Stihl 088 just died

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garjess

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Just got a 088. First time out I made four 32" cuts and the fifth cut it was running wide open and died. It was running great and then it sounded like you turned the switch off. After much pulling I got it restarted but as soon as I hit the trigger it died. Did that three times and I was too tired to pull anymore. I thought the high side of the carb had gotten clogged so I cleaned the carb out but had the same results. Cleaned it again and put a rebuild kit in it with the same results.
What should I check next?
 
Put more fuel in...:dumb:

Seriously tho, checking the fuel lines for obvious signs of damage would be my first call

...and then because I am a mechanical tard I would take it to the local dealer
 
If its the fuel vent, unscrew the fuel cap to balance the tank pressure and try to restart.

If there was an underlying issue to start with, like an air leak by crank seal, intake boot, base gasket it could have gaulded the piston, pull the muffler and inspect through exhaust port.

Carburetor fuel pump pulse line may have come off or broken. Inspect fuel pump pulse line for damage, or just being unplugged.

Check coil/plug for fire.

After you did all that, check to see if it has gas in it. :laugh:
 
Every time I've unhooked the fuel line or opened the fuel cap it has had pressure on it. Fuel is definitely getting to the carb.
Muffler is clear, piston looks brand new. The impulse line is attached and appears to be ok.
Spark looks good.
 
Last time this happened to me with a big Stihl saw was with an 084. Crank shaft seals were shot. Yes, I had good compression and a spark, and I tried two carbs, including a brand new one with no luck. Yes, it is rare that the crank seals give up, but that is exactly what the problem was. It is not an easy fix. :(
 
Sheared woodruff key??? Sometimes the flywheel will actually bind onto the crankshaft and still have enough friction to turn the shaft. You would still have compression, spark and all that but the timing would be off and not run. I have encountered it many times during builds and it sounds exactly like what is going on. Pop the flywheel off and check it, it may not be the problem, but is certainly worth a look for as little effort as it takes.
 
I'm going to pressure test it and I'll check the woodruff key also. Pressure testing should be interesting, that muffler setup wont be the easiest to seal off. Anybody have any tips for that? I was going to start with replacing the exhaust gasket with a little thicker piece of rubber and reinstall the muffler. It'll be Tuesday before I can get back to it. I'll let you know what I find.
 
The muffler on that saw is probably held in place with the clips, not bolts/screws. Yes, I can see the difficulty in the pressure test. A thin piece of rubber may work using the muffler and clips, but you may have better luck with a small homemade plate the same size as the muffler flange, a piece of rubber, and some modified clamps, or needle nose vise grips.
 
My gut is telling me the woodruff key is sheared.... It failed under load and the description is that it shut off like a switch. If there was an air leak that substantial, you would have noticed it revving way higher before it died. The fact that you could start it right after it died is more than likely because the engine was hot, so any fuel that was in there didn't have to compress as crucially at the right time. Once it cooled a bit, it became hard to start. I highly doubt on a compression or air problem. And if it was a fuel mix problem, you would not have gotten that far into the first cut and the Piston would be seized... You would know that instantly. The only other thing that would cause the issue the way you described it is electrical (spark plug, plug boot, plug wire etc.) But you ruled that out by saying you still have spark. You already said it felt like good compression and the Piston isn't scored... Engine failure is out. You verified fuel and spark. The only thing remaining on a 2 stroke engine is timing. The only thing that keeps it in time is the woodruff key. The fact that it failed under load makes sense in my mind. I am highly curious about this and can't wait to hear the outcome. I wish you the best of luck!!!
 
My gut is telling me the woodruff key is sheared.... It failed under load and the description is that it shut off like a switch. If there was an air leak that substantial, you would have noticed it revving way higher before it died. The fact that you could start it right after it died is more than likely because the engine was hot, so any fuel that was in there didn't have to compress as crucially at the right time. Once it cooled a bit, it became hard to start. I highly doubt on a compression or air problem. And if it was a fuel mix problem, you would not have gotten that far into the first cut and the Piston would be seized... You would know that instantly. The only other thing that would cause the issue the way you described it is electrical (spark plug, plug boot, plug wire etc.) But you ruled that out by saying you still have spark. You already said it felt like good compression and the Piston isn't scored... Engine failure is out. You verified fuel and spark. The only thing remaining on a 2 stroke engine is timing. The only thing that keeps it in time is the woodruff key. The fact that it failed under load makes sense in my mind. I am highly curious about this and can't wait to hear the outcome. I wish you the best of luck!!!
I also had this happen before, except with a Stilh MS390 and a Husqvarna 51. Once both the key shears and the shaft is loose from the flywheel, you are a dead duck because the engine is a dead hammer. Usually, however, it occurs because the crankshaft nut is not torqued down enough. The flywheel is held in place by the torque on the nut, not the key. The key simply provides the correct position for the flywheel and does practically nothing to secure the flywheel to the shaft.
 
I'm going to pressure test it and I'll check the woodruff key also. Pressure testing should be interesting, that muffler setup wont be the easiest to seal off. Anybody have any tips for that? I was going to start with replacing the exhaust gasket with a little thicker piece of rubber and reinstall the muffler. It'll be Tuesday before I can get back to it. I'll let you know what I find.

Vacuum test it too. Use soapy water by the crank seals to look for air bubbles. I will also post some you tube video links I sent a guy on a group I belong to.










These are just a few, I especially like the methodical and thorough way the guy in the last guy presents diagnosing. I would seek all his videos and try to go in the order that leads to finding the actual cause rather than haphazard and guess at it by random tests.

I am very interested to see what you find out too, especially regarding the woodruff key scenario.
 
I use rubber tire patches to block ports, they are soft and conform to port shape so you know you have a good seal there

I plan to do likewise once I get my 075 and 051 top ends on and the new fuel system parts installed. Hey, Farmguy.... This leads me to a question regarding the oiler setup on these saws. Is there anything I need to block off in the oiler aspect for these saws when checking for air leaks?
 

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