Stihl ms261 piston question (burned)

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Do you have the IPL and service manual for this saw? I can send you what I have if needed. Part number 1140 007 1802 is the updated fuel filter and solenoid for this saw.


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Yeah I do, thanks though!

And, actually this made me look again, this solution is super cheap, compared to what the online IPL I had checked said!
:numberone:
 
So to sum up.

I got a few people here saying I need to find a used OEM coil - could be the issue.
And
You guys saying it's more likely to be the solonoid and wire harness.

Just to make it clear, we are talking about a SAW not making spark, no matter how I try.
I took out the carb cables as well, no spark etc.
 
I would wait on that coil, those normally are pretty solid. Like stated above look at that solenoid and wiring harness for possible faults first. What did you get this ‘cheapish’ saw for?


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got it for just below 100$
And prices in EU are way, way, higher than in the US.

I could probably sell it, like it is, for 100-150$ easy, If I wanted.
 
got it for just below 100$
And prices in EU are way, way, higher than in the US.

I could probably sell it, like it is, for 100-150$ easy, If I wanted.

Well if you wanna part with this ‘horrible horrible’ saw I know a guy who’ll take it.
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Well if you wanna part with this ‘horrible horrible’ saw I know a guy who’ll take it.
giphy.gif



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haha nice, I am in Denmark though, might be a lil costly?
Anyhow, I bought it mostly, mostly, to try and learn something new....gotta say I got what I wanted, and more.
 
haha nice, I am in Denmark though, might be a lil costly?
Anyhow, I bought it mostly, mostly, to try and learn something new....gotta say I got what I wanted, and more.


Yes these m Tronics definitely add some mystery to a typically simple machine. Even if the coil ends up being the fault you’re going to replace that solenoid and filter to the upgraded versions or you might end up here again. I bought an old 044 from a guy in Budapest about 9 months ago, you never know lol.


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Anyhow, I bought it mostly, mostly, to try and learn something new....gotta say I got what I wanted, and more.
Well, You jumped in with BOTH feet! Now you know how to price non-running M-tronic's. It use to a peek at the piston was all that you needed.

You should be able to make a cheap spark tester out of a NE-2 or other neon bulb. This would at least tell you if the M-tronic portion was mostly intact.
 
Well, You jumped in with BOTH feet! Now you know how to price non-running M-tronic's. It use to a peek at the piston was all that you needed.

You should be able to make a cheap spark tester out of a NE-2 or other neon bulb. This would at least tell you if the M-tronic portion was mostly intact.

Indeed!

Ill continue on this saw for a bit for sure, if only to learn some more.

Did recheck the wires, harness etc. It really looks solid to me.
I won't start buying stuff untill I have had a look at that solonoid. (will be next week for that Torx10 to show up)

Are they anything like lawn tractor solonoids? or just too small to really play with?
 
This "cheap" saw turning out to be way too expensive for my liking!

If it's a new coil + solonoid, would be like 4 times what I paid for it. :cry:

....Anyhow, I bought it mostly, mostly, to try and learn something new....gotta say I got what I wanted, and more.
You got it for just under $100 for a challenging saw to learn a thing or two. Kudos to you for taking it on! You are worried about spending more than you paid for it with parts to fix it, but how much there does it cost to buy a new one or even a newish one that is running? At some point it will run great and hopefully did not cost as much as a newish used one. But look at all the experience your getting with the price of admission. If my 261c-m goes bonkers I'll look back at your posting to help get it going. Cheers...
 
You got it for just under $100 for a challenging saw to learn a thing or two. Kudos to you for taking it on! You are worried about spending more than you paid for it with parts to fix it, but how much there does it cost to buy a new one or even a newish one that is running? At some point it will run great and hopefully did not cost as much as a newish used one. But look at all the experience your getting with the price of admission. If my 261c-m goes bonkers I'll look back at your posting to help get it going. Cheers...

Time will tell, on the price to get it running.

Solonoid check is first step - just to see how these things look, and if it's filthy like the carb was inside.

Next step, got a few stihl connections that are looking for a used coil, and a dealer who is going to answer a few questions about the wires/harness etc. But it's holidays in Denmark, so have to wait till next week. :havingarest:
 
Dumb question, but how does your flywheel look? Any evidence that it got rubbed by the coil? Is the yellow coating still visible on the magnets?

At least on this side of the pond, the solenoid “kit” with the filter, fuel line and solenoid is actually cheaper than the solenoid itself.

Anytime I have has a bad solenoid, it’s caused the saw to be pig rich, that’s the factory default. Even though you don’t see a spark, did you try a little squirt of mix down the carb bore?

I am fairly certain that the coil won’t fire without a solenoid connected, because many guys experimenting with swapping parts for performance gaind would have to leave the solenoid connected in the carb box when they swapped in non-mT carbs to play.

You can find used non-MT parts and convert it over to standard tune if you can’t take playing with it anymore.
 
Dumb question, but how does your flywheel look? Any evidence that it got rubbed by the coil? Is the yellow coating still visible on the magnets?

At least on this side of the pond, the solenoid “kit” with the filter, fuel line and solenoid is actually cheaper than the solenoid itself.

Anytime I have has a bad solenoid, it’s caused the saw to be pig rich, that’s the factory default. Even though you don’t see a spark, did you try a little squirt of mix down the carb bore?

I am fairly certain that the coil won’t fire without a solenoid connected, because many guys experimenting with swapping parts for performance gaind would have to leave the solenoid connected in the carb box when they swapped in non-mT carbs to play.

You can find used non-MT parts and convert it over to standard tune if you can’t take playing with it anymore.
Nice ideas, Thanks.
I Will check flywheel, and post pic later, it looked ok to me, but who knows.

Yeah. I understand that from reading the respons in here, the solonoid and or wires might cause no spark.
I did get a hold of a guy, Who sadly did not have a spare coil. He said he would follow the SM from stihl and swap the coil, he did not think much of the idea, that the solonoid causing no spark issue.

But, No matter what I am getting the Kit, It's cheap. The coil might even come from same dealer, used oem.

I was actually thinking of, last resort, swapping to non M-tronic.
But that requires
New top cover
New coil
New wires
New Carb.

Not sure it is worth it.
 
Might’ve already been mentioned, but are there 2 sets of magnets on the flywheel? And are both sets working?’

Wondering if maybe the standard 261 only had one set of magnets and the saw was put together with some non mtronic parts to make a sale
 
Might’ve already been mentioned, but are there 2 sets of magnets on the flywheel? And are both sets working?’

Wondering if maybe the standard 261 only had one set of magnets and the saw was put together with some non mtronic parts to make a sale
I Will check, pretty sure it has.

Doubt the seller had any clue how to do that. He ran the saw pretty ****** obviously.
 
Here is the flywheel.
Does have some minor scratching actually.
 

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Mtronic coils tend to not fire unless the rope is pulled hard. Might be the cause also

Damn well, how hard we talking here?
Pulled it many, many times to test, both with and without plug in etc.

Can give it another whack, but doubt this is the cause, also since seller sold as he could not start it.
 
I just went trough all the wires, took everything, but the "safety torx" and solonoid out (will have the tool in a few days).
All wires seem good, also passing multimeter test.

So, I would say solonoid and coil seems pretty much the way to go from here.

Wil update asap.
 
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