I'd like to know what you are calling "flared out". Clues would help. Maybe it's the difference between N GA and S CT wood, but I find it real difficult to get any of my mauls stuck, either your "epic fail" Wetterlings/Hultafors head shape or the fully flat face of the Mueller or the bulges of the Council. All those varieties work well for me. All have almost exactly the same taper at the edge. Seems to me, an effective head shape has a couple of things to do well: 1. get the (sharp) edge between fibers on either side. 2. move the fibers apart without excessive frictional losses or exploding them at innocent bystanders. (Can it, Bob.) 3. keep the fibers sufficiently spread so the ends of the split faces can't hit the handle. It's interesting to see how different paths can lead to the same goal.