stihl rm vs rs chains---which one and why?

[svk]

For me the RS lasts significantly longer than LGX or any Carlton or Oregon semi chisel (over double the mileage) before it needed to be sharpened assuming I kept them out of the rocks. I have a couple loops of semi chisel chain left and when I switch back to them I subconsciously wonder what is wrong with the saw LOL. I will be converting to all full chisel once those chains are worn out sometime this year. I normally don't have to cut trees in gritty conditions up here so the extra mileage from semi isn't an issue.

I have a fleet supply locally that has fairly reasonable prices on Stihl chain. It is still 3-5 bucks more per loop than Oregon but not double like the Stihl MSRP.

 

[clemsonfor]

Last 20" lgx loops I bought were $10 shipped to my door. I won't touch a stihl chain again for their price. You can almost always find the 72LGX for $15 shipped on sale as well.

Stihl may be a tad better but oregon chain is good too and probably the #1 brand chain used. And at half price to me its a no brainer. And chain labeling is very confusing.

 

[Oldman47]

LGX chain is full chisel so a bit less tolerant of dirty wood but it cuts fast and you can sharpen a 20 inch loop in about 5 to 10 minutes in the field. Just drive the stump vice into a stump, lock down the saw bar, adjust your Granberg File-n-Joint or the similar Oregon sharpener guide and file the chain. You will be back in business in under 10 minutes with a chain that is sharper than any brand new chain. Now that I own a File-n-Joint I am seeing the identical Oregon guide for about $10 less than I paid available at Lowes but still far less than a couple of spare chains.

 

[svk]

LGX chain is full chisel so a bit less tolerant of dirty wood but it cuts fast and you can sharpen a 20 inch loop in about 5 to 10 minutes in the field. Just drive the stump vice into a stump, lock down the saw bar, adjust your Granberg File-n-Joint or the similar Oregon sharpener guide and file the chain. You will be back in business in under 10 minutes with a chain that is sharper than any brand new chain. Now that I own a File-n-Joint I am seeing the identical Oregon guide for about $10 less than I paid available at Lowes but still far less than a couple of spare chains.

On this topic, I have heard the quality of the Granberg has varied over the years, but usually it was the better tool. Would you say the current offerings from Granberg and Oregon are equal, or is one better?

 

[Oldman47]

I really liked one of the Oregon ones at Lowes when I saw it yesterday, but that was the one with the dusty packaging. The one in the clean package did not look nearly as high quality. Model number was identical.

 

[svk]

I really liked one of the Oregon ones at Lowes when I saw it yesterday, but that was the one with the dusty packaging. The one in the clean package did not look nearly as high quality. Model number was identical.

Might be wise to scour Ebay for a NOS one then. I heard someone had picked up a granberg recently and the casting was really poor...cant remember which thread though.....

 

[capetrees]

Back to the RM vs RS, I have recently learned that I may have been sharpening my chains at angles appropriate for as RS but may be running RM. My local supplier "thinks" he sells yellow RM only but isn't sure. I've been sharpening the chains at 30-60-90 (RS specs) and maybe they should be 30-75-90, (RM specs). Is there any way to tell once out of the box if a chain is RM or RS? Any imprints on the chain or link lengths or setups?

 

[clemsonfor]

Back to the RM vs RS, I have recently learned that I may have been sharpening my chains at angles appropriate for as RS but may be running RM. My local supplier "thinks" he sells yellow RM only but isn't sure. I've been sharpening the chains at 30-60-90 (RS specs) and maybe they should be 30-75-90, (RM specs). Is there any way to tell once out of the box if a chain is RM or RS? Any imprints on the chain or link lengths or setups?

It's sold the same number of links and usually lengths.

The only way to tell is look at it one is semi chisel and on chisel. One looks like a 7 and one like ?

There obvious if you look at them.

 

[sunfish]

My local supplier "thinks" he sells yellow RM only but isn't sure.

He doesn't know what he's selling?

 

[capetrees]

He doesn't know what he's selling?

He knows what he's selling to a point. No a lot of "pros" in this area that buy and use chainsaws so what he sells has always been good enough for the customers. Leave it to me to ask a question and now he's putting some thought into it. He's probably always going to sell yellow RM from now on. He's apparently been sharpening the chains the same as I have, 30-60-90 on all the chains without complaint because he didn't know. Mistake? Yes, but now he's correcting that.

It's sold the same number of links and usually lengths.

The only way to tell is look at it one is semi chisel and on chisel. One looks like a 7 and one like ?

There obvious if you look at them.

Looking at the two chains out of the box, yes, it would be obvious but is it still obvious after I have perhaps taken an RM and sharpened it to the specs of an RS?

 

[clemsonfor]

He knows what he's selling to a point. No a lot of "pros" in this area that buy and use chainsaws so what he sells has always been good enough for the customers. Leave it to me to ask a question and now he's putting some thought into it. He's probably always going to sell yellow RM from now on. He's apparently been sharpening the chains the same as I have, 30-60-90 on all the chains without complaint because he didn't know. Mistake? Yes, but now he's correcting that.




Looking at the two chains out of the box, yes, it would be obvious but is it still obvious after I have perhaps taken an RM and sharpened it to the specs of an RS?

Yes. Cause you can't change the shape of the cutter by sharpening it. Loot at the edge where the top plate rolls over to go down to the tie strap. Or best case look at the back of the cutter. This is where you see that "7" shape or the "?"shape. When I say back. Look at the back side of the cutter , not the one you sharpen. Look down the chain. The tie strap and top Plat will either look like a 7 OR ?.

 

[capetrees]

And so from what I'm reading in here, 7 is RS and ? is RM.

I have brand new RM and my chains look like it so I guess I've been sharpening them to the wrong angle. I'm going to look at an RS today to compare just for my own piece of mind so I know what to look for in the future.

 

[clemsonfor]

Oh yes. Your correct. RS is full chisel or 7

 

[GVS]

On this topic, I have heard the quality of the Granberg has varied over the years, but usually it was the better tool. Would you say the current offerings from Granberg and Oregon are equal, or is one better?

I have both the Oregon and Granberg.My opinion and experience :Granberg is the better of the two.The Oregon must have had the angle scale fouled up in some way from the left side of the saw to the right.After a few sharpenings the saw would begin sawing in circles.

 

[Philbert]

Is there any way to tell once out of the box if a chain is RM or RS? Any imprints on the chain or link lengths or setups?

It is best, in my opinion, to step back from the trademarked, brand names and use general, descriptive terms.

- 'Full Chisel' cutters have flat top plates and flat side plates that meet along a sharp side edge, and have a sharp leading point. They look most like the numeral seven ('7'). It is the fastest cutting chain, until that point gets dull or damaged;

- 'Semi-Chisel' cutters also have flat top plates and flat side plates, but meet along a curved/radiused side edge. They lack that sharp leading point, which makes them less susceptible to damage, but do not cut quite as fast. The degree of radius can vary among different brand or models of chain, so you have to look closely. They are the 'all-season radials' of saw chain, IMO:

- 'Chipper' cutters form an almost continuous curve as they transition from the top to the side plates. These are the ones that really look like a question mark ('?'). Chipper chain cut slowest, but continued to cut the longest in dirty wood, As I understand it, it is no longer being produced for hand-held chain saws, although, some loops, and some reels of 'barn find' chain are still floating around.

(Carlton)

I have recently learned that I may have been sharpening my chains at angles appropriate for as RS but may be running RM.

The 'ideal' angles will vary with the species of wood, wood condition (e.g. frozen?), your saw, technique, etc. Think of manufacturer's recommended angles as starting points for general cutting. Bottom line is if the work for you. Experiment a bit, but don't sweat it unless you are racing.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

On this topic, I have heard the quality of the Granberg has varied over the years, but usually it was the better tool. Would you say the current offerings from Granberg and Oregon are equal, or is one better?

Oldest Granbergs were 'File-N-Grind': had a shorter base. Newer versions are 'File-N-Joint': have a larger, more stable base. The brand names and models have varied over the years, with older ones still available used on eBay. The physical size has also varied quite a bit.

Current Granberg is G 106B - smaller than some older models, and cast in a lightweight alloy:
http://granberg.com/product/g106b-file-n-joint
https://www.baileysonline.com/Chain...nberg-File-N-Joint-Precision-Filing-Guide.axd

Current Oregon models are their large, all metal, Professional (model23736A):
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/barmountfileguide.htm
http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...849-Professional-Bar-Mounted-Filing-Guide.axd

The Oregon Sure Sharp (model 23820 ) is no longer listed in their catalog, but available in many stores, and on line, for about half the cost. Smaller and more plastic, but works.

More info in this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

Philbert

 

[Cody]

Back to the RM vs RS, I have recently learned that I may have been sharpening my chains at angles appropriate for as RS but may be running RM. My local supplier "thinks" he sells yellow RM only but isn't sure. I've been sharpening the chains at 30-60-90 (RS specs) and maybe they should be 30-75-90, (RM specs). Is there any way to tell once out of the box if a chain is RM or RS? Any imprints on the chain or link lengths or setups?

What I've noticed with Stihl chain is that if the colored tie strap is on the left side it is full chisel chain, and with the semi chisel the colored tie strap is on the right side of the chain. That should be a dead giveaway but I could be wrong. I've never had Stihls square chisel chain in hand.

 

[Philbert]

. . . if the colored tie strap is on the left side it is full chisel chain, and with the semi chisel the colored tie strap is on the right side of the chain. . .

Interesting theory, but unlikely to be that consistent. Especially if the loops are made up in a shop off of a bulk roll.

Philbert

 

[Cody]

Interesting theory, but unlikely to be that consistent. Especially if the loops are made up in a shop off of a bulk roll.

Philbert

Like I said I could be wrong but I've got dozens of Stihl chains that came from boxes and all are consistent. Dealers around here don't do off the roll stuff and I agree with if it was a dealer that it would be the opposite, would they even have the colored tie straps? I don't know. I don't know where Stihl packages their boxed chains but I would imagine they do have a process in which that little colored tie strap means more than one may think. The company I worked for now makes both the earth and ice augers for Stihl and they had VERY strict procedures. They would refuse a whole shipment of augers/extensions if a label wasn't put on properly on just one box.

 

[Philbert]

STIHL has a whole catalog of chain parts. Hundreds of individual pieces, once you add up each of the separate components (up to 7 per loop?), for each type of chain, in every pitch, and including older styles/models.

The colored tie straps are in there, and dealers can order them. Although, I assume that most use the proper colored tie straps packed with each 100 foot roll of chain.

Philbert