Stihl 034av

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The main concerns for a saw this old are the deteriorated condition of all of the seals, hoses, and other rubber parts. If you can't find any obvious oiler issues the pump mat be full of sawdust debris which will limmit the stroke and hence the output. I am pretty sure that this one can be disassembled and cleaned.

I used it some today and it oiled just fine. I did turn the oiler all the way up before I started.
 
Good choice.

Lets see it after clean up. 034S people like better than the 036. I've got two that are my go to saws unless big or small wood

I ran it a little today and I’m impressed. I’ll have to pretty much disassemble the whole thing to really get it clean but that’s a good project I guess. I can definitely see grabbing it over my 461 for smaller stuff. The weight of this one will spoil you
 
IMHO, that‘s the best power to weight saw Stihl has ever produced. The 034S and the 10mm 044 are pretty much factory hot rods produced when performance was king and the EPA wasn’t choking things down.

You‘ve got the 1125 model with the best performance parts the factory made. Saw should last you forever. A small muff mod, a timing advance and a base gasket delete (you have to check squish-but on the 034S jug I think you’re safe) and you’ll be right at the heels of a fully ported saw.

$200 for that saw is a steal.
 
I ran it a little today and I’m impressed. I’ll have to pretty much disassemble the whole thing to really get it clean but that’s a good project I guess. I can definitely see grabbing it over my 461 for smaller stuff. The weight of this one will spoil you

Give it a good bath, clean out behind the flywheel and clutch if you have the tools, also cylinder fins.

Look over clutch bearing and give it a grease. Stihl upgraded to a larger bearing on 034/036 (13 ---> 16 mm).
 
Give it a good bath, clean out behind the flywheel and clutch if you have the tools, also cylinder fins.

Look over clutch bearing and give it a grease. Stihl upgraded to a larger bearing on 034/036 (13 ---> 16 mm).

What do you suggest cleaning it with? Brake cleaner and compressed air hardly made a dent in the gunk. I don’t want to use anything that’ll take the paint off or discolor the plastic.
 
What do you suggest cleaning it with? Brake cleaner and compressed air hardly made a dent in the gunk. I don’t want to use anything that’ll take the paint off or discolor the plastic.
Mineral spirits and a brush. Then some soapy water to finish the covers after that. WD40 when done.

The plastics are super easy to ruin. Hot water with Dawn liquid, Simple Green and Purple power will all dull the plastics. They are very sensitive.

If you pull the tank, the clutch assembly, the brake assemble covers and the starter/flywheel, you can really get it all cleaned up. jug keep the plug in, cap off the impulse barb, and bring piston to TDC. Stuff some paper towels in the ex and intake ports. Takes pics and remember the install of the clutch assembly. The mineral spirits can be blown off at the end and will evaporate with time, it won’t oxidize anything like water would.

You‘ve got yourself a great saw.
 
What do you suggest cleaning it with? Brake cleaner and compressed air hardly made a dent in the gunk. I don’t want to use anything that’ll take the paint off or discolor the plastic.

Diesel fuel and parts brush /old tooth brush. Scrape off thick stuff first. Then scrub again with hot soapy dish water. Keep water out of carb/exhaust.

Diesel cuts oil/grease great, and it's cheap.
 
Mineral spirits and a brush. Then some soapy water to finish the covers after that. WD40 when done.

The plastics are super easy to ruin. Hot water with Dawn liquid, Simple Green and Purple power will all dull the plastics. They are very sensitive.

If you pull the tank, the clutch assembly, the brake assemble covers and the starter/flywheel, you can really get it all cleaned up. jug keep the plug in, cap off the impulse barb, and bring piston to TDC. Stuff some paper towels in the ex and intake ports. Takes pics and remember the install of the clutch assembly. The mineral spirits can be blown off at the end and will evaporate with time, it won’t oxidize anything like water would.

You‘ve got yourself a great saw.

What he said ^^^^

This is a 026 that was dirty as your 034026cleaned up.jpg
 
Yeah great price!
I have been looking up in my area and nothing below $300
Looking at 034,036,361 some of the 036,361’s are $500

That’s what I normally see around here. There was an 036 pro here a while back for $375 but I can’t bring myself to pay that. I did pay $750 for my 461 used though.
 
yup ya got your self a great saw there for what I think is a bit of a steel....I fixed up an early 034 runs almost as strong as my 036 pro...never run a 034s but w better factory porting just imagine how it runs...the larger clutch drum bearing is a nice upgrade...enjoy

the can
 
Be very careful with the large clutch drum upgrade. The 044 drum bearing is the same, but the drum is not. The drum for the 1125 is actually deeper.

Some bend the worm gear tang up a bit so the drum notch from an 044 drum will engage it, but without any mods, the 044 drum will seemingly fit perfectly but the saw won’t oil.
 
Be very careful with the large clutch drum upgrade. The 044 drum bearing is the same, but the drum is not. The drum for the 1125 is actually deeper.
I'm in the process of rebuilding a 034 with a 036 top end, is this clutch upgrade the way to go?
1125 007 1041.
 

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  • 034 clutch 007.jpg
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I'm in the process of rebuilding a 034 with a 036 top end, is this clutch upgrade the way to go?
1125 007 1041.
It’s good because there are more sprockets available with the large spline. If you ever port the saw, an 8 pin 3/8 is much easier to find.

My own 036 is the small drum and is pretty hot. With correct maintaining (lubing the drum bearing once in a while) I have yet to have an issue.
 
I have two 036. They both came with the small bearing.

Using one the clutch/chain stopped operating properly at idle, but would still drive the chain. The chain felt strange when spun by hand and I could not get it to adjust correctly. When I removed the bar/clutch drum, the clutch drum had lots of play and the bearing had failed. No damage to crank surface and Stihl dealer sold me a clutch upgrade kit. I'm not sure how much more use would have damaged crank as the saw still would cut wood?

The 2nd 036 I acquired as a lean seize and rebuilt. That one's bearing was still good but I put in the clutch kit anyway.
 
Be very careful with the large clutch drum upgrade. The 044 drum bearing is the same, but the drum is not. The drum for the 1125 is actually deeper.

Some bend the worm gear tang up a bit so the drum notch from an 044 drum will engage it, but without any mods, the 044 drum will seemingly fit perfectly but the saw won’t oil.

Stihl IPLs for both saws ( 036, 044) do not give part #s for the rim clutch drums. I assume you need to buy the clutch kits to get the drums.

Both 036 assys

clutchg upgrade.jpg
 
What are the details of the 026 upgrade kit?

On the 026 they did not do an "upgrade" to use a larger bearing, it's just you need to buy a whole kit to get a 026 Stihl OEM clutch drum.

Interesting thought though, would the 036 upgrade kit fit a 026? I'm not sure if the drum would be compatible with the 026 clutch/oil pump. The bearing is the same on 026 and the original small 036 bearing (10 X 13 X 10). Drawback would be you must use rims with more pins ( e.g. 9-pin 0.325). Maybe for a hot rodded 026 that would pull it.

Way back Lakeside53, mentioned you could put the small bearing 036 rim drum assy on a 066, to be able to use 3/8 picco rims for milling with 63 PMX chain.........He didn't recommend it due to the small bearing
 

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