Old still P/C are matched to clearace, A or B
Get your feelers out before you assemble
Get your feelers out before you assemble
i've heard about that squishy stuff. i'll look into it to amuse myself wilst i wait for the piston.Technically you should do a squish test. However I've reinstalled cylinders without a gasket and had no problem. I typically use Dirko HT but any fuel resistant sealant will work.
i have no idea what you said...Old still P/C are matched to clearace, A or B
Get your feelers out before you assemble
i will do that. and a thanks as well. once i get it running!Let us know how you make out.
i have no idea what you said...
Ok, thanks! I'm sure there's a post on here somewhere about how to do it.Stihl piston and cylinders are matched for size and stamped A or B. You can check clearance with feeler gauges. I believe Meteor also does the same.
You should always check P/C clearance and ring gap when putting in parts.
Thanks! I cant wait to get that saw running!Slip a feeler gauge between the intake piston skirt and the bottom of the cylinder while you slide it in.
You should be able to fit a .001-.002 between the piston and the cylinder. .003 is a bit loose, especially for a new slug. Anything more is no good.
The ring gap is easy. Insert the ring and push above the exhaust roof with the piston crown, just make sure you don’t push it to the top. Measure the gap with a feeler gauge. Usually .007 or better is ok for your bore. There’s a formula I forget that’s easily found online. It’s alway good to check, but meteor pistons come with caber rings (same company) and I have yet to find a single one that was off. It’s a quality product. I stopped checking with cabers altogether.
CopyYouv'e got a lot more buffing to do.
I was joking. I've got some real small stuff. I'll mic it and check the dia.That bar is not going to work for a squish test. Get some thin wire stuff used for small electrical wires, the old 100% lead stuff is best/softest.
Copy
would some rouge and a buffing wheel work?Copy
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