Stihl 028 AV Super... is it worth fixing?

[SteveoSupremo]

Not good :-(

So I tried it in wood today... Couldn't keep it running and it would bog down with light pressure! Vid to come!

What did I do wrong?

 

[Clarkbug]

I would stay to start with the tuning. If you cant keep it running, there is a problem. Start with the carb screws out 1 turn each (or 1 1/4), and it should at least run. Maybe not in the wood, but run. Then tune the low side, then the high side after it warms up some. If you cant get that far, its time to start thinking about what could be up with your build.

Since you have tried to play with it some, wouldnt hurt to pull the muffler and make sure things are still OK there.

Is your coil gapped properly? Did you use a business card when you put all that back together?

 

[SteveoSupremo]

Here's the video

[video=youtube;7j9fkTS6SJE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7j9fkTS6SJE&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/video]

 

[SteveoSupremo]

Is your coil gapped properly? Did you use a business card when you put all that back together?

Coil gapped? what coil? I know the spark plug is gapped properly.

I did pull the exhaust off everything looks good. there is a lot of oil in the exhaust but I think that's from all the oil i used to put it together.

and by the way that was old cedar that I was cutting into.

 

[Clarkbug]

Coil gapped? what coil? I know the spark plug is gapped properly.

I did pull the exhaust off everything looks good. there is a lot of oil in the exhaust but I think that's from all the oil i used to put it together.

and by the way that was old cedar that I was cutting into.

Sorry, I may have jumped ahead...

When you pulled the saw all apart, did you take the coil off of the saw? Its screwed in next to the flywheel under the recoil. If you didnt, never mind my comment.

Sounds like you are really really rich. What happens when you pull the plug, is it all oily? Tune your L screw first, then lean out the saw some, and see if it works any better....

 

[SteveoSupremo]

No I didn't pull the coil off. just the P/C, Carb, and hoses.

I'm sure the spark plug is oily. I used nearly an oz of oil with an acid brush on bearing areas, and arround the rings and cylinder wall as I was putting it back together.

I'll play with the LA to get the saw to run, and let it sit idle for a little while while it heats up. then play with the L if I understand richen it up till it bogs down then lean it out till it revs up then choose halfway between the two points. Set the LA till the chain doesn't run and then do the same for the H only leaving it on the rich side of half way.

 

[obwon]

Is the chain brake on? It sounds like it is bound up.

John

 

[Mad Professor]

Look at fuel filter, fuel line and intake hose.

If those are good look at the carb rubber parts.

Stihl no good, pres/vac test.

P.S. has the saw been ran on CORN FED FUEL?

 

[SteveoSupremo]

So Yea I re-tuned the LA, then ran it through some maple it threw chips like it was it's job... then I played with the L then the LA again, then the H then made sure the LA was still good.

after all that it looks as if it's still set at about 1 1/4 turns for both the H and L.

Thanks
Steve

 

[SteveoSupremo]

TLDR; -- Recap

1) Toasted piston from over leaning out the saw:
2) Replaced piston, rings, cleaned Cylinder.
3) Replaced all rubber except for manifold.
4) Compression test was bogus.
5) Saw started and ran like a champ!
6) Saw sucked a couple days later in cedar :-(
7) Re-tuned and couldn't get it to bog down in bar length maple

8) need to get tac....

 

[psuiewalsh]

1) Toasted piston from over leaning out the saw:
2) Replaced piston, rings, cleaned Cylinder.
3) Replaced all rubber except for manifold.
4) Compression test was bogus.
5) Saw started and ran like a champ!
6) Saw sucked a couple days later in cedar :-(
7) Re-tuned and couldn't get it to bog down in bar length maple

8) need to get tac....

A good number of people here will tell you don't worry about the tach run it by ear. I have tuned and had verified on a tach and it was very close. To me it was not worth the cost of owning one so I sold it to another member.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

To me it was not worth the cost of owning one so I sold it to another member.

The saw in the pic, or the tach?

A FastTach doesn't cost much more than fixing a blown up saw and is a great tool for the intended purpose, not to mention verifying the "ear technique" on stock saws.

Poge

 

[psuiewalsh]

The saw in the pic, or the tach?

A FastTach doesn't cost much more than fixing a blown up saw and is a great tool for the intended purpose, not to mention verifying the "ear technique" on stock saws.

Poge

I had that tach and sold it. I had that saw and sold it. It is not foolproof as the tach gets messed up by limited coils and the settings are different for ported saws too. I have the saw shop throw their tach on when I buy supplies if there is a question. It may work for you if there is one nearby.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I had that tach and sold it. I had that saw and sold it. It is not foolproof as the tach gets messed up by limited coils and the settings are different for ported saws too. I have the saw shop throw their tach on when I buy supplies if there is a question. It may work for you if there is one nearby.

Tachs are good for tuning to specs if you know how to use one. They have no purpose on modded saws besides establishing the difference between stock specs and the resulting specs from the mod. And a tach will tell you if the limited coil is doing its job. It will also tell you how good (or bad) your ear technique is on a stock saw.

Just sayin'...

Sounds to me like the OP may benefit from having one. Sure would have made his initial tuning exercise a lot easier, now wouldn't it?:biggrin:



Poge

 

[d in the tree]

Why'd she blow

Can you get a picture of the bottom of the old piston and wrist pin? Is it dry or even blue in color? Did you get a pressure vacuum test done on it yet? I like to know why they died before I run a rebuild very hard. Just want your rebuild to last. And a note from an earlier post that I saw, I'm sure this is backwards. QUOTE]At idle, adjust the L screw in until it almost dies out. Then go the other way until you get too lean. Put it back in the middle

. In is lean and out is rich. The jet controls the amount of fuel, not air.

 

[psuiewalsh]

Tachs are good for tuning to specs if you know how to use one. They have no purpose on modded saws besides establishing the difference between stock specs and the resulting specs from the mod. And a tach will tell you if the limited coil is doing its job. It will also tell you how good (or bad) your ear technique is on a stock saw.

Just sayin'...

Sounds to me like the OP may benefit from having one. Sure would have made his initial tuning exercise a lot easier, now wouldn't it?:biggrin:



Poge

I agree with the last. Melty sucks.

 

[SteveoSupremo]

Can you get a picture of the bottom of the old piston and wrist pin? Is it dry or even blue in color? Did you get a pressure vacuum test done on it yet? I like to know why they died before I run a rebuild very hard. Just want your rebuild to last. And a note from an earlier post that I saw, I'm sure this is backwards. QUOTE]At idle, adjust the L screw in until it almost dies out. Then go the other way until you get too lean. Put it back in the middle

. In is lean and out is rich. The jet controls the amount of fuel, not air.

didn't vac test it. Like I said earler I thought it was running too rich so i leaned out the H to like 3/4 turn or so it wasn't dry (not straight gassed). I can't remember off the top of my head but I think there was some blue on the wrist pin (over heated).

your probably right on the directions of the screws I can't remember right now but yes I richened till it almost dies then leaned it out till it started racing then put it in between closer to the rich side. which was about at 1 1/4 turns..... did the same to the H at full throttle same 1 1/4 turns.. 4 cycles out of the wood throws chips in the wood.

will try to post a video of it tomorrow.

SS

 

[SteveoSupremo]

as promised finished, tuned, and burried

so its in maple full bar depth it was getting clogged with chips. but other than that I think it was running pretty smooth!

[video=youtube_share;OFkI847yhmA]http://youtu.be/OFkI847yhmA[/video]

thoughts?
Steve

 

[StihlyinEly]

As long as your chain is sharp, noodling like that (cutting parallel with the grain) will always produce long chips that clog the clutch cover unless the cover is cut out a bit. I'd have been more interested in how it makes a typical bucking cut, because noodling a loose stump is forcing a lot of reefing on the saw, but it looks and sounds good anyway.

 

[bush cutter]

stihl 028 woodboss

hey guys i just got a really nice stihl 028 wood boss chainsaw runs awsome im thinkin of putting a 20 inch bar an chain on it would that work for this kinda saw please let me know or send me a pm thanks