Stihl 066/660 Won't Start

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ktm1217

Kyle
Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
86
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Location
White Mills, PA
Can't believe I'm posting this, but maybe some other ideas thrown at me will help with my problems lol.

I have an 066 that I bought blown up. Ordered the parts (aftermarket), and pressure tested the saw. Found that it had a pretty substantial air leak in the crankcase at the gasket surface near the impulse line nipple connector. Split the case, new gasket, etc. Pressure and vacuum tested again, all is well. Finished up the saw with a new cylinder, piston, rings, fuel line, impulse line, carb, spark plug, filter, etc.

After all of this, it won't start. With the choke down on a cold start, it gives the normal burp on first pull of the cord. After that; on a normal starting procedure; it does nothing. Has good spark and compression. It does throw some fuel out of the muffler after pulling it three or four times and the plug is wet.

Thought maybe hole in the fuel line, but it's getting fuel. Checked the ignition wiring, etc. Can't seem to find anything out of place. Any ideas??
 
It sounds like harleyt has it right to me. There should definitely not be fuel coming out of muffler after a few pulls. Maybe needle valve isnt seating properly, or metering arm is off? Pull the plug and tip it over and pull it and make sure its dry inside, then try again.
 
Agree on the flooding, too much fuel from valve seat not seating, carb needled out too far, sometimes the carb kits come with two different gasket and using the wrong one will result in flooding and fuel coming out the muffler
 
Frogfarmer, I checked the spark plug wire and the killswitch wires, all is well there. Nothing rubbed through or pinched or anything.

Everyone else - I'll have to pull the carb and check the needle. It is a brand new carburetor though so I'd imagine it'd be fine. But it is an aftermarket one so I could be wrong lol. I'll check it over and post an update later on!
 
Pulled the carb apart. The needle is moving as it should; I adjusted the arm down a hair. Pulled the saw over 15-20 times to get all of the fuel out. There was a light mist of fuel that came out of the impulse line, so I guess that's working as it should. Tried another spark plug.

Fired up on the first pull for maybe 3 seconds and then died. Wouldn't restart, and had fuel coming out of the muffler again.

I have an inline spark tester, so I was able to leave the plug in so that it's under compression, and it still produces good hot spark. I got an extra AM carb when I bought it, plus the one that was on the saw, and now have a third one that I ordered myself. I haven't had any problems with the aftermarket carbs, and all looks well inside of the newest one that's on the saw now.
 
OK, dump out all of the fuel. and pull the rope with the throttle held open until it starts.

When it finally starts, it should run for 5 -15 seconds until the excess fuel burns off.
 
That's why i rebuilt and tested OEM carbs for a 200t and a 660 a couple years back and have them as extras since before that i wasted so much time messing around trying to figure out if it was the carb or something else, but i do have to run them dry on the ethanol free fuel prior to storing.
 
Well, upon further investigation (not sure how I missed this) but the choke was getting stuck closed. Gonna straighten that out and should be fine then. The master switch works through choke, and high idle so I think with that choke straightened out it'll be OK.
 
Well, upon further investigation (not sure how I missed this) but the choke was getting stuck closed. Gonna straighten that out and should be fine then. The master switch works through choke, and high idle so I think with that choke straightened out it'll be OK.
I was fixing to post that the choke wasn't releasing.
If it hits on choke and then floods after you turn the choke off then that's all it can be.

Do you have a metal plate between the carb and the filter base?
I've seen those hold the choke shut
 
I think it was just the way that the choke plate fit inside the carb venturi. I took it out and shaved a little bit off two areas with the Dremel and set it back in, so now it moves fine and doesn't get hung up on the venturi. Can't believe I didn't notice that beforehand lol mustve just been one of those things I overlooked somehow. It fired right up; took a little bit to burn off the excess fuel in the cylinder lol but it screams now!

Thanks everyone for all of the suggestions and input!
 
That's why i rebuilt and tested OEM carbs for a 200t and a 660 a couple years back and have them as extras since before that i wasted so much time messing around trying to figure out if it was the carb or something else, but i do have to run them dry on the ethanol free fuel prior to storing.
I had all these same issues today on couple 200T's and im still working on it . The problem is OEM for those saws is stupid high priced.
 
I think it was just the way that the choke plate fit inside the carb venturi. I took it out and shaved a little bit off two areas with the Dremel and set it back in, so now it moves fine and doesn't get hung up on the venturi. Can't believe I didn't notice that beforehand lol mustve just been one of those things I overlooked somehow. It fired right up; took a little bit to burn off the excess fuel in the cylinder lol but it screams now!

Thanks everyone for all of the suggestions and input!
wow ,cool.
 
Sweet, always great to find the low cost solution. Similar thing happened to me years ago with choke plate getting hung up on filter base, i was working with bunch of mixed parts from a 064 and 066, and sometimes as mentioned there is a small gasket or metal plate between the carb and base, some of those old IPLs have the pics
 

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