Stihl MS211 Bog

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Deleted member 168049

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Hi, as you may have seen on other threads I've posted today, I've bought a MS211 as a non starter for next to nothing. Managed to win the first battle and got life into it after some tinkering.

Next issue is the ungodly bogging I'm getting. Anything over 10% throttle and it sounds horrible, and as you'll see from the video, also smoking like mad.

Tried replacing the carb and nothing changed, "rebuilt" the carb and it's finally running somewhat smoothly. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 
The chain brake is on pull the black lever back if that dont work something is snapped in the brake linkages.
Bloody hell, you can tell I've never owned a chainsaw before. Pulled it back and what do you know... it ran. How embarrassing, but thank you for that.

HOWEVER still slightly boggy, maybe 1 in 10 revs, but definitely can rev 90%+



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Bloody hell, you can tell I've never owned a chainsaw before. Pulled it back and what do you know... it ran. How embarrassing, but thank you for that.

HOWEVER still slightly boggy, maybe 1 in 10 revs, but definitely can rev 90%+



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That's cool man IDK glad I could help ! My Climber heard it from a room away and knew what it was also without looking.
 
It has to burn off that excess fuel first. Also those pesky chain brake parts!!!
No, seriously, put a chain/bar on it and run it.
Will do, I know you've helped me on my other thread also, so thank you. Shame it's such a rookie error

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That's cool man IDK glad I could help ! My Climber heard it from a room away and knew what it was also without looking.
It's such a silly thing but I guess without experience I can never learn. Thank you

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I have seen molten crankcases from guys that have done similar things.
No biggee.
I usually advise guys to take off the bar and chain while working on the saw, so no fingers are lost in the process.
 
I have seen molten crankcases from guys that have done similar things.
No biggee.
I usually advise guys to take off the bar and chain while working on the saw, so no fingers are lost in the process.
I am generally very safe, but yeah as I said, until I learn the full mechanics mistakes like these are gonna happen. Kind of how I am though, go in head first and see what happens along the way [emoji28].

I see you're very knowledgable with these saws, so if you dont mind, I'm going through all the issues on this and ticking them off one by one. When I engage the choke on this, the white piece (#19 in the diagram attached) which I believe holds the throttle slightly open, slips out of place every time I try and use it, sometimes to the point of not being able to use the throttle/choke without disassembly. Would I need to replace part #19 or the housing it rides in?bc2152ed-d864-436a-8dff-ab6a283bf80c.gif

 
The new piece has more movement where the black forked piece grabs the white paddle piece. Where it is at the end of the fork when the lever is down, and slides on in when the lever is moved up.

211 002.JPG211 003.JPG
 
The new piece has more movement where the black forked piece grabs the white paddle piece. Where it is at the end of the fork when the lever is down, and slides on in when the lever is moved up.

View attachment 807685View attachment 807686
Yeah, it wants to do that, the issue is that as I said, the collar in which it sits doesnt seem to hold it in place, yet nothing seems to be snapped or broken, so i cant tell which part needs replacing. Time to do some more thinking [emoji848]20200317_122735.jpg

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In the past I have melted the plastic slightly, and shaped the holder part to be tighter, then snapped it back in when all has cooled. I have had like a 50% success on that technique.
 

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