Splitter upgrades

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Rancher. I like that valve. However for packaging I was hoping for a single spool valve and putting it up by the cylinders to be reached from both sides.

Prince makes one. RD513CE5A4B1. But it is not in stock anywhere. P&J products who lists it on their website (Splitez) said it was a slow mover and isn't worth stocking and they won't be stocking it anymore.
 
Sorry I didn't explain myself well. I have an old open center loader control valve that is being used as the directional control of the twin cylinders for the splitter. One section is capped and the linkage disconnected. It's on one side of the splitter. Hard to reach from the other side because the stacked cylinders are tall. This setup is just fine if you have someone to operate the valve.

I'd like to add a normal log splitter valve on top of the cylinders that's easier to reach from both sides, but Also retain the 2 section valve by having the log splitter valve be power beyond.
A four spool valve is the most common valve I have every seen on a splitter with auto detent. In neutral oil can flow with out moving any thing, push valve one way and cylinder extends. Push valve opposite and cylinder retracts under pressure. Leave it in reverse with the spring under tension and will retract cylinder until bottoms out and creates a surge in pressure which will put selector back to neutral. If you want to operate any other devices one will need a bank of valves or another valve installed on high side.

Two valves are not necessary to have several locations to operate splitter. A cable is one option and have seen a foot control to operate valve. Do not like that option myself. A rod or tubing to allow for handle elsewhere. This can be very reliable providing set up is very substantial. I like throttle mounted on handle myself. Thanks
 
A four spool valve is the most common valve I have every seen on a splitter with auto detent. In neutral oil can flow with out moving any thing, push valve one way and cylinder extends. Push valve opposite and cylinder retracts under pressure. Leave it in reverse with the spring under tension and will retract cylinder until bottoms out and creates a surge in pressure which will put selector back to neutral. If you want to operate any other devices one will need a bank of valves or another valve installed on high side.

Two valves are not necessary to have several locations to operate splitter. A cable is one option and have seen a foot control to operate valve. Do not like that option myself. A rod or tubing to allow for handle elsewhere. This can be very reliable providing set up is very substantial. I like throttle mounted on handle myself. Thanks

Most splitter valves are single spool.
 
I always thought that the single handle control valve on most splitters was a single spool valve. I have a tie rod cylinder that I was trying to get parts for which is clearly marked Prince, While ordering the parts I asked the guy in the shop about a 28 GPM VS, 22 GPM control valve and he said a four spool valve that could be used for either pump and I said yes. He sent some info for both valves so I assume I understood correctly what he was talking about. It does not matter either four spool or single spool to me.

One thing that maybe should be added is there are are valves with power beyond or an additional valve to operate additional items such as a log lift or hydraulic winch.
Thanks
 
Ted, I want the power beyond so I can keep my old valve and use it for log lift or a crane/winch or other things. That single spool power beyond valve is over 200 bucks, though, finally found one. You can get a lot more for your money with multiple other types of valves they sell.
The cheapest route would be a standard auto cycle valve with my old valve bypassed
 
Ted, I want the power beyond so I can keep my old valve and use it for log lift or a crane/winch or other things. That single spool power beyond valve is over 200 bucks, though, finally found one. You can get a lot more for your money with multiple other types of valves they sell.
The cheapest route would be a standard auto cycle valve with my old valve bypassed
I can assure you if I understand correctly in that what you are explaining is wrong. A typical set up for a log lift and winch are two very different issues. If you have a motor that will operate a winch the flow rate required might be a very large amount of GPM. What is not needed is a large flow rate for a log lift. First a log lift has a small cylinder most often so it does not need many gallons or speed. If you open that thing up it is possible to launch your wood over to the neighbors house. A small valve with small hoses seems like the best to me. I would think that one could find some used hydraulic stuff that is both affordable and very functional. thanks
 
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