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Splitter Ram moving slow in both directions

kenc18901

kenc18901

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I have a 28ton Huskee log splitter. I have been using it for 2 years with no problem. On this occasion I was returning the ram back to the top position and all was working fine. When I tried to extend the ram to split, the ram started moving ridiculously slow. It moves slow in both directions now. I replaced the dent valve, did not fix. It looks like the lovejoy is spinning from the motor to the pump so it is not sheared(at least not internally). I am changing the oil and filter today hoping that it may be a clogged filter. Are there any other checks that I can make? Like removing a hose and cycling the valve to see if I have oil movement? If I leave the dented in the return position the pump builds up pressure to reset the valve.
 
lone wolf

lone wolf

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I have a 28ton Huskee log splitter. I have been using it for 2 years with no problem. On this occasion I was returning the ram back to the top position and all was working fine. When I tried to extend the ram to split, the ram started moving ridiculously slow. It moves slow in both directions now. I replaced the dent valve, did not fix. It looks like the lovejoy is spinning from the motor to the pump so it is not sheared(at least not internally). I am changing the oil and filter today hoping that it may be a clogged filter. Are there any other checks that I can make? Like removing a hose and cycling the valve to see if I have oil movement? If I leave the dented in the return position the pump builds up pressure to reset the valve.
I aint a hyd guy but i would think a pressure gauge installed might tell you something.
 
kenc18901

kenc18901

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I was contemplating a gauge. I need to figure out if it is a lovejoy slipping, a pump seal bad or a clog. Thank you , any help is great, I just need a direction to go instead of heading out in the dark.
 
kenc18901

kenc18901

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I haven't found any metal. If I put the log splitter in the return position it will kick the valve into the neutral position after bottoming out
 
kenc18901

kenc18901

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Just slow, like in low gear. If I can wait for it to make a full cycle I can get it low enough to put a log in it to see what it does.
 
JeffHK454

JeffHK454

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I’ve seen crud get in the psi sensing valve that controls the switching between high and low flow ...ether it’s fast and wouldn’t split wood or it’s slow as hell but splits Like it should.
 
sean donato

sean donato

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You need a pressure gauge to see what the pumps doing. I've been told it kicks stages around 700 (ish) psi. If the key in the engine shaft broke the love joy could slip, but that should be obvious. (I would think) there is also a possibility Blythe packing in your cylinder is shot, but that would be the last thing I would look at. The valve in the pump would be most likely to check after making sure the key in the coupler is good, on both the engine and pump side.
 
kenc18901

kenc18901

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Haven't located a gauge yet. Topped off the hydraulic fluid, replaced filter with Napa 1553 , ran about 4 full cycles and ram still moves at a snails pace. Placed a piece of oak sideways at the bottom. Motor didn't struggle and did not stall. Ram pushed its way through the wood. Pump got a high pitched whine, but pushed through. When I allow the ram to fully retracted so that the dent valve will stop on its own pump will get that high pitched whine before returning to neutral. Motor never seems to struggle. I pulled a magnet along the bottom of the hydro tank and I only pulled up what looked like to be a large spring. No metal shavings. No noticeable leaks either. Lovejoy seems to be happy.
 
triptester

triptester

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The only spring that could be found in the hydraulic system is the spring from the return filter by-pass valve. If the plastic by-pass valve broke the plastic could be obstructing flow of oil getting to pump.
 
kenc18901

kenc18901

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I guess the next step would be to remove the hose that goes from the hydraulic tank to the pump to make sure that it isn't clogged. The thing that I find wired is that the hose that goes from the tank to the pump is near the top of the tank and not the bottom. There would need to be a internal straw that dips into the fluid.
 
aokpops

aokpops

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Every time this happen was always the pump . Went from a 11 gallon to 16 gallon pump then had to buy a bigger engine . Absolutely no regrets doing this the cycle time is much faster . Burn about half the fuel I did this in 2012 The engine and pump still runs great . Always upgrade when stuff breaks make it better stronger faster . Be a engineer see what's broke fix better at minimum cost .
 
kenc18901

kenc18901

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So I pulled off the Straight Fitting that connects the tank to a hose that goes to the inlet of the pump. There was a piece of plastic that may have been a reverse flow check. It was positioned in such a way that it was restricting flow to the pump. It was moving back and forth with which ever way the flow of the hydraulic fluid went. I can't find this piece in the schematics.
 
lone wolf

lone wolf

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So I pulled off the Straight Fitting that connects the tank to a hose that goes to the inlet of the pump. There was a piece of plastic that may have been a reverse flow check. It was positioned in such a way that it was restricting flow to the pump. It was moving back and forth with which ever way the flow of the hydraulic fluid went. I can't find this piece in the schematics.
Try without it and see?
 
kenc18901

kenc18901

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From an older post I believe may be a one way check flow valve. I put the splitter back together and it was operating like it should. I think it actually extends and retracts faster. I put a piece of wood sideways and it pushed through. The engine doesn't stall and when returning the valve release when it reaches the end, like it is suppose to. Spring was found in supply tank and the black plug was found in the end of the supply hose closest to the tank. I assume that these closed off the supply tube so that fluid stayed in the pump? This part is no where in my parts schematic.
 

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