Stihl vs Baileys ripping chain

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newbliss

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Looking for input from those who have used both Bailey's ripping chain and the Stihl ripping chain. I have followed previous threads on this topic, and am just hoping I can get more folks to chime in with their experience before I drop some dough on new chain. I have used both (mostly Bailey's) and I think I do have some washboarding with the Bailey's. I have Stihl ripping chain for my 16" bar, but I do most of my milling with a 20" bar, for which I currently only have Bailey's ripping chain, so I can't directly compare easily. Although the Stihl chain is significantly more costly, I would buy it for my 20" bar if the consensus is that it cuts smoother. Thanks for any help in advance.
HAL MINNIGAN
 
Are you talking about Stihl 63 PMX (3/8 Picco) chain?

If you are, Yes it cut's smoother, from what I have cut with it.

It also takes less HP to pull it.

Gary
 
63PMX vs Baileys low profile rip chain

Yes. I'm referring to the 63PMX Stihl ripping chain sold by Logosol. Sorry I wasn't clear. Thanks for the reply and input.
 
Stihl 63 pmx vs. Bailey's low profile

I think I'll bite the bullet and order some Stihl 63 PMX ripping chain. I appreciate everyone's help.
HAL MINNIGAN
 
I think I'll bite the bullet and order some Stihl 63 PMX ripping chain. I appreciate everyone's help.
HAL MINNIGAN

Did'nt know you talking about Bailey's low profile chain

To be fair I have never used Bailey's low profile chain.....just their standard 3/8 milling chain.

It will not work on a reg. 3/8 bar......63 PMX is 3/8 Picco pitch.
You will need to buy a bar also.

You can still buy a 16" Picco bar from Stihl but not 20". I got lucky and found two NOS Stihl 20" Picco bars, 3003 mount, fits 024 to 066.

Last I knew Logosol Stihl 16" PMX chain was $27, you can get
63 PM Picco chain from dealer for around half that price and
change angle your self.

If I buy two or more 16" chains, it's $14 per chain.

What saw are you milling with?

Gary
 
Last edited:
Stihl vs Baileys low profile chain

Thanks Gary. It looks like the devil is in the details.

I am trying to compare the Stihl 63PMX chain with the Baileys low profile ripping chain.

From the Box each was shipped in:

Stihl 63 PMX 3/8 pitch (0.375") .050

Bailey's 30LR (0.365) pitch 0.050

I'm using a Forester Pro 16" bar that I bought from Logosol with the Stihl chain (it has a 3/8 pitch sprocket tip), and an Oregon Power Match 20" bar I got from Baileys (it has a 3/8 pitch sprocket tip).

I noticed the difference in the pitch between the two chains, but the difference didn't seem great enough to require a different sprocket tip or drive sprocket, plus I didn't know a .365" pitch sprocket tip bar existed, so I just have been running the .365 pitch Bailey's chain on my 3/8 pitch Oregon Bar. Perhaps this has been causing a problem.

Maybe I need to just go back to the Stihl PMX chain on my 20" bar and be done with it.

I really appreciate everyone's help and advice.

Hal Minnigan
 
Old thread but fwiw, I use a 441 with 63pmx loops on a Stihl 25" R ES, and the chain rides a little high at the nose, but mills perfectly. I called Baileys over this and several of their guys have used this setup for a long time. I ve noticed no galling or problems thus far.

J
 
i have used Carlton Windsor stihl bailys all work ok i dont see much difference in any?
 
Looking for input from those who have used both Bailey's ripping chain and the Stihl ripping chain. I have followed previous threads on this topic, and am just hoping I can get more folks to chime in with their experience before I drop some dough on new chain. I have used both (mostly Bailey's) and I think I do have some washboarding with the Bailey's. I have Stihl ripping chain for my 16" bar, but I do most of my milling with a 20" bar, for which I currently only have Bailey's ripping chain, so I can't directly compare easily. Although the Stihl chain is significantly more costly, I would buy it for my 20" bar if the consensus is that it cuts smoother. Thanks for any help in advance.
HAL MINNIGAN

(2016 Update) I see the 30LR (LP Ripping) NO LONGER even listed on the bailey's page? Maybe they dropped it when they got the 63PMX? Logosol (Handbook of Cutting equipment) however notes that too aggressive a chain can cause this, can be caused by hand-filing, and that bench grinder will give the smoothest cut when milling...
 
After some testing I found the washboarding effect to be due to a synchronisation between cutting speed and chain speed.
Below is my goto photo to demonstrate this.
Same log, same chain (3/8 full comp, hand filed with 6.5º raker setting, )
The finish on the left is while making a narrow cut near the top of the log - the one on the right is a wider cut near the middle of the log, with the chain touched up somewhere in between the two.

Trying to do something about washboarding is tricky because an operator can't see the cut surface while making the cut and take appropriate action
As I usually only make narrow cuts at the top and bottom of most of the logs I cut I don't usually worry about it because those slabs usually end up going through the chipper.

Chain speed can difficult to control via a standard CS trigger but using a remote locking throttle can help set the throttle back a couple of hundred rpm from WOT.

Cutting speed is determined by things like wood hardness, how aggressive the cutters and rakers have been set, and how much pressure is applied to the cut by the operator.
If the chain is already at maximum cutting speed it can't go any faster, so the only thing would be to make less aggressive by either blunting the cutter or removing some of the cutter length to make the raker angle lower. In the narrow logs that are typically placed onto a logosol it may be worth doing this but if the log is a wide one, making the chain less aggressive for the narrow initial cut will be counter productive when milling the wider section of the log.

Reducing the pressure slightly in the cut by the operator can also help, but if the cutters and rakers are optimised the chain will be self feeding so it may be difficult to do this.

I can't see what grinder versus hand filing has to do with washboarding as chains can be made just as aggressive with either sharpening method.

With some care I can get better finishes with my CSM than I can with the BSM.


C0ntrast.jpg
 
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