Fish
Tree Freak
Oh, yeah, you hit it first. It is almost impossible to pinch shut that ventline, BTW
STIHL MS 290 Farm Boss (Extremely Hard to Start Cold)
- Thread starter thetexasrat
- Start date
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Oh, yeah, you hit it first. It is almost impossible to pinch shut that ventline, BTW
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Fish
Tree Freak
Maybe he belongs to the A.S. "Fight Club".............
Fish
Tree Freak
Oh, I didn't notice that he had changed. Sorry
SawTroll
Information Collector
Even the faintest sign that the saw wants to start should be regarded as a "pop".
I have my MS290 Farm Boss about 6 years now and have always had this identical problem every single time I have a first or cold start, and STILL have it to this day!
Did you solve your problem?
I also own a BR380 Blower and was having the identical problem with that as well. I googled that and found a great forum that addressed the issue with that. It turned out to be the gap setting on the magneto end of the spark plug wire at the flywheel under the pull starter. It indicated that it is a very common problem with the STIHL Blowers, and it also stated that these points are very difficult to set because for some reason as you tighten down the holding screws they seem to kick the points out of adjustment so you have to carefully hold each end of the joint as you tighten down each bolt and then recheck and realign as needed until you get it exactly where it belongs.
It took me 3 tries before I got the gap to stay when tightening down the bolts, but my blower now starts on one or two pulls every single cold start, no matter how long it has been sitting unused.
I am wondering if the chainsaws have the same set-up, but am still looking for a manual picture or diagram before taking the saw apart to check it.
I tried your link for the manual, and it appears to be an old or broken one, the manual is not there anymore. But I found EXACTLY what" thetexasrat" and I are both looking for.
The link is: https://permies.com/t/59015/Stihl-chainsaws-Repair-Service-Manuals
It is the STIHL Illustrated Parts Manual, 84 pages, and covers the MS290, 310, & 390.
It also shows the part I mentioned earlier in the thread where the gap was not right straight from the Dealer, & took me 3 times to get it set correct, and that was the cause of my hard start problem on my BR380 Blower. It's called the Ignition Module.
This is a great forum guys! Thanks.
That is why I asked if it was run before he took it to the dealer and they started it with ease.When he was at the dealer they should have showed him the correct way to start it before he left.Something just is not adding up
The Husky dealer in St.Cloud,MN 20 miles from me which is a fleet supply store starts all the new saws up out back and makes sure the buyer knows everything about the saws operation before they leave with it.
I bought both my STIHLs from a Direct Factory Authorized Dealer/Repair Shop. They too started the stuff outside in the back of the shop, then brought it inside to the counter, and didn't show or tell me SQUAT about the starting procedure or anything else! Had to take it home and read the manual. Just about wrecked my shoulder trying to start both the blower and the chainsaw from cold starts since the day I got them home. Was so shocked about the article I found regarding the gap setting at the flywheel on the Ignition module being a royal pain to get set exact. But it was spot on and I have never had a cold start problem since I fixed the gap on the blower. Now to move on to checking the gap on the chainsaw.
An update on my STHIL problems:
I have own 2 STHIL products, a MS290 Saw, and a BR380 Blower. Both of them had been brutally hard to start on the first cold start since the day I got them home and tried to use them on day 2 of owning them. The dealer I purchased them from started them both out behind the buildings work shop then brought them to me at the cashier counter in the showroom, then brought them inside to me and sent me on my way. I took them home (about a mile away) and used them immediately with no problem. Just to be accurate, I purchased them both from the same dealer, but not on the same day. In both cases, the day after I bought & used them, and every time since I have had trouble starting them. I found and fixed the BR380 problem, which turned out to be that the ignition module/flywheel gap was never properly set. After prolonged searches, I finally found an article that addressed that problem, and once I took it apart and checked the gap, found it incorrect and fixed it. From that day on it always starts on one or 2 pulls.
I have not been as lucky in finding/fixing the identical problem with my MA-290 saw. On top of the hard start problem, the saw just spews oil out of the oil to bar hole, as if it were a giant hole instead of little more than a pin hole. When I took it out of the case, the entire bottom of the case was in oil about 1/4" deep! Anyway, I finally got it apart and checked the gap on the ignition module & it was off just like the blower was, so I fixed that. The saw starts with a lot less pulls now but it still is hard to start when cold, and always starts on just about a 1/2 pull without the choke, when working with it and stopping & starting it as needed while working after the first start. When taking the covers off it to check the module gap, the first thing I noticed was that one of the 4 nylon bumpers was missing on the chain/bar cover. I reset the module gap, then had to take apart the brake/clutch drum and band to completely clean every part of the saw & degrease it all because of the spewing oil from the oiler hole and sawdust mixture that accumulated everywhere imaginable. I have ordered a new brake band & spring kit and clutch/drum for it because of the oil contamination and also because of some wear marks on them. I reassembled everything, and then tried starting it. Again, very hard to start, but I expected that because I had emptied and cleaned the tank and fuel filter so I pulled away at it and it finally started up. Ran it a bit, shut it down & tried again, & started no problem with one pull after warm up. I needed to use the saw today, and again, cold start almost impossible. I tried all the diff techniques listed here in this thread. I tried adjusting & readjusting the carb, had everything from flooding to fuel starving. The air filter didn't look bad, but cleaned hell out of it anyway, and set it up for colder temperature starting by flipping that black plastic piece and rotating the rubber plug seal to the other side. Got it started but wouldn't stay running, so played and tweaked the carb settings until it ran & stayed even tho it didn't sound right. I finally decided to leave the air filter off just for the hell of it, and that made it run well enough to finish tweaking the carb settings so it ran smooth and revved properly. Put it the filter & cover back on, then restarted it no problem. About 3 hours later, I finally get where I needed to be to use the saw, it started on the 3rd pull. Start cutting and it dies. Just for craps and giggles, I decided to try to start it and cut without the air filter on it. It ran like a brand new saw! So, I am now waiting on new filters because I have decided to get the nylon weave type instead of the felt paper type since it seems to clog very easily, not to mention that the filter cover can stay on with no filter in the saw. After I take it apart AGAIN to put in the new parts I will see how the new filters affect the running of the saw and see if I need to tweak the carb again or not.
Anyone have any idea why the oiler is spewing oil out like it does? I closed the adjusting screw as far as it seems to go but that has not stopped the excessive oiling. I had in the past had it set to the E for the "Ematic" oiling, but closed it down more when I began noticing excessive oiling. It seemed ok, but the last time I used it it began oiling faster and faster. Then when I finished working with it earlier this year I put it in it's case and was shocked to see all the oil inside the case when I took it out the other day, and the oil tank was empty. There is no crack in the tank and after I started it and turned it off, I was took the bar cover plate off and was watching it just oozing out of the bar oiler hole. Also I noticed that the plugs seem to foul very easy in this saw. Any recommendations on what plug is best? I had already purchased 2 from the same dealer I got the saw at, and they were the Bosch plugs but they seem to foul very easily. The manual says Bosch or NKG. Also, the gap is about the smallest gap I have ever seen on any plug and the crappy plug gauges they sell these days along with the tiny size of the plugs, make it extremely hard to get the gap set to 0.5 mm. I know air/fuel mixture and flooding usually cause fouling but I can't believe that once it gets past the first start it has been running great. Can the adjustments be out enough to make starting hard but not enough to effect how it runs once it warms up & the plugs have been getting fouled on the cold hard starts? I have worked on engines all my life from 4 to 8 cylinders, but just can't seem to understand how these little 1 and 2 cylinder engines stump hell out of me.
I have own 2 STHIL products, a MS290 Saw, and a BR380 Blower. Both of them had been brutally hard to start on the first cold start since the day I got them home and tried to use them on day 2 of owning them. The dealer I purchased them from started them both out behind the buildings work shop then brought them to me at the cashier counter in the showroom, then brought them inside to me and sent me on my way. I took them home (about a mile away) and used them immediately with no problem. Just to be accurate, I purchased them both from the same dealer, but not on the same day. In both cases, the day after I bought & used them, and every time since I have had trouble starting them. I found and fixed the BR380 problem, which turned out to be that the ignition module/flywheel gap was never properly set. After prolonged searches, I finally found an article that addressed that problem, and once I took it apart and checked the gap, found it incorrect and fixed it. From that day on it always starts on one or 2 pulls.
I have not been as lucky in finding/fixing the identical problem with my MA-290 saw. On top of the hard start problem, the saw just spews oil out of the oil to bar hole, as if it were a giant hole instead of little more than a pin hole. When I took it out of the case, the entire bottom of the case was in oil about 1/4" deep! Anyway, I finally got it apart and checked the gap on the ignition module & it was off just like the blower was, so I fixed that. The saw starts with a lot less pulls now but it still is hard to start when cold, and always starts on just about a 1/2 pull without the choke, when working with it and stopping & starting it as needed while working after the first start. When taking the covers off it to check the module gap, the first thing I noticed was that one of the 4 nylon bumpers was missing on the chain/bar cover. I reset the module gap, then had to take apart the brake/clutch drum and band to completely clean every part of the saw & degrease it all because of the spewing oil from the oiler hole and sawdust mixture that accumulated everywhere imaginable. I have ordered a new brake band & spring kit and clutch/drum for it because of the oil contamination and also because of some wear marks on them. I reassembled everything, and then tried starting it. Again, very hard to start, but I expected that because I had emptied and cleaned the tank and fuel filter so I pulled away at it and it finally started up. Ran it a bit, shut it down & tried again, & started no problem with one pull after warm up. I needed to use the saw today, and again, cold start almost impossible. I tried all the diff techniques listed here in this thread. I tried adjusting & readjusting the carb, had everything from flooding to fuel starving. The air filter didn't look bad, but cleaned hell out of it anyway, and set it up for colder temperature starting by flipping that black plastic piece and rotating the rubber plug seal to the other side. Got it started but wouldn't stay running, so played and tweaked the carb settings until it ran & stayed even tho it didn't sound right. I finally decided to leave the air filter off just for the hell of it, and that made it run well enough to finish tweaking the carb settings so it ran smooth and revved properly. Put it the filter & cover back on, then restarted it no problem. About 3 hours later, I finally get where I needed to be to use the saw, it started on the 3rd pull. Start cutting and it dies. Just for craps and giggles, I decided to try to start it and cut without the air filter on it. It ran like a brand new saw! So, I am now waiting on new filters because I have decided to get the nylon weave type instead of the felt paper type since it seems to clog very easily, not to mention that the filter cover can stay on with no filter in the saw. After I take it apart AGAIN to put in the new parts I will see how the new filters affect the running of the saw and see if I need to tweak the carb again or not.
Anyone have any idea why the oiler is spewing oil out like it does? I closed the adjusting screw as far as it seems to go but that has not stopped the excessive oiling. I had in the past had it set to the E for the "Ematic" oiling, but closed it down more when I began noticing excessive oiling. It seemed ok, but the last time I used it it began oiling faster and faster. Then when I finished working with it earlier this year I put it in it's case and was shocked to see all the oil inside the case when I took it out the other day, and the oil tank was empty. There is no crack in the tank and after I started it and turned it off, I was took the bar cover plate off and was watching it just oozing out of the bar oiler hole. Also I noticed that the plugs seem to foul very easy in this saw. Any recommendations on what plug is best? I had already purchased 2 from the same dealer I got the saw at, and they were the Bosch plugs but they seem to foul very easily. The manual says Bosch or NKG. Also, the gap is about the smallest gap I have ever seen on any plug and the crappy plug gauges they sell these days along with the tiny size of the plugs, make it extremely hard to get the gap set to 0.5 mm. I know air/fuel mixture and flooding usually cause fouling but I can't believe that once it gets past the first start it has been running great. Can the adjustments be out enough to make starting hard but not enough to effect how it runs once it warms up & the plugs have been getting fouled on the cold hard starts? I have worked on engines all my life from 4 to 8 cylinders, but just can't seem to understand how these little 1 and 2 cylinder engines stump hell out of me.
