synthetics vs castor oil

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A good read for all you guys that keep posting "I will only run synthetic premix oil"

CASTOR OIL
By Bert Striegler.


Back in 1983 there was quite a controversy in magazines about the tests that were necessary to measure the "lubricity" of various oils that might be useful in engines. Castor oil was used as the benchmark, but it was obvious no one knew why this was so. They apparently got a lot of info on various industry tests of lubricants, but these were really designed for other purposes. This was my answer. I will remind you that I was a lubrication engineer and not a chemist, but I drew my chemical info from Bob Durr, the most experienced lubricant scientist in the labs at Conoco.

Bob worked with my group on many product development projects and I can tell you that he is one smart hombre! Small changes were made in the text, but surprisingly very little has really changed since this was originally written. Here goes with the answer:

"I thought I would answer your plea for more information on castor oil and its "film strength", which can be a very misleading term. I have never really seen a satisfactory way to measure the film strength of an oil like castor oil. We routinely use tests like the Falex test, the Timken test or the Shell 4-ball test, but these are primarily designed to measure the effect of chemical extreme pressure agents such as are used in gear oils. These "EP" agents have no function in an IC engine, particularly the two-stroke model engine types.

You really have to go back to the basics of lubrication to get a better handle on what happens in a engine. For any fluid to act as a lubricant, it must first be "polar" enough to wet the moving surfaces. Next, it must have a high resistance to surface boiling and vaporization at the temperatures encountered. Ideally the fluid should have "oiliness", which is difficult to measure but generally requires a rather large molecular structure. Even water can be a good lubricant under the right conditions.

Castor oil meets these rather simple requirements in an engine, with only one really severe drawback in that it is thermally unstable. This unusual instability is the thing that lets castor oil lubricate at temperatures well beyond those at which most synthetics will work.

Castor oil is roughly 87% triglyceride of ricinoleic acid, [ (CH3(CH2)5CH(OH)CH2CH=CH(CH2)7COO)3(OC)3H5 ], which is unique because there is a double bond in the 9th position and a hydroxyl in the 11th position. As the temperature goes up, it loses one molecule of water and becomes a "drying" oil. Another look at the molecule. Castor oil has excellent storage stability at room temperatures, but it polymerizes rapidly as the temperature goes up. As it polymerizes, it forms ever-heavier "oils" that are rich in esters. These esters do not even begin to decompose until the temperature hits about 650 degrees F (343 deg C). Castor oil forms huge molecular structures at these elevated temperatures - in other words, as the temperature goes up, the castor oil exposed to these temperatures responds by becoming an even better lubricant!

Unfortunately, the end byproduct of this process is what we refer to as "varnish." So, you can't have everything, but you can come close by running a mixture of castor oil with polyalkylene glycol like Union Carbide's UCON, or their MA 731. This mixture has some synergistic properties, or better properties than either product had alone. As an interesting sidelight, castor oil can be stabilized to a degree by the addition of Vitamin E (Tocopherol) in small quantities, but if you make it too stable it would no longer offer the unusual high temperature protection that it did before.

Castor oil is not normally soluble in ordinary petroleum oils, but if you polymerize it for several hours at 300 degrees F (149 deg C), the polymerized oil becomes soluble. Hydrogenation achieves somewhat the same effect.

Castor oil has other unique properties. It is highly polar and has a great affinity for metal surfaces.

It has a flash point of only 445 degrees F (229 deg C), but its fire point is about 840 degrees F (449 deg C)! This is very unusual behavior if you consider that polyalkylene glycols flash at about 350-400 degrees F (176-204 deg C)and have a fire point of only about 550 degrees F (288 deg C), or slightly higher.

Nearly all of the common synthetics that we use burn off in the combustion chamber if you get too lean.

Castor oil does not, because it is busily forming more and more complex polymers as the temperature goes up. Most synthetics boil on the cylinder walls at temperatures slightly above their flash point. The same activity can take place in the wrist pin area, depending on engine design.

Synthetics also have another interesting feature - they would like to return to the materials from which they were made, usually things like ethylene oxide, complex alcohols, or other less suitable lubricants. This happens very rapidly when a critical temperature is reached. We call this phenomena "unzippering" for obvious reasons.

So, you have a choice. Run the engine too lean and it gets too hot. The synthetic burns or simply vaporizes, but castor oil decomposes into a soft varnish and a series of ester groups that still have powerful lubricity.

Good reason for a mix of the two lubricants! ( " 927 " is a mix as described here!)

In spite of all this, the synthetics are still excellent lubricants if you know their limitations and work within those limits. Used properly, engine life will be good with either product. Cooked on a lean run, castor oil will win every time. A mix of the two can give the best of both worlds.

Like most things in this old life, lubricants are always a compromise of good and bad properties. Synthetics yield a clean engine, while castor oil yields a dirty engine, but at least now you know why! "

Bert Striegler

Bert was the Sr. Research Eng'r. (ret.) at Conoco Oil Co.
 
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I run maxima 927 its a blend of castor and synthetics and from what I hear I would be willing to bet its the most widely used oil in motocross and kart racing.


From maximas site:

Castor 927 is a unique blend of highly refined castor oil, a specially prepared synthetic and an additive system that reduces carbon and gum formation and provides excellent rust & corrosion protection. Castor 927 also contains an exclusive additive that keeps power valves cleaner and working properly. For all of us that wish to keep our air and water cleaner, Castor 927 is biodegradable. Castor 927 keeps on lubricating; where other lubricants turn to carbon or vaporize, and provides extra protection on cylinder walls, bearing journals and other critical areas at temperatures much higher than other lubricants.
 
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Sounds like Bert and Bob made their careers with oil, certainly have to respect their opinions!

One issue though, "synthetic" doesn't tell us much. As I just posted about in another thread, the "synthetic" label can be hung on an ester based oil or on highly refined dino oil. Note that bean oil is converted or refined if you would into esters when it is heated to high temperatures. The ester based oils seem to be starting where bean oil ends up. I would like to know if Bert is talking about oil based or ester based synthetic oil when he talks about synthetic oil here.

Bean oil is good oil but has been very expensive for a long time and generally hard to find. We ran bean oil in a short track car in the early seventies. Won in very good company and the engine stayed together. The engine was tested on Bobby Allison's dyno and produced more horsepower than Bobby's did at the time. I liked bean oil but when I was using twelve to fourteen quarts a week in my own car it was a little too pricey for me.

Hu
 
interesting artcle there.

run the castor myself (at times). like shootingarts says..... very pricey. $10.95 for a 16 oz pint of 927 locally. reminds me of the dirt bike days. good stuff IMO, and have not noticed any "dirty" or unusual symptoms that some have mentioned here in the past.

on the back of my bottle there are some cautions: Can be mixed with pump or race gasoline. May separate at temperatures below 32F (2C) with some race gasses and AV gas with specific gravity of less than 0.735."

probably not a big deal for most everyone, race gas info can be had from the manufacturer to be sure, maybe for AV gas as well. have not seen anyone ever test race gas, even at the track. i have not noticed any separation in pump gas even at much lower temps than 32F. (7F actually).

the 927 is kind of golden clear in color, and is clear when mixed.

-OMB
 
I also run castor 927 myself. I absolutely love it. As for being expensive, a 64 oz. bottle can be had off ebay for $35 with free shipping. Which is not to bad. I will pay a higher price for the added life of my saws. Smells good too.;)
 
I'm not saying everybody should run castor, just pointing out it doesn't have to say synthetic to be a great oil. really I feel any brand name oil "mixed correctly" should be fine.
 
My brother and dad run castor in model cars, boats, and planes. From what I know it is one of the few oils that doesn't get combusted in the engine. This probably explains why when my brother decided to run a 192T I rebuilt for him with castor it gummed the crap out of it. It certainly smells nice though :D
Anybody involved with model planes will be familiar with the greasy residue left over the wings and fuselage after running castor.
 
So does the castor blend clog carbs in colder temps? Say I cut for a day, put my saw up for the night, and come back out the next day... Could it polymerize in my carb jets and cause issues that quick in temps under 32F?

Will it clog my fuel filter in low temps?

Will it make my rings stick and lower compression?

Will it foul up my muffler on saws that haven't been modified, and clog up what small passages they do have?

Just a few thoughts, I've run mainly Stihl dino oil for years with no issues. Never ran any synthetic in any of my saws yet. I don't see a need to with my stockers.
 
My experience is only with Blendzall in the yellow bottle. It works great in my saws but turned a little sticky in my weed whackers. I only run it in 50cc engines and larger.
 
Maxima 927 works perfectly fine in the cold when mixed with all pump fuels and race fuels as long specific gravity of the fuel is over 0.735.

There are many many oils that use straight castor oil and this is where castor oil gets its bad reputation for being dirty and gumming things up 927 is a blend to keep the benefits of castor while reducing the drawbacks.

Just like synthetic oils not all Castor based oils are the same. Ask somebody who has actually run "maxima 927" and not another brand oil that says castor on the bottle and see if they like it.

My brother and dad run castor in model cars, boats, and planes. From what I know it is one of the few oils that doesn't get combusted in the engine. This probably explains why when my brother decided to run a 192T I rebuilt for him with castor it gummed the crap out of it. It certainly smells nice though
Anybody involved with model planes will be familiar with the greasy residue left over the wings and fuselage after running castor.

So was this 927 or castor model plane oil ?
 
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I also run castor 927 myself. I absolutely love it.as for it being expensive, a 64 oz. bottle can be had off ebay for $35 with free shipping. Which is not to bad. I will pay a higher price for the added life of my saws. Smells good too.;)

hey look somebody who has "actually" tried "maxima 927" oil and not just an oil that said castor on the bottle :)
 
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So was this 927 or castor model plane oil ?

In this case it would have been good quality model castor oil, certainly not 927. Am I correct in saying that Castor Oil won't combust through an engine? What is the recommended ratio of 927? The price sounds OK from what was mentioned above.
I know some of the hot saw guys are running a castor/synthetic blend. I'd run a decent castor just for the smell :)
Unfortunately over 1000's of hours of saw time I am quite happy with my cheap ALCO made full synthetic oil from the US so have realised that high priced oils don't necessarily protect a hot work saw anymore than a decent cheap oil. I have heard numerous people over the years say that "I have noticed more life out of this oil than that oil" and then you find out they only put 20 hours a year on their saws anyway :D
If I was running a $5000 hot saw I'd be running the best oil I could find, regardless of the price.
 
My pet mix :
Blendzall 455 Ultra castor ---1 ounce
added to these oils as an additive:
Motul800
or
BelRay H1R
or
Silkolene pro 2sx --- 5.5 ounces
total 6.5 ounces of majic juice (20:1)

no plug fouling
mixes with these ester oils. DO NOT try this with any petroleum oils or syth blends.
Only castor will seek out the hot spots inside the engine and protect them. Mother Nature wins again dammit.
 
I used to run some 927 in my 2 smoke bikes back in the day. They insides were always clean, but it did leave a little sticky mess in the exhaust.....which I mixed my own gas from the time I was about 6 so that may have something to do with it :laugh::laugh:. Dad said plugs were cheaper than engines :laugh:..
 
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In this case it would have been good quality model castor oil, certainly not 927. Am I correct in saying that Castor Oil won't combust through an engine? What is the recommended ratio of 927? The price sounds OK from what was mentioned above.
I know some of the hot saw guys are running a castor/synthetic blend. I'd run a decent castor just for the smell :)
Unfortunately over 1000's of hours of saw time I am quite happy with my cheap ALCO made full synthetic oil from the US so have realised that high priced oils don't necessarily protect a hot work saw anymore than a decent cheap oil. I have heard numerous people over the years say that "I have noticed more life out of this oil than that oil" and then you find out they only put 20 hours a year on their saws anyway :D
If I was running a $5000 hot saw I'd be running the best oil I could find, regardless of the price.

Matt
This ALCO ( Woodlandpro,Jakmax ) fully synthetic oil, what ever name it comes under,what is it and its base.:confused:
Cheers
 

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