Splitter upgrades

[FlyingDutchman]

Home bilt splitter. I want to do one upgrade to it this year.

Single stage 8gpm on 16hp single cylinder Kohler, very worn tapered I beam with single fixed wedge, twin low pressure 3" cylinders just rebuilt, leaking loader control valve with no auto return. The hydraulic oil is milky, assuming waterlogged and will need to be changed so a decent time to make a change. The cycle time is very slow, but it does everything I need it to do and rarely doesn't split something I put in there. It has no splitting table, stuff just hits the ground.

I split to 25-27" so it's indispensable for my system, 80% of the wood gets split with it. I don't want to spend a ton of money, but boosting productivity is good.

I'm torn between a splitting table and an auto return valve.

 

[kevin j]

Two stage pump. Dramatically increase your speed. A table you can make out of plywood

 

[Patrick62]

change the pump, 16gpm, minimum.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

As suggested, a splitter table can be built from scrap material, as was this one. I bought some bolts for the frame work.
I used it for ten years, sold it about five years ago, and it is still being used. Another upgrade is, hum, forgot what they are called. Stroke reducing something. You can find them at TSC for $30 bucks. Because you have two cylinders, you will need two. A detent valve is an obvious upgrade if your valve is already leaking. Definitely drain off the oil and recycle at most auto parts stores. Again TSC has 5 gallon jugs of 32 and 46 weight.
Stroke reducing collars. They come in a small pack of three or four, each a different width. They are soft aluminum, two piece with spring clip, that slides over the cylinder rod. They can be used in combination to reduce the stroke to your desired length. Ex. If your cylinders have a 24" stroke, but you cut your rounds to 16", you can reduce the stroke by 6" to 18". If you come across a 20" round, simply pull the stroke reducing collars off, split the odd ball piece, and replace the collars for the next 16" round. All quite simple.

Note of caution:
There is a YouTube video of a guy with a splitter that failed because of these collars. The devise, push plate or wedge, was threaded on the rod, and the treads failed. He replaced the cylinder at great expense. I think it was a Timberwolf brand but don't hold me to it. My push plate was pinned with a bolt through the cylinder rod end and I replaced the bolts once or twice a year. I did not use grade 8 bolts, rather softer sacrificial bolts.
You can see the stroke reducing collars in the photos on this thirty plus year old SpeeCo.
Also note the table extends well beyond the wedge to catch the off side splits for re-splitting.
This bench has a lower ledge that supports the beam, keeping the top flange level with the table. The table can also be used on either side.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

I am finding that a table is essential and other modifications. You can run a 22 CFM pump with a sixteen HP engine with no problem. The issue of bigger hoses, bigger ports and valve will also need to be addressed. Of course at your pace. Thanks

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Probably the biggest problem with a 2 stage is that there's a broken bolt on the engine where the pump basket mounts, was a ground screw or something on the mower. A couple attempts to remove failed and broke it off more. We could modify the current pump mount (which accommodates an extinct Hydreco pump mount pattern for a CAT bulldozer pump from the 50's.)

I have a huge hydraulic tank capable of supporting a 22-28 gpm pump. With the current pump, I struggle to get the oil hot which is why I think I have a water problem. Also, cost. A pump change would make a pretty big splash plumbing, mounting wise. But speed would really help it, I agree.

I use every millimeter of stroke basically every cycle. I have a Speeco that splits smaller stuff great, but my current rack system and my boiler relies on longer pieces that need big cycles every time. I feel like an auto cycle valve -forward and reverse- like the prince RD-5200 would save time with my hand on the lever and allow me to stage/stack etc and would be cheaper than a pump upgrade overall. Anyone ever use one?

I move the splitter quite a bit so I had envisioned a table fixed to the machine, but those look pretty simple and effective

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Flying I quit worrying about water in the oil as it disappears quickly. I think I could pour a half a gallon of water in the oil tank and it would be gone in a few days. I do not suggest doing that however if your system does not get warm then maybe it is not going to be effective. Thanks

 

[Big_Eddy]

So - what do you want to improve? What are you "hanging around waiting for"?
If you split your piece, it falls on the ground, you are ready for another one - but wait - you need to hold the handle FOREVER until it fully retracts the cylinder BEFORE you can walk away to get the next one - then auto-return valve.
If you have a helper feeding you rounds faster than you can split and return the ram anyway - then 2 speed pump.
If every log you split is 30" in diameter, and you bust your back picking chunks off the ground and repositioning on the beam - then splitter table.

Figure out what slows you down / annoys you the most - and address it first.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

I move the splitter quite a bit so I had envisioned a table fixed to the machine, but those look pretty simple and effective

Actually, I moved mine quite a bit also. Used a two wheel cart to move the table, or flipped it upside down and slid it in the mini van when towing. Keep it simple.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Ted, I was thinking about changing the fluid with the improved component. If it was a 2 stage, I'd probably leave it and burn the water out lol.

anyone have any luck with the Chinese pumps vs American pumps? I used to sell a lot of the Chinese pumps (Dynamic brand) at the hydraulic shop I worked at and never had a problem, the equivalent MTE or other is nearly double. Regardless, this will eventually be a 20gpm plus machine, big production in mind. Baby steps, though.

Big Eddy, I'm mostly standing there with my hand on the lever. With people to help and keep it busy, its not such a bad deal as they can stage while you stand there. But seldom get help. A splitting table won't be terrible for any reason, and would be the cheapest thing to do. Takes 2 hour plus to split a pickup of wood by myself.

This is the auto cycle valve I was looking at. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...g-Splitter-Valve-w-Power-Beyond-9-6587-PB.axd

 

[blades]

that power beyond is a handy feature to add a log lift or something along those lines.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

When I am moving it takes about 45 minutes to produce a cord. This is with the pickup loaded and backed right up to the splitter. For all others it takes two hours mostly because the wood is wet and heavy. I am wanting to finish a splitter that I started that is targeted to be some what of a processor. I will have some hydraulics on the table and a good log lift. Thanks

 

[rancher2]

IMO I wouldn't have a splitter without a log lift, valve with detent return and a some sort of splitting table. I have had two of the autocycle valves not impressed. The one got taken off the splitter when it was sold to a buddy and a detent return valve was installed. He didn't like messing with it. The other one is on my homemade processor and it does work but it takes a fair amount of adjustment to keep it working. Its operation changes as the weather and oil temp changes. Another question I would have will the low pressure loader cylinders your splitter is running take a hyd up grade. I went threw that problem on a dirt scraper I bought 25 years ago it had been pull by a smaller crawler and it hyds maybe max at 1800 or 2000 PSI we started pulling it with a four wheel drive farm tractor that was running 3000 to 3500 PSI and after blowing a couple cylinders out we had to put pressure reducing valves in the system and then we had no more cylinder issues. If your beam has a lot of wear like you said maybe its time to keep a eye out on craig's list, facebook , garage sales and estate sales and pickup a different splitter. Summer is coming and some buys on splitters will be out there.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Rancher, thanks for the advice about the auto cycle valves. I had a feeling they were exactly what you said they are.

yes, the system pressure what I'm working with is comparably low. The head glands loosen on the tie rod cylinders loosen and you can see the head and rod glands walking around and they are only 3 tie bolt cylinders. I need new lock washers on the tie bolts. I would say 2000 ish is about all the system does.

It splits just fine and will split some ugly crap. My friend and I used it for about an hour last night, split 2 truckloads of snaggly 2 man pieces into one man pieces so I could finish up and get them split finer. My friend did the staging and it split about as fast as we could load it with some waiting on the cycle times. Keeping your hand on for the reverse cycle is the most annoying. So is picking stuff up off the ground.

I spent a fair deal of time/ money getting this one going a couple years ago so im not quite ready to ditch it (plus dad grandfather built it)

Ted and Rancher, a log lift was also in the plans, but it could be useful as like a "ramp" to go from the truck bed to the beam if it was built right. I generally avoid dropping anything out of the truck bed at all unless its on the splitter!

 

[Big_Eddy]

Big Eddy, I'm mostly standing there with my hand on the lever. With people to help and keep it busy, its not such a bad deal as they can stage while you stand there. But seldom get help.

In that case - first thing I would do is install an auto-return (not auto-cycle) valve. Split a piece, click to return - go get another round. Because you are off to get the next piece, the slow single stage pump return time doesn't matter - it is likely back before you are anyway.
Depending on the size of your rounds, a splitting table could be next. I have no need for one myself - I have 4 way split and very very little wood that ever needs splitting more than 4 ways.
OR - a staging table to hold rounds before splitting - in which case return speed will start to become an issue, making a 2 stage pump worthwhile.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Does anyone know who makes a detent return single spool log splitter valve that has power beyond capability? I'd like to keep the old valve there for a log lift. So far the only one I can find is the Prince Auto Cycle valves that have that capability.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

Does anyone know who makes a detent return single spool log splitter valve that has power beyond capability? I'd like to keep the old valve there for a log lift. So far the only one I can find is the Prince Auto Cycle valves that have that capability.

I am not sure what you are trying to do. If you want a log lift the common thing to do is add a SMALL valve and line from the high side and send the return before the filter or after since you will have little flow. I have never thought about having the lift with a auto return. Thanks

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Sorry I didn't explain myself well. I have an old open center loader control valve that is being used as the directional control of the twin cylinders for the splitter. One section is capped and the linkage disconnected. It's on one side of the splitter. Hard to reach from the other side because the stacked cylinders are tall. This setup is just fine if you have someone to operate the valve.

I'd like to add a normal log splitter valve on top of the cylinders that's easier to reach from both sides, but Also retain the 2 section valve by having the log splitter valve be power beyond.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Flying I quit worrying about water in the oil as it disappears quickly. I think I could pour a half a gallon of water in the oil tank and it would be gone in a few days. I do not suggest doing that however if your system does not get warm then maybe it is not going to be effective. Thanks

Water in hydraulic oil to the point that it's milky will ruin pumps quickly.

 

[rancher2]

Sorry I didn't explain myself well. I have an old open center loader control valve that is being used as the directional control of the twin cylinders for the splitter. One section is capped and the linkage disconnected. It's on one side of the splitter. Hard to reach from the other side because the stacked cylinders are tall. This setup is just fine if you have someone to operate the valve.

I'd like to add a normal log splitter valve on top of the cylinders that's easier to reach from both sides, but Also retain the 2 section valve by having the log splitter valve be power beyond.

I would just remove the valve you have and look at surplus center model 9-7414 valve that has a spool for the splitter with a detent return and a spool for a log lift or wedge lift and it also has the power beyond plug if you want a log lift and a wedge lift later.