]

I will be disassembling the cylinder. You could just drill them out larger, but that would just follow where these holes are located, off center. I will clamp the cylinder in the mill and bore the holes to size centered in the fitting. If there is interest, I can create another thread documenting the disassembly, rework, and reassembly of this welded cylinder with a threaded end cap.

I for one would be interested in the process if you have time.

 

[WoodTick007]

I for one would be interested in the process if you have time.

I would be interested. I curious to the quality of the internal components.

 

[kevin j]

I would like to know what the rod seal is, if there is a rod wiper, what the piston seals are (lip or orings or solid band), and if there is a wear band on the piston.
No particular reason, just like to know what technology is used at what price point in the consumer world. My background is all heavy duty mobile stuff.

 

[breymeyerfam]

The cylinder is reworked. First off I removed the end cap by unthreading it. My spanner, wasn't big enough to get it loose, so I got out the "little" pipe wrench to pop it, then unthreaded with the spanner. Then pulled the rod and piston out.

 

[breymeyerfam]

Set up on the mill with 5/8 end mill to put the holes where I want them. My sae12 fittings have an I.D. of .615", so I made the holes in the cylinder .625

The open end was straight forward. Put the holes in and chamfered.

The cap end would be tricky to do if you didn't have a mill. The end cap passes roughly 1/3 past the edge of my new hole. I milled down in past the bore roughly an inch to give the fluid a good flow path. Of course there was a square step left that I tapered using a regular 5/8 drill bit. Not the best way to do this, as I would have rather used a ball nose end mill, but I didn't have one in 5/8.
View attachment 628251

Finally I deburred, cleaned, and flushed. Reassembled in reverse order. Ready to continue fabbing the cylinder mounts

 

[breymeyerfam]

I would like to know what the rod seal is, if there is a rod wiper, what the piston seals are (lip or orings or solid band), and if there is a wear band on the piston.

I have a re-pack set. I will take a picture of the rod seals. You can see the rest in the previous pics

 

[WoodTick007]

Is there a reason you did not open the hole even with the threads? Do you feel a handheld die grinder would work? What was/is the wall thickness of the cylinder .25"?

 

[breymeyerfam]

Is there a reason you did not open the hole even with the threads? Do you feel a handheld die grinder would work? What was/is the wall thickness of the cylinder .25"?

The wall thickness is .25

Reasons for not going larger on the size opening:
1. My sae12 fittings are only .615 I.D. and going much larger would not help since the fitting is the bottle neck now.
2. Piston/ glad cap design & rear port location limits size. The tail part of the piston bottoms on the gland cap and if I went much larger fluid would flow right into the side of the piston. Pic below shows this condition:

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

For guys out there building stuff, there's another thing I'd suggest to watch for. When you get a new cylinder cycle it before you install. I have done this for years after getting burned. You can do it by turning the regulator down on you air hose with a hand held gun. SLOWLY apply air to let it move. reason is I've had several off shore cylinders that had rust on the inside of the bore from water getting in or condensation forming. Even worse is that now some cylinders are not even chromed. Most of the cheap jacks are doing this know. Any rust or pits will kill the seals quickly so do not accept them.

 

[breymeyerfam]

I have a re-pack set. I will take a picture of the rod seals. You can see the rest in the previous pics

 

[breymeyerfam]

Over the last week or so, ups and fed-ex have been very frequent visitors! I now have all of the components to finish except hydraulic hoses.

Worked on the cylinder mounts. Roughed out bushings on the lathe and welded to the plates.

Bored bushing and plate to 1.520

Next step will be to finally cut down this beam to length and weld the mounts in place.