Starting a Homelite XL troubles.

[billyboy]

I have an old Homey XL, 26cc, 14" bar, top handle. It's always been a pain to get started. Usually resort to dribble of fuel in the carb. Lately that isn't always a sure fire. Once took it to the local former stihl dealer and he grabbed it , choked it, cranked a few times, choke off and a couple cranks it starts. Took it home and it's always the same old for me. Then I took it back to the shop and told him to check it out. $35 later it still won't start most of the time. I crank a few times with choke on and then crank with it off. Usually doesn't work. Anyone have any other starting procedures they care to share? Maybe it's time for the time machine. When it's running it's a fine little saw, great limber,,usually starts back up if I shut it off for a minute or two, except when I refuel, then it gives me trouble. No ethanol, fresh gas,and I use a synthetic oil at 50:1

 

[sonny580]

Are you sure it uses 50-1? Older homelites used 32-1 mix.---It's similar to xl 2, which I have 1, and it starts easy doing like your dealer showed you.--Gotta do strong/fast drop and pull.--can't do it slow or they will be hard to start. thanks; sonny580

 

[billyboy]

My synthetic is Timberline or Timberman or something like that. Bottle says it's good for any and all ratios. Been running it in my 028 and a couple string trimmers for years, about 15. But I'm certainly willin to try it if that little fella would start better. I did look at the cylinder and piston two or three years back and they looked good.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Have you tried starting with throttle wide open. Old Craftsman used that procedure.

 

[billyboy]

I have tried that when I assumed it was flooded from my usual start up method, Choke on for a few strokes and then off, and I didn't get anywhere with it. Maybe I'll try that for a first attempt and see how it goes. I also tried one of those new "ECCG", or someting like that, spark plugs from china with the "V" shaped ground terminal.

 

[undee70ss]

Do a compression test first. Engines with low compression are harder to start. Normal range for a 26cc XL is 115-145.

Does it have electronic or points ignition? If you don’t know post model and serial numbers. If points they may need cleaned or adjusted. If electronic, do this test, take a good plug and cut off ground strap. Test for spark, if none, module may be going bad. New ones are cheap on eBay.

If idle mixture screw is set to lean, it will also cause hard starting.

A plugged muffler will also cause problems. Newer ones have a spark arrester which always seems to plug up first.

 

[billyboy]

It's a texron model or something like that and I believe the M# is 5-6 digits but never have seen a serial number. I have been wondering if the compression was getting low. Doesn't take much to spin it over.
Last time I checked the spark it seemed like it was blueish but maybe that was my imagination. It was difficult for me to hold the plug to ground and crank it over at the same time.Can you still find rings for these? Maybe I will have to ask my repairman what he found. He isn't at the shop so much anymore. Will take a look at the muffler ang get some numbers. I had the engine out a few years back to fix at something and I think it's points but wouldn't bet on it. My memory is about as old as I am.

 

[happysaws]

I have tried that when I assumed it was flooded from my usual start up method, Choke on for a few strokes and then off, and I didn't get anywhere with it. Maybe I'll try that for a first attempt and see how it goes. I also tried one of those new "ECCG", or someting like that, spark plugs from china with the "V" shaped ground terminal.

You mean E3 plugs?

I've had a few problems with those. I was always a die-hard fan of them, until I had one that would cause my saw to stall and shut off when warm.

I'd try a Bosch or NGK plug and go from there.

 

[undee70ss]

.Can you still find rings for these? .

Yes, you can get just about any parts you would need. You can also download IPL (illustrated parts list) and owners manual here for free too.

https://www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html

 

[Beetlejuice]

This is free advise..find an old but good sparkplug wire from a car. Saw or grind the head off a 3/8 or 5/16' bolt. I don't remember now, but whatever fits in distributor end. Shove it in that end, and shove the other in the chainsaw plug, put a sparky in your extended wire, and depending on how long your wire is you may now pull and spark without standing on your head

 

[billyboy]

I checked the compression with my maybe not so trusty rubber tipped unit and came up with 110 psi. Checked the muffler and looked at p&c and they look pretty good. Checked for spark and it was going like a house on fire, wasn't blue but it was dam sparky. Tried the normal startup with no luck. Then I tried to start it with choke off and throttle open with no luck. Then I put the choke on and throttle open and it took right off. Warmed it up a bit and it started right up after shutting it down for a minute. Went out and wacked some dry 8-9" dry ash with new sprocket/chain and it went right thru it. Got to thinking about when I came home from the repair shop and tried to start it with the 3 cranks/with choke and then w/o choke and couldn't get it started and then I think I did the same thing of choking it with throttle open and it fired. I'm going to try this again latter and see if I have finally found a way to get this to start with some semblance of regularity.

I could not find a M# or S# on this saw. It's red plastic with XL on the crank side with Auto oiler on the same emblem. It has a Made IN Amer sticker on the chain side. On the top it says Textron. Has 800 #'s for dealers and the Charlotte,NC. home office. There is a sticker that says "Do not use Ethanol".
Would that indicate to any of you that it is new enough to have solid state ignition?

Thankyou to all who chimed in.
'

 

[undee70ss]

It has electronic ignition, as the ethanol and phone number stickers came out in late 80’s early 90’s

 

[undee70ss]

Try opening the idle mixture screw a little, it may start easier.

 

[billyboy]

I went out again and tried to start it cold with choke on and throtle open and it has started 2 or 3 cranks each time today. Maybe i finally know how to treat this critter. Thanks to all who chimed in. Much appreciated.

 

[2broke2ride]

All of my old saws like some throttle to start. My big old Macs like wide open.

 

[undee70ss]

I went out again and tried to start it cold with choke on and throtle open and it has started 2 or 3 cranks each time today. Maybe i finally know how to treat this critter. Thanks to all who chimed in. Much appreciated.

It does say that in the owners manual. You can download one here.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre.../homelite_xl_chainsaw_owners_manual_24904.pdf

 

[Okie]

I've got one or two of them top handle homeies that are hard to start after I run all the gas out of the carb for storage.
Instead of removing the air filter and priming through the carb throat I just tip the saw up so as I can prime little bit of mixed gas into the muffler, then set choke to off and hold the throttle wide open and give them sharp fast cranks and get a run. Priming thru the muffler is more user friendly than removing the air filter, etc. If it runs little bit and quits I then apply the choke and re-try or do a re-prime thru muffler if the muffler is not hot.

Also normally on most top handle homies when the saw is cold you place the choke on full, then crank until a slight pop, then 1/2 choke with wide open throttle. (AND use a new correct type spark plug per the owners manual)

You need to figure out if the saw is starving for gas or flooding when hard to start cold. (you say it's got good compression and ignition fire therefore it's most likely fuel related.
Kinda sounds like may need a carb kit and look at the fuel lines and filters.

Read this also: and some of the same homie issues at the very bottom of this page

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-wont-start-3-reasons-why.318247/

 

[dynodave]

I've got 2 XL2. 1973 & 1977
Both act the same.
Ignition off,
FULL choke,
3 pulls to prime,

1/2 choke
Ignition on,
1 pull and it runs....
5-10 seconds running
choke off
cut wood
never use E-10 or the carb kits will die

 

[billyboy]

I didn't know the correct starting procedure and my local Stihl shop evidently didn't either. Read a number of homey xl posts here and didn't see it either. But I got it now and it starts good. Will be getting the correct Splug in it. I think it mav be dieing at idle because of an E3 Splug which Happysaws mentioned above. Other than that, many frustrating days with the little red head may be over. I hope.

 

[Okie]

I've got 2 XL2. 1973 & 1977
Both act the same.
Ignition off,
FULL choke,
3 pulls to prime,

1/2 choke
Ignition on,
1 pull and it runs....
5-10 seconds running
choke off
cut wood
never use E-10 or the carb kits will die

Good info for you from dynodave:

Their are several versions of your saw. (so as to get the correct parts) I think maybe most of them used the little Champion Cj8 spark plug. Yours appear to be a later model since it mentions not to use corn for fuel. You might nose around at this link and see if you can find the correct IPL for your saw as a free download.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/parts-diagrams.html

The ethanol will ruin the fuel lines and the carb/carb kit. I now use Tygon fuel lines. (the real tygon not china version)But a OEM type Homies fuel line will last very long time if not fed corn fuel.

If your saw won't idle correctly after a correct spark plug and carb adjust it may need a carb kit.
The carb ID is usually stamped on the side of the carb and hard to see until the carb is removed.

It's quite common for the glued on model and version stickers to fall off and gone gone. I sometimes just pull them off and place them in my file and use a etcher tool and scribe the numbers on the saw. It's really hit and miss getting the correct parts without proper ID numbers because their are several different version of the little XL's.

Give it a little TLC and it will come around.