Stihl Yellow chains keep failing

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another-user

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ive been running the yellow chains for 2 or 3 years now, and ive got at least 4 of them that have failed, just had another one go today.

just wondering if im missing some maintenance or if im doing something wrong?

ive got both a husqy 455 rancher and 357xp running 20" Forester bar.

the problem is, the links keep binding up on these blades and either the 455 will just throw the blade, or the XP will either get super loose and start slipping, or get super tight and just stop.

ive had tons of blades over the years and never had the links keep binding up like this. at this point id ditch the yellow blades in an instant, but i havnt found anything that comes close to the cutting performance.
 
Are you using a spur or rim sprocket?
Worn spur sprocket can make a chain get tight then loose.
Did the chains work smoothly from the start and get worse as you used them?
Did you run a new chain on a old sprocket?
 
ive been running the yellow chains for 2 or 3 years now, and ive got at least 4 of them that have failed, just had another one go today.

just wondering if im missing some maintenance or if im doing something wrong?

ive got both a husqy 455 rancher and 357xp running 20" Forester bar.

the problem is, the links keep binding up on these blades and either the 455 will just throw the blade, or the XP will either get super loose and start slipping, or get super tight and just stop.

ive had tons of blades over the years and never had the links keep binding up like this. at this point id ditch the yellow blades in an instant, but i havnt found anything that comes close to the cutting performance.



OH!!!! I just noticed your new to the site. :hi:
Welcome aboard!:):):)
 
Almost sounds like lack of oil. Are you sure the oiler is working and are you using real bar oil, not automotive oil? Oil holes in the bars clear? Does the tip of the chain throw off a little oil when you hold it near a flat surface and rev the engine?
 
Almost sounds like lack of oil. Are you sure the oiler is working and are you using real bar oil, not automotive oil? Oil holes in the bars clear? Does the tip of the chain throw off a little oil when you hold it near a flat surface and rev the engine?
Having run canola, automotive, olive & various dedicated 'bar' oils, I'm not too sure the type of oil the OP is using is the root cause of his problems. We almost know multiple Stihl chains are not prone to failure, almost any oil will sort of work as bar lubricant. To get to the bottom of these blade issues, pics of his equipment are needed. Fairly simple really, pic of sprocket, chain & bar and the cause will stand out to those in the know. Despite what the OP 'thinks' posting pics will have him an answer & get him back cutting wood and not damaging his gear. And yes tthe 'blade' term helps us know what we're dealing with.
 
I’ve seen one loose a link but other than that had great luck with them it’s something with your bar/sprocket
 
455 - Did you check the drive links when the chain came off? Throwing often buggers a couple links, which need to be filed down before reinstalling the chain.

357 - Sounds like what happened when I used an aftermarket rim. No such problem with an Oregon rim. I have never tried stihl chains, though.
 
Having run canola, automotive, olive & various dedicated 'bar' oils, I'm not too sure the type of oil the OP is using is the root cause of his problems. We almost know multiple Stihl chains are not prone to failure, almost any oil will sort of work as bar lubricant. To get to the bottom of these blade issues, pics of his equipment are needed. Fairly simple really, pic of sprocket, chain & bar and the cause will stand out to those in the know. Despite what the OP 'thinks' posting pics will have him an answer & get him back cutting wood and not damaging his gear. And yes tthe 'blade' term helps us know what we're dealing with.
True, just covering all the bases.
 
455 - Did you check the drive links when the chain came off? Throwing often buggers a couple links, which need to be filed down before reinstalling the chain.

357 - Sounds like what happened when I used an aftermarket rim. No such problem with an Oregon rim. I have never tried stihl chains, though.

ive never checked the drive links. the only time i know that theyre bad is when i start throwing blades repeatedly, and then i find one thats not moving smoothly.
what needs to be filled on them? ive been cutting for 30 years now and never done that, just pop the blade back on and its normally good to go again.


i can get some pictures of the saw later today/tonight.

as for the oil, yes, its regular chain/bar oil.
 
ive never checked the drive links. the only time i know that theyre bad is when i start throwing blades repeatedly, and then i find one thats not moving smoothly.
what needs to be filled on them? ive been cutting for 30 years now and never done that, just pop the blade back on and its normally good to go again.


i can get some pictures of the saw later today/tonight.

as for the oil, yes, its regular chain/bar oil.

Throwing Blades???

Hard to believe your have 30 years experience, when you call bars blades, and you mix up bars with chains.
 
ive never checked the drive links. the only time i know that theyre bad is when i start throwing blades repeatedly, and then i find one thats not moving smoothly.
what needs to be filled on them? ive been cutting for 30 years now and never done that, just pop the blade back on and its normally good to go again.


i can get some pictures of the saw later today/tonight.

as for the oil, yes, its regular chain/bar oil.

While you are at it... Put up photos of the bar showing the part number, pitch and gauge. Should be stamped on the bar on one side near the powerhead end. Also the part number of the Stihl chains that are problematic.

Stihl uses .050" .063" gauge while a lot of Husky's use .058" gauge. Trying to stuff a .063 " chain into a .058" bar isn't going to work very well...
 
While you are at it... Put up photos of the bar showing the part number, pitch and gauge. Should be stamped on the bar on one side near the powerhead end. Also the part number of the Stihl chains that are problematic.

Stihl uses .050" .063" gauge while a lot of Husky's use .058" gauge. Trying to stuff a .063 " chain into a .058" bar isn't going to work very well...

The guy has 30 years of experience, so it is impossible that he could make such a rookie mistake. I'll take $800 on Name that Instrument, that the blade was mounted backwards and the bar, or I mean the chain was off a bicycle and it was upside down.
 
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