Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

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Philbert, when I shinned myself with my x17 I didn't miss, I hit the target but slightly off to the side. It took the corner of and deflected the axe enough to then miss the 20-22" wide block beneath. Thankfully most of the energy was absorbed...I needed 3 stitches.

I'm back to using low blocks.
 
Got out this morning after the rain moved on.

First here is my review of the X-25: This tool worked much better than I anticipated. For the wood I was splitting, this was the peer of the X-27. Granted I'm already used to using a shorter handled tool but I think you can get a faster swing with less effort because you need to wind up to get that long handled X-27 going. When I get into larger wood in the future where a "kowabunga" swing is needed, this opinion may change but time will tell.

Secondly the X-25 is very similar in length to the Husky S2800 but it feels much better balanced. On a tangent, I noticed the same thing on the GB splitting axe I tried this spring as well; it just felt better in your hands than the S2800. With that being said the S2800 did outmuscle both X series tools in the larger rounds. So you need to decide if feel or productivity is more important to you. I know I can put more splits in the pile faster with the Husky than I can the X-27 but that's a different discussion.

On another tangent, I wonder if 32" is the optimum handle length? Seems that for me (being 5' 11"), 36" is a bit long and 27/28" is a bit short. Maybe another reason I liked that GB.

I pulled out dad's True Temper tools as well. The big axe really swings nice and was splitting right alongside the modern tools. The maul, which I don't care for as much due to its overstrike damage prone "sledge eye" handle, split wood fine but wasn't nearly as natural to swing despite having the same head weight as the big axe. Mauls don't really have much of a place in my splitting arsenal unless I'm out east where you need their mass and ability to be pounded through with a sledge when dealing with the tougher species.

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Tried to show the results of a single swing in equal wood.
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The oldies but goodies.
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Some real pretty wood here.
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So in review, if you like the X-27 but it feels a bit long for you, then you will love the X-25. I'm happy with the purchase.
 
I like that true temper axe ,handle has a nice curve ,is that a 32 or 36 ? 4 lb head ? The husky head looks a little heavier than the fiskars also ,maybe the weight is why it gets the production ?
 
I stand 5'8, swing a 36" handle, and split blocks that are typically 16" high. Standard trigonometry (52" shoulder height, 24" arm length, 36" handle, 16" block) puts the top of the block 48" out from my shins and 3' below my shoulder height. (standard 3,4,5 triangle - neat how that works out). For illustration purposes - assume I'm standing straight up without bending at the knees or waist.
Using the same dimensions and axe, if I miss the log and overswing, the tip of the ax is going to strike the ground / safety log 30" ahead of my shins. Lots of room there to spare.

Take the same me, with a 24" axe handle and the block on the ground. I now need to bend my knees or waist to be able to hit the log comfortably. Assuming a 4" knee bend, the distance from shins to block is reduced to 36". Not bad. But with the short axe, if I miss the log and overswing, the axe tip hits the ground right in front of my toes. Yowzer!!

With the same 24" handled axe, if I lift the block up onto a 12" splitting block, then the increased height makes it unnecessary to bend the knees, and it increases the distance between my knees and the block top to a more comfortable 42", but without a knee bend, a missed swing rotates all the way through and embeds itself into my shins about 4" off the ground. Not good at all.

I like to place a small (6"-8" dia) log on the ground and place my blocks behind it. That way my axe doesn't pass all the way through the block and into the ground. It passes through the block until it strikes the safety log, preventing damage to the edge. Plus it gives the blocks something to lean against so they don't fall over.

Everyone has their own methods. I like my 36" handled axe. It works for me. Either way - be safe out there!!
 
I like that true temper axe ,handle has a nice curve ,is that a 32 or 36 ? 4 lb head ? The husky head looks a little heavier than the fiskars also ,maybe the weight is why it gets the production ?
Brian that big axe is a 6# with a handle that's a bit over 36".

The Husky axe head is quite a lot beefier but with similar design (i.e. copied) to Fiskars.
 
Speaking of overstrikes, I had a chunk of maple that opened up on the far side but hinged on the close side and did this to the big axe. Will sand and dab a bit of BLO on there later.

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I think the Stihl (not sure who makes it) might be the better of the three but the X25 ain't no slouch , the GB is the nicest for feel but the other two will make easier work of the tougher wood .

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This Ochsenkopf , about the same length as the other three seams to be the best of the bunch but it might be a little heavier , I'll have to dig them all out some day and weigh them .
The GB has a built in tin protector , it works beautifully so I made one for the Ox , I formed a heavy gauge piece of sheet metal around it the welded and pinned it , works like it should .
I'm 5'8" , I prefer to split on the ground in a tire or a piece of 2x12 , I prefer the shorties for aim and speed but I also like my Isocore lol
 
Since it was drizzling yesterday I sprayed the heads of all of the axes I used with WD-40 and tucked them under the overhang on the cabin. Well we got 3" of snow with 30 mph winds so they were all covered this morning so I'll dry them out and hit them again.

IMG_0162.JPG
 
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I think the Stihl (not sure who makes it) might be the better of the three but the X25 ain't no slouch , the GB is the nicest for feel but the other two will make easier work of the tougher wood .

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This Ochsenkopf , about the same length as the other three seams to be the best of the bunch but it might be a little heavier , I'll have to dig them all out some day and weigh them .
The GB has a built in tin protector , it works beautifully so I made one for the Ox , I formed a heavy gauge piece of sheet metal around it the welded and pinned it , works like it should .
I'm 5'8" , I prefer to split on the ground in a tire or a piece of 2x12 , I prefer the shorties for aim and speed but I also like my Isocore lol
Dan, do you think that GB could use a longer handle? That one is pretty short. The one I used had a 32" and felt about perfect.
 
Dan, do you think that GB could use a longer handle? That one is pretty short. The one I used had a 32" and felt about perfect.

As far as I know they call the 32" a maul and I believe the head is different , I've not scored the maul yet and I'd have to start a "GoFundMe" thinggy to at the 200 Cnd Kopecs it would cost me to find out .
My local LeeValley store has one in stock if anyone wanted me to do a head to head comparison ...
 
Speaking of overstrikes, I had a chunk of maple that opened up on the far side but hinged on the close side and did this to the big axe. Will sand and dab a bit of BLO on there later.

View attachment 609027

And this is why Ben doesn't and can't have nice stuff. :laughing:

And still no S3600 from Husky. Sheesh.:mad:
 
As far as I know they call the 32" a maul and I believe the head is different , I've not scored the maul yet and I'd have to start a "GoFundMe" thinggy to at the 200 Cnd Kopecs it would cost me to find out .
My local LeeValley store has one in stock if anyone wanted me to do a head to head comparison ...
I believe they offer the actual splitting axe in 3 lengths with the longest being 32". I'll check in a bit.
 
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