So i was looking to see if anyone has sprayed or had experience spraying/dealing with knotweed. We are on our 2nd summer in our home. Needless to say here in pa this knotweed is bad, and the owners of a now vacant 0.9 acres have a jungle below us. Needless to say i was clueless till this year, and its wanting to grow over our shrubs down there and has started popping up here and there through our lawn. I few weeks back i cut about 10 feet back to give us a barrier and sprayed, but theyre already putting out new shoots. After reading it looks like i need to spray the new shoots leaves to be effective in transporting the chemical to the root. What are you guys doing for a ratio? The first i did was 3% of a 4 gallon sprayer. Was curious what yall were doing. I bought rm43 glysophate and blue dye as well. Any input is appreciated in getting a handle on this crap without contacting the owners below us.
Spraying japanese knotweed ratio
- Thread starter Jbdpayne
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Cut it now and let it grow for the rest of the summer. I know...seems a little counter-intuitive. But in the fall, the plant will be pulling more resources back into the roots to prepare for winter. It is not doing that as much now.
You don't "need" to cut it now - you could simply spray it in a couple of months. The point of cutting it now is to reduce the leaf surface area you are going to spray.
I've had good results with 4% RoundUp Custom and a surfactant. only have treated a couple of spots...one was probably 20-30' and 6' tall. I got involved too late for the "mow now spray later" prescription, so we just sprayed. When I was back next year, it was smoked.
You don't "need" to cut it now - you could simply spray it in a couple of months. The point of cutting it now is to reduce the leaf surface area you are going to spray.
I've had good results with 4% RoundUp Custom and a surfactant. only have treated a couple of spots...one was probably 20-30' and 6' tall. I got involved too late for the "mow now spray later" prescription, so we just sprayed. When I was back next year, it was smoked.
Will do. I did cut the majority already, to my knpwledge its hopefully depleted its resources, there are stalks back at about 3' but npt in the numbers there were. I also gave customer service a shout today. They recomended 6oz per gallon, anout twice what i used and adding a little dawn for an added surfactant. Going to give that a try and see. I know otll be a long battle but hoping to just get a grip on it in the next couple years
The owners of the vacant lot will need to kill 100% of it too, or it will just keep coming back.
I would use an actual surfactant instead of dish soap... Especially in a commercial setting. I'm not saying the dish soap won't work, Just that I think a product designed for that use is generally going to be better. On a technicality it may not be legal to apply a non-labeled product on a for-hire job... I know that would be the case for the actual herbicide, that I'm not sure what that means for a surfactant?
The rm43 has a surfactant in it to .y knowledge, its got a quicker treating time of about 2 hours. Thats why i bought that over the tractor supply 41% glysophate. Im aware too on the vacant lot. Its not all a jungle, part is wooded but yes the other part is pretty much all knotweed. I just want to get a handle on it even if i spfay it a couple times a year. Mt neighbor on the other side has it as well, but he has 160 acres and takes 4x2.5gallon jugs over the perimeter of his property. Sprays it once a summer and it doesnt go beyond his picket fence. I doubt if the owners of the lot below us paid to have it removed they would get all of the ribosomes though. Ill contact my tow ship office to see if theyre responsibpe for sure and post back
@ 41% I would go to 6oz/gal.
sbhooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Put in more glyphosate, rather than less. More of these plants are getting resistant to it, because of people using a weak mix. Use a good surfactant, because especially this time of year, the plants can develop a waxy coating and a surfactant helps keep the chemical on the plant longer.
Ask a local crop specialist, local weed control board, or Game and Fish management person what to use. Those guys are a great source, as they do this stuff every day.
Ask a local crop specialist, local weed control board, or Game and Fish management person what to use. Those guys are a great source, as they do this stuff every day.
I just sprayed today since we have a couple days of sun. I did go with the 6oz/gal as well. There is a small patch that i didnt cut with my kombi as well as the new shoots of what i cut. Unfortunately ill be losing a couple spirea on the border of my property, and all of the shrubs along the portion i cut are toast. The knotweed has either killed them by growing up btween or theyll be dead from spraying. I got in touch with my township, they are sending a code officer monday for me. Not sure if anything will pan from it, and i hate being that guy. The folk that own the property are collecting royalties from a pad down the road, but they havemt had a house there for over 20 years. The townahip said they are required to do upkeep so we will see. We will see here in the coming week how it looks, but its thinned out a lot thank god
So a little update on the knotweed situation. Have not heard from the code officer on the neighboring property, i dont really have high hopes for that anyway. As far as the spraying, it was effective at 6oz/gal. Definitely has not had any new growth since while the rest have officially flowered. The tall growth i sprayed Definitely faired better than the new shoots, but i will cut those out and do the same to keep a biffer between properties.
young bucker
Don’t touch my lunch and can of chew..!!.
My neighbour had the same issue, he lives close to power lines, with zero other structures around. So he used a excavator and basically turned his yard into a massive churn pit. It worked.
When the going gets tough, Tordon in the spring and glyphosate in the fall.
If not Tordon, Garlon 3A is about 70% as effective. Skip the ester formulations as they are great for quick burn down, but don't translocate as well.
Killing the roots is where control success begins.
If not Tordon, Garlon 3A is about 70% as effective. Skip the ester formulations as they are great for quick burn down, but don't translocate as well.
Killing the roots is where control success begins.
Couldnt agree more, ill take a look at yhose for next spring. Have had my hands full getting some old mimosas cut down that were bugged. I took a walk down today and its pretty much bare. No new shoots growing up through the grass, unfortunately the shrubs down there are all but toast, but a couple years of control and i think i can back it off enought to get matting down and plant again
What % AI glyphosphate are you using? 24,D amine mixed with roundup will take care of most stuff. Crossbow is another herbicide that you can try.
I was using rm43 (43%). 6oz/gal per there recommendation in a 4gal backpack sprayer. My neighbor i think buys the 41% compare and save from tractor supply and does pretty good as well, but he hit them early in the summer
Esker
New Member
Three year process.
Allow knotweed to grow into August full flower.
Saturate with brush strength Glyphosate on hot day with no rain in forecast.
Kills 90% of knotweed.
Repeat the process the next year.
Repeat the process the third year.
In fourth year and beyond spot spray occasional sprouts if they appear.
I once saved an antique house thirty years ago that was fully engulfed with knotweed by this method. It was even growing out into the basement through the fieldstone foundation, ghost white like when soil is mounded up over asparagus.
That house is knotweed free to this day.
A pesticide sales rep related this method to me.
Of course this won't solve the problem of the neighbor's property recolonizing your land.
Allow knotweed to grow into August full flower.
Saturate with brush strength Glyphosate on hot day with no rain in forecast.
Kills 90% of knotweed.
Repeat the process the next year.
Repeat the process the third year.
In fourth year and beyond spot spray occasional sprouts if they appear.
I once saved an antique house thirty years ago that was fully engulfed with knotweed by this method. It was even growing out into the basement through the fieldstone foundation, ghost white like when soil is mounded up over asparagus.
That house is knotweed free to this day.
A pesticide sales rep related this method to me.
Of course this won't solve the problem of the neighbor's property recolonizing your land.
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