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Stihl MS211 - Huge List of Issues!

Deleted member 168049
D

Deleted member 168049

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Hi everyone,

I bought a MS211 in used/not working condition with the claim that it had bogging/carburettor issues... oh boy did I let myself in for a ride. I was shown the saw when I first bought it, it would idle pretty well, however even the slightest amount of pressure on the throttle and it was instantly bogging (Without bar/chain).

I initially saw that it was CAKED in dirt, I mean I've had to literally peel sheets of sawdust and oil gunk off everything, it's shocking to see something left in such a bad condition, but hey, that didn't fix anything. I then looked at my exhaust and port to see if something is blocked, It doesn't have a mesh screen like I've seen with a lot of saws on YouTube, the muffler was completely hollow, and the exhaust port only had a tiny amount of black 'soot' which was wiped off. I then looked at the cylinder to see that it hadn't been scored, which was a relief I'll admit.

The carburettor was obviously my next port of call. I took the original one off, stripped it down and soaked it in cleaner to try and remove any lodged dirt in the system, which when I replaced it in the saw, worked for about 3 pulls... max revs and everything! Obviously it had to stop working after that, and the condition of running deteriorated from there, so I decided to change the carb altogether. I've replaced it with a cheap eBay carb because I'm not willing to drop money on genuine products if the saw is totalled, however It's now in the worst condition I've seen it.

When it finally starts, it barely idles, it chuffs blue-ish smoke, any amount of throttle makes it bog instantly.

Any advice? - Connor
 
vortec325

vortec325

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I’ve bought cheap carbs on eBay before . They are pretty hit or miss . Some are set up pretty good and others you can’t adjust enough to get it right . With that said have you adjusted the carb at all ? Could just need some simple adjustments


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
HarleyT

HarleyT

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Take the original carb back apart, and take it apart and clean it properly. Sounds like your best bet.
When you have it apart, post back.
 
Freudianfloyd

Freudianfloyd

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Are you sure it is a carb issue. I have one of these, and have a thread somewhere on it. I could not it get it running right no matter what I did. I replaced seals, rebuilt carb, new plug, etc. No scoring on the piston. I was ready to throw it in the garbage, but took a break from it and went back and figured it out. The piston was worn down to paper thin on one side below the rings, so it would show compression. I replaced the piston and ring and it now runs great. I have no idea how this saw did this without transfer in the cylinder. Maybe it was a factory defect? The entire time, I though for sure it was a carb issue.

It's probably a long shot, but when you give up hope on all other possibilities, maybe give it a check.
 
Deleted member 168049
D

Deleted member 168049

Guest
Are you sure it is a carb issue. I have one of these, and have a thread somewhere on it. I could not it get it running right no matter what I did. I replaced seals, rebuilt carb, new plug, etc. No scoring on the piston. I was ready to throw it in the garbage, but took a break from it and went back and figured it out. The piston was worn down to paper thin on one side below the rings, so it would show compression. I replaced the piston and ring and it now runs great. I have no idea how this saw did this without transfer in the cylinder. Maybe it was a factory defect? The entire time, I though for sure it was a carb issue.

It's probably a long shot, but when you give up hope on all other possibilities, maybe give it a check.
I've got no idea if it is a carb issue, that's what I was told and that seems like the most obvious thing, however may not be the issue at all. That's why im asking for advice :cheers:. I will definitely see about a new piston ring now though! Seems like you've had a very similar issue :)
 
Deleted member 168049
D

Deleted member 168049

Guest
Take the original carb back apart, and take it apart and clean it properly. Sounds like your best bet.
When you have it apart, post back.
"The carburettor was obviously my next port of call. I took the original one off, stripped it down and soaked it in cleaner to try and remove any lodged dirt in the system, which when I replaced it in the saw, worked for about 3 pulls... max revs and everything! Obviously it had to stop working after that"

Tried cleaning it and stripping it, seemed to partially work for a while then gave up the ghost altogether
 
Deleted member 168049
D

Deleted member 168049

Guest
I’ve bought cheap carbs on eBay before . They are pretty hit or miss . Some are set up pretty good and others you can’t adjust enough to get it right . With that said have you adjusted the carb at all ? Could just need some simple adjustments


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Adjusting has made it idle better than before, however its super lumpy and really just isn't happy. Adjusting the high end does absolutely nothing, seems like a genuine carb may be in order?
 
HarleyT

HarleyT

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When you take it back apart, remove the spring/needle/lever, and clear out that passage beneath it, and hold it up to a light to ensure that it is clear.
 
Freudianfloyd

Freudianfloyd

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I've got no idea if it is a carb issue, that's what I was told and that seems like the most obvious thing, however may not be the issue at all. That's why im asking for advice :cheers:. I will definitely see about a new piston ring now though! Seems like you've had a very similar issue :)
Like I said, it is a long shot, but it wasn't specifically the ring that was the issue. The piston skirt was paper thin, so the entire piston had to be replaced.
 
berrnard

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I've got no idea if it is a carb issue, that's what I was told and that seems like the most obvious thing, however may not be the issue at all. That's why im asking for advice :cheers:. I will definitely see about a new piston ring now though! Seems like you've had a very similar issue :)
if it idles and bogs with throttle, sounds like carb to me. any adjusting on the lean/rich needles? sounds as tho it is too rich, L needle needs adjusted
 
MontanaResident

MontanaResident

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Sounds like you have seen the problem. 2-stroke engines need back pressure from the muffler. Scavenging is the key word and is vital for 2-strokes to work properly.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke_engine

Most everybody here thinks that mufflers, any muffler, all mufflers are restrictive, and if you can just remove THAT restriction you will unleash unlimited power with an afterwards minor carb ajustment. Not So!
 
Deleted member 168049
D

Deleted member 168049

Guest
if it idles and bogs with throttle, sounds like carb to me. any adjusting on the lean/rich needles? sounds as tho it is too rich, L needle needs adjusted
As I said earlier in the thread, I've tried adjusting them and it makes the idling every so slightly less lumpy. As for the high and low end, no matter what I do it bogs instantly
 
Deleted member 168049
D

Deleted member 168049

Guest
Like I said, it is a long shot, but it wasn't specifically the ring that was the issue. The piston skirt was paper thin, so the entire piston had to be replaced.
Do you have any idea where I can find a guide to changing the piston and rings? I'm searching around but as I'm sure you can see, I'm not too experienced in this. Doesnt really matter if I break the saw, just wanna have a go
 
berrnard

berrnard

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As I said earlier in the thread, I've tried adjusting them and it makes the idling every so slightly less lumpy. As for the high and low end, no matter what I do it bogs instantly
have you gone back to factory and started from there? Stihl factory is turned all the way down on L and H. one full turn CCW on L, 3/4 turn CCW on H.
H will do nothing for bogging from idle, H is for your high end revs.
 
Deleted member 168049
D

Deleted member 168049

Guest
have you gone back to factory and started from there? Stihl factory is turned all the way down on L and H. one full turn CCW on L, 3/4 turn CCW on H.
H will do nothing for bogging from idle, H is for your high end revs.
Sadly yes ive tried with both carbs, seemed better with original carb so I'll change back to that and see tonight. Thanks for your help :)
 
SteveH

SteveH

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My 211 does have a screen. Not sure what a "mesh" screen is. Mine is, I believe, brass. I do have to clean it regularly. Only problem with the saw is one I've heard many times, the bar-oil leaking issue. But that has nothing to do with the carb, etc.

A Stihl tech told me that he has many people bring in a 211 and most of them have caked-up screens.
 
Deleted member 168049
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Deleted member 168049

Guest
My 211 does have a screen. Not sure what a "mesh" screen is. Mine is, I believe, brass. I do have to clean it regularly. Only problem with the saw is one I've heard many times, the bar-oil leaking issue. But that has nothing to do with the carb, etc.

A Stihl tech told me that he has many people bring in a 211 and most of them have caked-up screens.
Well that is worrying! At least that answers another of my questions, better have a look at finding a replacement now. All mine has is a muffler and a heat shield protecting it from the block. As for oil leak, I definitely believe you there, but that's a tiny issue compared to my current list!
 
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