Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by SamT1, Dec 10, 2018.
Here’s a shot of the hole.
Looks good to me, but I would have just bought the aftermarket dual port exhaust cover on eBay. $15?
Open that hole up and let it breathe. I quit measuring exhaust port size years ago.
There’s no fun in that.
You think bigger the better? I wonder at what size the spark arrestor becomes the limiting factor.
When you toss them away and don`t run any, two 3/4" holes with no screen delivers a good flow for the 044`s.
Is there really a fire risk running them without a spark arrestor? Im about half the size hole you suggest. I could add another on the other side really easy for dual exhaust. I used to run the 036 when i was younger with no spark arrestors in them. I cut in 20-50 acre pastures. many have dry grass in them, but the chance of burning anything that matters is slim to none. Would a certain length of pipe help prevent a spark? The chain throws lots of sparks in dry wood after the sun goes down anyway.
You may get away with tossing the spark screen in your neck of the woods, not such a good idea out here in Calif. The fire danger here is real, I didn’t even start a fire in my stove till we got a serious rain in late Nov. The bark beetle infestation brought on by an extended drought left our area with MILLIONS of dead trees that are still being cleaned up, add to that the wet year we had after the 5 yr drought and you ve got a perfect storm, the town of Paradise is no more!
It all depends on the conditions you are cutting in and how long a saw is in a cut with the muffler tight up against the wood. In really dry areas fires have been started with saws not running screens. When we are cutting in my area it is about impossible to start a fire by tossing lit matches. We do have really dry summer spells and there might be a slight chance then but few if any of us cut in the dry summer months. We have been too wet since first of September and will continue to be so til the middle of June to ever set a fire even with a little starting fluid.
Our climate is about the exact opposite of yours, we spend about 9 months of really damp to wet conditions, even when the rain or snow stops it takes two months for things to get dry enough to burn. Only standing dead grass that the wind and sun dry out the quickest will burn, the leaves and dead droppings on the forest floor stay wet much longer.
My own 044`s run a exhaust port on each side of the muffler, they actually run quieter than the factory dual port front exit mufflers of which I have tried many but end up taking them off because the noise bothers me too much, maybe just me but I am the one running the saw. They just have a deflector over each port.
Well I got the saw almost back together tonight. I either need a muffler gasket or some copper rtv unless someone thinks the coppers a bad idea I’ll probably go that way. Also need a new spark plug. Mines got crap all over it. Guess I was a little rich.
New meteor piston went in perfect. Scotch brited the cylinder but It was already very nice looking. Without the gasket the squish was .024.
The new China handle and tank housing fit nicely. My only complaint is the selector switch kinda sucks but I’m hoping it loosens up or I’ll try to fit the factory one in it.
I’m pretty anxious to get this thing fired off. If I leave the top plastics off I think i can use my snap on timing light for a tach, maybe it goes that high.
Where would you set the mixture at for “ breakin” or just turn it up to 13800 or so right off the bat and run the hell out of it.
Oh yea and I still need some felling dogs. Can anyone suggest something a little more aggressive than what came on it? I just cut firewood with it. But the loose bark kills me sometimes and I’m missing a tooth off it now. I cut lots of 18” trees.
Always swap your OEM switch assembly to the new aftermarket handle. It should fit like a glove and you keep the high idle feature that you loose with the China assembly.
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Good to know. I’ll see if this is the saw that the high idle is broken on. One of mine doesn’t work anymore. But I don’t remember which saw it is. I assume it’s a cheap part regardless though.
Set it like 1.5 turns out on high. When you hit it the first time, blubbering better. Then tune in wood by sound, so it’s still slightly burbling in wood a bit on the first cuts.
A saw doesn’t need to be pig rich on its first run, just not lean. You just don’t wanna hit it and see it scream to 18k. I’ve had a few lean out from system problems on first revs. It did nothing to the saws, but it’s not preferable. It takes longer than most think to lean score a piston. A piss rev or two won’t do it.
What size solder did you use to check squish? Try .024-.026 solder (.6mm on Amazon) and put though plug hole curved over so it rests against the cylinder wall over the piston pin. Use a socket and 1/4” drive extension and spin the motor over for 20 seconds. That will give you true squish. .024 solder will feel like you’re nor even touching it if you are at 20.
I’ve done jugs that came in a .018 and had guys tell me squish was .032. They were using .060 solder and turning flywheel by hand.
Oh, and open up that muffler outlet to a 3/4” hole.
There's a dual dawg kit for the 361 that fits perfectly. It includes a roller chain catcher as well.
What’s the spec that it needs to be? I’ve never heard of checking a motor by spinning it everything I build is based on a static deck height and going off either an established minimum safe or what it takes to get target compression. I just assumed .018 was the minimum safe static number.
I just stuck some rosin core real soft stuff through the plug hole and rolled it over by hand several times until I did not feel it contact anymore.
No , but it can broaden or narrow the powerband
Wife cut me some vinyl for my plastics. A little custom touch!
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