Stihl 028 super rebuild went bad

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I have it all together and will get it running. After i get it adjusted ill make a vid and post it.
 
I have it running, after some adjustment on the L carb and idle i have it where it will idle good, and restart as well. I will tune the H setting tomorrow. Is it common for it to be such a pain just to get it running after a rebuild? It would not start at all until the L adjust was out 1.5 turns. Anything less and it would not start at all.
 
I have it running, after some adjustment on the L carb and idle i have it where it will idle good, and restart as well. I will tune the H setting tomorrow. Is it common for it to be such a pain just to get it running after a rebuild? It would not start at all until the L adjust was out 1.5 turns. Anything less and it would not start at all.

Sometimes a splash of mix in the carb will get it running long enough to prime the fuel system.
 
Generally if i have a new build i pull it with no plug a dozen times to move the assembly oil around and help prime the fuel system. Then plug goes in and set choke. I usually bust off on 2 pulls or so. If not i go to high idle no choke...and pull.

If the carb had been messed with prior to the rebuild i take both needles in to a soft seat then out 1.5 to 2 turns. For instance if the saw had been struggling the carb may be way rich to keep it running..but all sealed up with compression it floods.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
Generally if i have a new build i pull it with no plug a dozen times to move the assembly oil around and help prime the fuel system. Then plug goes in and set choke. I usually bust off on 2 pulls or so. If not i go to high idle no choke...and pull.

If the carb had been messed with prior to the rebuild i take both needles in to a soft seat then out 1.5 to 2 turns. For instance if the saw had been struggling the carb may be way rich to keep it running..but all sealed up with compression it floods.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
That’s smart. Gonna start using your method instead of bustin’ my arse starting these oiled and ported beasts with 20 high compression pulls.
 
Generally if i have a new build i pull it with no plug a dozen times to move the assembly oil around and help prime the fuel system. Then plug goes in and set choke. I usually bust off on 2 pulls or so. If not i go to high idle no choke...and pull.

If the carb had been messed with prior to the rebuild i take both needles in to a soft seat then out 1.5 to 2 turns. For instance if the saw had been struggling the carb may be way rich to keep it running..but all sealed up with compression it floods.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
This, exactly. I wished ida knowed sooner.....
 
Watch "Stihl 028 carb test" on YouTube

I set the hi til it started to burble. Turned it in on succesive cuts until it didnt bog down. When i turned it in a little more after that it sped up but that was it. I assume that would be lean, right. Sorry for the video quality but its hard to record and cut at the same time. I coulda rigged something to hold it but i didnt.
P.s. thats about a 24" chunk of seasoned hedge im sawing on.
 
Na he means did you pressure & vac test post melt down and before you pulled the cylinder this time.
Add some photos of the cylinder- from the inside looking through the exhaust post if you can- some of those scores look pretty meaty, like it might have been eating carbon.
Diamond is just real old carbon........ and they are pretty damn hard.
If you can make diamonds in a chainsaw generd
Na he means did you pressure & vac test post melt down and before you pulled the cylinder this time.
Add some photos of the cylinder- from the inside looking through the exhaust post if you can- some of those scores look pretty meaty, like it might have been eating carbon.
Diamond is just real old carbon........ and they are pretty damn hard.

al electric would like to hire you
 
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