Supersplit owners: are there any carriage roller bearing options?

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What if you welded a 2' long hinged arm to the back if the rear leg, so it pivots to either side. On the end of the arm add a trailer screw jack, the style that can also pivot and pin in a horizontal position.
It could be used on either side that is low.
Do great minds think alike or fools seldom differ? :) I was thinking along those lines at first too, but I think I'll look into if I can make the existing axle pivot to a few different set points that it can be pinned (spring loaded) to, so I can still roll the splitter across the slope.

Regarding the fixing of the UHMWPE, I started out with 12 SS bolts and nylock nuts but am now just using the 4 central ones and the rest of the plastic can float. It was easier to take the plastic off and clean underneath this way, when there are only four bolts. That lip under the overhung end of the plastic is a great idea. But unless siliconing the sides that butt against the two folded upright lips of the main table, how do you stop debris working its way down that gap and under the plastic? I didn't want to silicon it, so now I just undo the four bolts and clean it out every now and then.
 
If you do want to install zerks and don’t want to modify the carriage, you can get almost flush zerks that you use a needle or rubber tipped end for the grease gun.

The cam followers can also be found in a sealed stainless steel version.
 
Why not just drill the bolt and use a grease needle like SuperSplit now provides for bearing that rides on top of the beam?
 
Why use a needle?
So you can grease the bearing/cam follower without a grease fitting. Just stick the grease needle tip in the hole and apply the grease with the gun. People have had issues shearing the fittings off because they stick out to far. This is how SS now assembles the bearing that rides under the rack and on top of the beam. The bolt is drilled and accepts a grease needle.
 
So you can grease the bearing/cam follower without a grease fitting. Just stick the grease needle tip in the hole and apply the grease with the gun. People have had issues shearing the fittings off because they stick out to far. This is how SS now assembles the bearing that rides under the rack and on top of the beam. The bolt is drilled and accepts a grease needle.
We are probably talking about the same thing but perhaps I am confused because I wouldn't call the standard tip a needle. If you look at my images, I don't use the zerk bc I didn't see the need for it. I just press the tip against the bolt head and pump a little grease in. My idea of a needle is the long skinny needles used to pump grease into joint protected by rubber boots like ball joints and CV joints. They leave a small hole in the boot but bugger all really.

I guess time will tell if zerks are needed, to, for example, stop dust getting forced in.
 
Just looked at your pics - we are definitely saying the same thing?

I use this on the end my lock and lube coupler - not a traditional "grease needle" but similar concept:
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Sandhill Crane has done the best UHMWPE mod. Better than mine. You can see it here:
https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...tried-that-didnt-work-out.311514/post-7194954Thanks for those follower/bearing cross references. Good to know.
Yes, learned the hard way to bridge the holes with pipe so the walls don't cave in. That was on a thumb for the pallet forks on my tractor. It came from the factory without any such support and the walls just crushed when I did up the nuts on the mounting bracket, so I welded (I use that term loosely because I absolutely suck at welding) some pipe between the walls.
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I do offer the side plates and hardened (grade 8) bolts for purchase. $200. The plates are counterbored so the zert fitting doesn't interfere with the production table. Just in case someone wanted any.
 

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