Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

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Most of the time, yes, but on big rounds that have been sitting, or anything with a twisted grain or gnarly knots it'll still stick like anything else. Easy enough extract with the ol' palm push, but if the round or piece is light enough to lift overhead, I'll just invert it and slam the log into the bit by swinging the poll end onto the chopping block which usually takes care of un-sticking it and and splitting the piece.

I kind of quit following this thread when the ax restoration thread got going, so this reply is a bit old. I always liked splitting nice straight grained Oak in front of people that have never split wood. Just to show off. Bring the ax in at a little angle and throw the pieces into a pile. Then come to a knot, they would look at you like, "how ya gonna split that knot wise guy"? I'd stick the ax into the knot, swing the whole thing up in the air, rotate it in one smooth motion, and bring it down on the poll. The knot would explode in two pieces, their eyes would bug out, that's how you split a knot with an ax. Glad to see some one else does the same thing. Just look at the physics in it. If you get 30-40 pounds accelerating from 7-8 feet in the air, coming to an instant stop! That's a lot of force, Joe.
 
A simple strike protection you can make at home is with leather. Put holes along two sides, wrap it aroung wood & tie together with a leather lace...think doing up your shoes. Have the holes and lace at the top. That works well & looks crafty. Another is just paracord or starter rope. When you change a pull start rope that's worn, recycle it by wrapping or splicing around handle. Last one for the homemade is just sheet metal cut, wrapped & secured with pins.
 
Picked up this monster today for $325. Guy bought it while in Maine a few years ago and couldn’t get it running. In his defense, he said he isn’t a mechanical guy and the motor stalled and wouldn’t fire back up. Betting the carb is gunked up.

This thing is a monster! 13’ long. 40” ram. Hydraulic height adjustment on the wedge. The table is made out of 1/8” steel. And it has a 10 hp techumsa motor hooked direct drive to the pump.

Looks like some local guy in Maine was producing these. Has A bead welded to the pusher that says S/M and the wedge has a serial number punched into the top.

I can’t wait to get this thing running!
 

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The arvika showed up ,i burned the handle buckin style and put boiled linseed on it ,was too light still at that point so wiped some stain on it ,color is called proventialView attachment 609662

Nice touch, I burned the handle to raise the grain and oiled on my Helko Splataxt for better purchase, also looks cool to boot! Did you sharpen it yet?

I kind of quit following this thread when the ax restoration thread got going, so this reply is a bit old. I always liked splitting nice straight grained Oak in front of people that have never split wood. Just to show off. Bring the ax in at a little angle and throw the pieces into a pile. Then come to a knot, they would look at you like, "how ya gonna split that knot wise guy"? I'd stick the ax into the knot, swing the whole thing up in the air, rotate it in one smooth motion, and bring it down on the poll. The knot would explode in two pieces, their eyes would bug out, that's how you split a knot with an ax. Glad to see some one else does the same thing. Just look at the physics in it. If you get 30-40 pounds accelerating from 7-8 feet in the air, coming to an instant stop! That's a lot of force, Joe.

Heck yeah, though for me it doesn't always work. Even if the inverted poll swing it doesn't split, I'll lay the log/round on its side on the block, then swing into and along grain near the top with an overhead arc and 'whip' of the wrist. That 'whip' with the wrist seems to make the difference in power delivery. Kind of like swinging a gold club, it's all about the geometry of the swing and the arc up to the point of impact.

"designed for use on Australian hardwoods and" and what?

It's worse than that, it actually reads "Australien"... Hults Bruk needs a better translator, ha ha
 
That's what I've always said about splitting wood, it's like swinging a baseball bat, all in the wrist. I've seen guys on youtube spread their legs and lift the ax or maul dead center on their body, over their head. You can't get any snap or wrist action like that.
 
Nice touch, I burned the handle to raise the grain and oiled on my Helko Splataxt for better purchase, also looks cool to boot! Did you sharpen it yet?



Heck yeah, though for me it doesn't always work. Even if the inverted poll swing it doesn't split, I'll lay the log/round on its side on the block, then swing into and along grain near the top with an overhead arc and 'whip' of the wrist. That 'whip' with the wrist seems to make the difference in power delivery. Kind of like swinging a gold club, it's all about the geometry of the swing and the arc up to the point of impact.



It's worse than that, it actually reads "Australien"... Hults Bruk needs a better translator, ha ha
No on the sharpen ,it feels good for splitting out of the box,maybe if was cutting a tree down it could use a better edge , i need to get one of the sharpen stones still.
 
No on the sharpen ,it feels good for splitting out of the box,maybe if was cutting a tree down it could use a better edge , i need to get one of the sharpen stones still.
FWIW the Dollar Tree store near my cabin sells a 2"x6" sharpening stone for a buck. Not sure about the quality but would be worth a try maybe.
 
That's what I've always said about splitting wood, it's like swinging a baseball bat, all in the wrist. I've seen guys on youtube spread their legs and lift the ax or maul dead center on their body, over their head. You can't get any snap or wrist action like that.

Agreed, same with chopping or felling/notching. Over-exerting or trying to force the blow is good way to wear out your elbows or mess up your back for a few weeks or months.

No on the sharpen ,it feels good for splitting out of the box,maybe if was cutting a tree down it could use a better edge , i need to get one of the sharpen stones still.

I got you. Maybe it's just me, but I still like a nice sharp edge on my splitting axes, I'll just file it to a wider grind, like 35° then hone it to a fine edge. A wide grind and good steel will hold an edge well. My sharpening kit consists of a bastard mill file, Lanskey puck (120/280 grits), and a Whetstone (400/1000 grits). When done I'll strop it on a cloth polishing wheel using my bench grinder. Once the grind is set, the honing with the stones only takes about 5-10 minutes. Maybe 15 minutes tops for a brand new axe, a bit longer for an older one or if the grind is Bubba'd pretty bad.
 

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