Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Philbert, Oct 31, 2019.
That will wear off soon enough.........
I'm finding with the long bar the husky gauge on the low setting is a bit much and the hi isn't quite enough so wouldn't mind giving 1 of these ago. In saying that I could just adjust the husky 1 a tad. I am using the husky gauge on stihl chain so perhaps that's why But as poge said the we raised handle looks nice and the bar groove hook will be handy. I have a stihl saddle type and all it gets used for is the hook and sometimes check the angles a bit.
I should have gotten @Spoon Carving With Tom to get me a set whilst he was still in the UK.
To rephrase: Do the lower edges rest on the drive link or the rivet, and do you know if are they accurate just for Stihl chains or others as well?
It straddles the tie straps/drive link.
OK, so the slot in the front edge butts up against the back of the cutter, straddles the side links and the bottom of the plate rests on the rear rivets of the cutter. The rear of the plate rests on the following cutter, forming a downward angle. The surface of the hole on the plate should be the ideal height for the depth gauge. Have I got it right?
Pretty much it's the line from tie strap to the top of the cutter. What are you using at the moment? The husky 1 is at a shop near you if you need 1 now
Well, from Pogo's picture it looks like the plate straddles the strap rather than rests on it, ultimately coming to rest on the rivets. It seems that Hannes' progressive guide rested on the strap. There are arguments for either way, but my real question is . . . do the numbers of the chain - gauge and pitch (with variations like LP), allow a reasonably accurate depth gauge "gauge" that could be used with any brand of chain, or are we stuck with brand specific gauges?
I see what ya meant it straddles it yes but only to locate it left and right the middle section of the slot is what its sitting down on not the rivets. I use mine over Oregon carlton stihl old Windsor umm even some old saber chain chisels and semi once ha get used to it on a certain type of chain ya get a feel for what it likes. Variables being bar length type of wood or even the grunt of the saw.
A 10-10 I find on Oregon semi 16 inch bar still needs the high setting and perhaps a stroke or two lower vs that same 16 and chain on a pm700 will happily eat with it on the lower setting. Then switch to a Oregon chisel and the learning starts again. There all close enough to not need to worry about brand vs brand. The 32 inch bar needs a little more than the high but low is a bit grabby but still ok though so wait till next file and perhaps try in the middle. I love chain talk
I just ordered a set of these from Husky but would be willing to try the Stihl as well. Put me down for 3/8lp, .325, and regular 3/8.
My order is the same as the above quoted.
(2) each of all 5 sizes
Coming from the previous thread, and having built my own depth gauge according to Hannes69's plans, I was suitably impressed to find these gauges readily available here in South Africa. They cost about 70 Rands ( around $ 4.50), so are a very cheap accessory to buy. They work extremely well, and - surprise! surprise! - they are hardened to about HRC65, which means that one can file right over them without causing damage! Quick and easy to use.
On top of this, they have an additional guide bar cleaning hook, groove depth scale, and the small point can be used to clean out the oil holes in your bar. Neato!
I highly recommend them.
I would like to order (1) each of all 5 sizes.
The Husky, Stihl, and Carlton gauges rest on the tie strap, not the rivet, hence the main reason Hannes developed his style gauge which does use the rivet as the pivot point..., to theoretically achieve a more constant angle throughout the life of the cutter (as extensively discussed in his thread).
The fact that these gauges appear to rest against the rear of the cutter in front of it is purely incidental and not actually the case at all. Also, of all these progressive style gauges, some of the File-o-Plates are really the only ones that are chain specific (other than basic pitch). The exception with all of them is humped safety chain for obvious reasons. Most other safety chain (including Oregon Vanguard) is compatible with the progressive raker gauges. Again, with Carlton's File-o-Plates being the general exception.
Other than that, the only other chain characteristics that will yield differing results from brand to brand would be those of the cutter design itself and would be fairly subtle in real world conditions. Those differences can actually be calculated with Hannes' software if the critical dimensions of the various cutter designs are plugged into his formula.
For those interested in the 'Hannes' references, here's a link to that rather lengthy, controversial, and highly enlightening discussion...
The Hannes Raker Gauge Home Page
Click the attached for a little more on the positioning of a progressive style depth gauge tool on a chain.
OK, I'm sold. I'll go for one of each: 1/4, 3/8LP, .325, 3/8, .404
I'm in for one of each as well.
I’ve seen lots of orders placed (I want one too) but haven’t seen anyone actually volunteer to source them for us? Did I miss that.
The husky gauge works really well. Shame it’s soft steel. Hard steel alone would make this style a big upgrade:
I was wondering the same thing. I think we just need to find someone over there willing to order and ship
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