OK,, Maybe I got that backwards about zama being smaller than walbro.
SawTroll is usually pretty accurate with his information.
squishey squishey
- Thread starter muddstopper
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I'll measure a few tomorrow and see which is bigger
SawTroll
Information Collector
Be aware that the equation gets turned upside down in cases where the saw manufacturer elects to use the next smaller "even mm" Zama instead of the "rounded up" size, compared to the Walbro they otherwise would have used. This has been fairly common practice.
Also, "copy of" doesn't necessarily mean "just as good as" - and at this point there likely are Zama carbs that isn' a copy of any Walbro one out there.
Good to know. All the carbs I have came off of old 51 and 55 huskeys. Not sure but I think most of the 51's I have fooled with all had Walbro carbs and most of the 55's had either brand. I didnt get around to measureing any of the carbs. My son and I went to a pre garage sale today and carried home a truck load of carpenter tools. Its a good thing the truck was a short bed or we both would have probably gone broke.
Frank Rizzo
Custom Saw Modification 241c-441c,660 specialist
We the unwilling, led by the unknowing , are doing the impossible for the ungrateful ! We have done so much for so long with so little we are now qualified to do anything with nothing !
I started putting the saw together tonite. Good news is the Zama carb does have the bigger venturi than the Walbro. Now the bad news. After splitting the case, installing new bearings and seals, bolting everything back together, putting the new Piston and cyl on, mounting the partitions and carb, getting read to button everything back up. I found a screwup or oversite with my case. I was putting the clips on their little tabs and discovered that one of the tabs was broke off. I can put the back two clips on, but not the one in the front. This means I cant put all the screws in the cover. I had two more cases, one is cracked and the other had a big piece broke out. Only fix I can comeup with is replacing half the case. This would mean finding a good case half and completely dismantleing the almost complete saw. I havent put the gas tank on yet so that makes things easier if I fix it now. I am debateing, since I just like mounting the tank and muffler, of just running the saw as is to see how it performs. I am just fustrated that I didnt see the broken tab before assembly.
I'll get one later. Company here now.
Heres a pic of the broken tab mount. Located just below my pointy thingy. I am going to try and just put the clip on the top flange of the case and see how that works. 
I picked up the fuel line and filter and a couple other missing little parts at my dealer yesterday. Sometime today I will finish putting the saw together and see if it will run. I need to figure out how to make and upload a video.
I picked up the fuel line and filter and a couple other missing little parts at my dealer yesterday. Sometime today I will finish putting the saw together and see if it will run. I need to figure out how to make and upload a video.
Put squishy together today.
Missing a handlebar and need a clutch break. Also the recoil for some reason doesnt want to recoil. I tried one off another saw and it doesnt want to work either. Got me puzzled for now. Cant find my compression tester either. Maybe I can round up the missing parts and fire it up tomorrow.
Missing a handlebar and need a clutch break. Also the recoil for some reason doesnt want to recoil. I tried one off another saw and it doesnt want to work either. Got me puzzled for now. Cant find my compression tester either. Maybe I can round up the missing parts and fire it up tomorrow.
Had to put squishy on the back burner for a few days. MIL passed and no time to mess with any saws the last few days. I did finish putting the saw together. Carb leaked gas like a sieve. Swapped on one of the walbros I had laying around. Dont think it is any good either. Saw will crank, but wont run long or rev up. Once it dies, it doesnt want to crank back. Getting to much fuel as it will wet the plug. New plug and it cranks and dies and wont hit another lick. Not sure what to do. I know when I cut the cyl base, it opened up the pulse hole to about double in size and wondering if its getting to much pulse causeing the saw to flood. and if that is the problem what to do to fix it. Also note, I did not do anything to port timing that probably should have been done since lowing the cyl .030. I wanted to see if it would run and then start messing with timing. Is it possible port timing is off so much it is cause the flooding?
drf255
BAD CAD
IMHO, it’s not the timing.
If its not timing then it would have to be carburetor or coil, or are you suspecting something else.
drf255
BAD CAD
Can be a leaking carb needle or a bad ignition system not causing fuel to burn.
Too much impulse won’t cause a rich condition.
I’d pull carb and pressure test it. See if it holds at least 15#. Also add a new plug and see if spark while pulling over.
Bad coils are generally all or none, but when they start to go, they fail when they get hot and electrical resistance rises.
There are always a billion other things that can cause problems, the above are just some generalities.
Too much impulse won’t cause a rich condition.
I’d pull carb and pressure test it. See if it holds at least 15#. Also add a new plug and see if spark while pulling over.
Bad coils are generally all or none, but when they start to go, they fail when they get hot and electrical resistance rises.
There are always a billion other things that can cause problems, the above are just some generalities.
drf255
BAD CAD
Oops, forget ignition timing. If you sheared the crank Key, common in Husky with cast in keys, you will get just what you’re describing.
Made me nuts with a 262 once. It will start, flood and just not rev up or run funny. A quick check is to see where the magnets are in relation to coil legs at TDC. They should nearly be in line. I’d check that first, easy enough.
Made me nuts with a 262 once. It will start, flood and just not rev up or run funny. A quick check is to see where the magnets are in relation to coil legs at TDC. They should nearly be in line. I’d check that first, easy enough.
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would start by rebuilding the zama carb that you had on the saw initially. I've done a few of those 55/51 saws, and have found that taking a good cut off the base can cause some real problems with the poorly designed carb mount, intake boot, and impulse grommet. If you reuse the old intake boot and impulse grommet then you will more than likely end up with an air leak. I've go a partner 5000+ that I built years ago that shares the same intake setup. It gave me a fit.
I thought about the Flywheel key. I have only sheared one that I can remember on a 55, but dont remember how the saw was acting. I have checked spark, but it would still spark, even with a sheared key. I am leaning toward carb being the problem. These carbs I am trying where all in a box of junk with a bunch of saw parts. No telling how long ago they where taken off saws. I have a zama kit and do plan on rebuilding the zama. I put the walbro on just because I had it. I really dont think flooding would be a sympton of a air leak. Sucking air would create a lean condition I am thinking. I will do a little trouble shooting today and try too figure it out.
stinkbait
Addicted to ArboristSite
Your right, flooding wouldn't be a symptom of an air leak, but a carb that needs rebuilding could still flood a saw with an air leak if the inlet needle is stuck open. Definitely need to sort out the fuel delivery issue before worrying about an air leak. I was just giving you a heads up on issues that a base cut can cause on these type saws. That slight change in angle on the intake boot and impulse nipple from cutting the base can be trouble.
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The zama carb will get a kit sometime today and while the carb is off, I will be checking a few other things. Might as well fiddle with saws, nothing but rain outside.
