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E fuel is BADDDDDDD especially if the engine running it was not designed to run it. Here's how I think about it. 10% works without to many problems in most engines but do 20% and you have probably double the problems. I'd prefer not to have it at all. If your food is poisoned 10% and it wont kill you but it will shorten your life span would you eat it?

I work for a large farm equipment dealership that sells and service Stihl. I have seen oodles of carbs and fuel lines on chainsaws, small engines and antique tractors that have been damaged due to ethanol. Running the tanks out faster makes the problem better but not all engines get used daily. 10% probably wont cause your engine any major problems if your using it often.

I'm making a slight change in my dyno now and I should have the part and have it running by the end of the week. This topic has given me the urge to test e vs no e in the same octane rating.
 
E fuel is BADDDDDDD especially if the engine running it was not designed to run it...

That's exactly the point- engines made in the 10 years ARE designed with E in mind.

I'm making a slight change in my dyno now and I should have the part and have it running by the end of the week. This topic has given me the urge to test e vs no e in the same octane rating.

That will be an interesting result. I think you will not find any discernable difference.
 
After 6 pages of trying to derail a post, calling me a newbie or anything else you want, ONLY 1 person actually dumped the fuel out of his saws, and replaced it with NON-Ethanol Fuel.


I asked you for a clarification in what I think was your first post. You chose to start more posts so to expect folks to do something like in the above quote is kind of a one way street.

It appeared to me you started out wanting to discuss some comment period about going to e15 and asking what your options were other than caned fuel you had become aware of at thirty dollars a gallon.
 
For the ones saying where's the fact or what not, I'm going to comment as much as I can.
For those of you who may know, some companies or employers have the right to certain such data/patents/discoveries, until such a time it is public. So without violating that and the rules of this site I can try and comment further.

For the comment that I don't know the facts about E15...
E15 1st came available last summer at a gas station in Kansas. It comes from a blend pump, minimum of 4 gallons are allowed to be purchased.
It is specifically set up that way because the local regulators WANT TO "prevent owners of lawnmowers, chainsaws and other smaller motorized devices from fueling up" in their small engine equipment?

Doesn't that direct quote alone tell you that this fuel is NOT MEANT for your small engine equipment?

2nd
I wouldn't throw a bunch of technical terms and such out here. What does it matter how many hours I've been in a lab or study with other people who do this for a living.
The whole point of the post was in the title, test it out yourself. No lab or special equipment needed for the regular pro out here.
Prove it to yourself.



The simplest way to put it is that ethanol is hydrostatic, corrosive, contains less energy than pure gasoline, and lastly just plain bad for your small engine. Go ahead and leave your take full of fuel all winter with ethanol gas, see for yourself.

After 6 pages of trying to derail a post, calling me a newbie or anything else you want, ONLY 1 person actually dumped the fuel out of his saws, and replaced it with NON-Ethanol Fuel.

Later this person posted that a noticeable difference was seen and heard in the saw, and it was tuned after changed after fuel. So making it leaner means the saw needed less fuel and more air hence greater combustion because the straight gas had more energy.

I'm not new to using a chainsaw. I cut enough wood each week to put out 1500 bundles of wood for a small local side business with my cousin.
I have 2 saws.
#1 is a Husqvarna 346xp with 18" bar that I use since 2011 with no issues since day 1.
#2 is a Husqvarna 346xp with 18" bar that is brand new still in the box purchased since it was going to be discontinued and I didn't want to purchase a 550XP until the technology was proven so I bought another 346xp for reserve.

Derail all you want, but demand better fuel. If I put pages and pages of data in a report on this, all backed with the scientific part of data, it would all show its cheaper for the politicians to subsidize the farmers corn by purchasing it and dumping it in the ocean or donating it to a poor country than refining it and putting it in our fuel. But what for? Just prove it for your self with a $5 of non ethanol fuel.

I'm actually in the process of getting a local suppler to bring in non ethanol fuel, because a lot of the guys doing landscape around here spend big money on their equipment in repairs due to the fuel.
And all the repair shops around here are saying its all due to the fuel.
Its going to be made available at a pay at the pump 24 hours for guys in the trades.

The whole point of the post was to get others here to actually do a test for themselves. Why have me prove it to you when your only going to believe it when you can see it anyway? Those would be real word results you could see and not dispute.

I'm still not seeing any facts being presented here.

I'm anxious to see chad's dyno results. At least then we'll have facts. We sure ain't getting any from you.
 
I never had any trouble , and I usally store a 5 gallon can for my saws, trimmers, but, it's stored out of the weather. I seen alot of dudes have gas cans in the back of their trucks for storage. Now I can see where you can get introuble there.
 
I never had any trouble , and I usally store a 5 gallon can for my saws, trimmers, but, it's stored out of the weather. I seen alot of dudes have gas cans in the back of their trucks for storage. Now I can see where you can get introuble there.
I always wondered if gas goes stale or flat like a soda does when the fizz is released time and time again.
 
I nearly fell for the "4 cycle BS" on a weedeater when I was helping a widow. I said if it's 4 cycle it doesn't need mix. Wrong.

Don't know what they gain by that misleading name .

Fortunately we didn't try strait gas before I read the directions.

Now back to your regularly scheduled bickering. :)
 
It already a proven fact that non-E produces more BTUs than ethanol, whether he can measure that is to be seen.

Here's a fact I like. I'm not harping anyone here just making a point with the fact presented here.

BTU's are what?

What kills engines of any kind?
 
Here's a fact I like. I'm not harping anyone here just making a point with the fact presented here.

BTU's are what?

What kills engines of any kind?

Assuming you're not trolling, one BTU is the amount of heat needed to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree F at a specific temperature. Which I don't remember right now.

Nothing to do with killing engines, except maybe by powering them to move, and slowly wear out. They come into play heating the compressed gases, so they can do work (on the piston) on expanding.
 
I always wondered if gas goes stale or flat like a soda does when the fizz is released time and time again.

Nope.....I'll dump the gas into the lawn mower from my saws and trimmers after a month, but from my jug, sealed, I went tru 2 months and no probs.After that I'll feed the mower, or log splitter.
Oldest saw I have that been tru all this is my 028 from my Dad, and she still lives...Bla,,bla bla,, about this crap. Use common sence, and keep your filters clean, sharp chain, that wil keep your saw alive... Keep your cans sealed up..........
 
nope.....i'll dump the gas into the lawn mower from my saws and trimmers after a month, but from my jug, sealed, i went tru 2 months and no probs.after that i'll feed the mower, or log splitter.
Oldest saw i have that been tru all this is my 028 from my dad, and she still lives...bla,,bla bla,, about this crap. Use common sence, and keep your filters clean, sharp chain, that wil keep your saw alive... Keep your cans sealed up..........
Amem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I keep it two months and haven't had a problem with doing so. I use Ultra, my can puffs and shrinks with the temps, and my saws keep running fine.
 
Here's one I can answer without violating anything to my company or this site!

For those of us who keep talking about btu's it stands for British thermal unit
And a btu is:
The British thermal unit (BTU or Btu) is a traditional unit of energy equal to about 1055 joules. It is the amount of energy needed to cool or heat one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. In scientific contexts the BTU has largely been replaced by the SI unit of energy, the joule.

Since were talking about small engines here, the chainsaw were talking about heating water by 1 degree Fahrenheit not cooling.

Here's a statistic for you who think ethanol actually runs so much cooler.

Gasoline (base) 1 US gallon 114,000 BTU/gal
Gasoline (conventional, summer) 0.996 US gallon 114,500 BTU/gal
Gasoline (conventional, winter) 1.013 US gallons 112,500 BTU/gal

Ethanol (E10) 1.019 US gallons 111,836 BTU/gal

Ethanol gas is only slightly lower in Btu's than traditional winter mix gas like much of us have seen in the Midwest and East in the USA.

In terms of temperatures your talking 2 degrees difference and a piston or cylinder nor the plastic on your saw is going to notice that.

Were not talking huge power gains, or huge heat gains, or anything like that. I'm saying the overall performance of your saw will be better, the maintenance will be less, and the overall cost of ownership (or value to the owner of a work saw) will be improved.

Again, going back over and over the same thing I've stated several times.
This site and specifically the Chainsaw forum says tell us your problems.

Reading problems and problems from other saw owners I posted that I feel that ethanol is the biggest contributor to the problems in the saws and other small engines.

Your going to get a better tuned (slightly leaner) saw. Your going to get just a little bit of more performance too.
Your going to get a longer lasting saw and all of its components.

I would think all you out there that either modify a saw or have a modified saw want it to last forever considering you paid for the saw then all the mods to it.

All I can say is try it for yourself.
 
For those of us who keep talking about btu's it stands for British thermal unit
And a btu is:
The British thermal unit (BTU or Btu) is a traditional unit of energy equal to about 1055 joules. It is the amount of energy needed to cool or heat one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. In scientific contexts the BTU has largely been replaced by the SI unit of energy, the joule.

Since were talking about small engines here, the chainsaw were talking about heating water by 1 degree Fahrenheit not cooling.

Here's a statistic for you who think ethanol actually runs so much cooler.

Gasoline (base) 1 US gallon 114,000 BTU/gal
Gasoline (conventional, summer) 0.996 US gallon 114,500 BTU/gal
Gasoline (conventional, winter) 1.013 US gallons 112,500 BTU/gal

Ethanol (E10) 1.019 US gallons 111,836 BTU/gal

Ethanol gas is only slightly lower in Btu's than traditional winter mix gas like much of us have seen in the Midwest and East in the USA.

In terms of temperatures your talking 2 degrees difference and a piston or cylinder nor the plastic on your saw is going to notice that.

Were not talking huge power gains, or huge heat gains, or anything like that. I'm saying the overall performance of your saw will be better, the maintenance will be less, and the overall cost of ownership (or value to the owner of a work saw) will be improved.

Again, going back over and over the same thing I've stated several times.
This site and specifically the Chainsaw forum says tell us your problems.

Reading problems and problems from other saw owners I posted that I feel that ethanol is the biggest contributor to the problems in the saws and other small engines.

Your going to get a better tuned (slightly leaner) saw. Your going to get just a little bit of more performance too.
Your going to get a longer lasting saw and all of its components.

I would think all you out there that either modify a saw or have a modified saw want it to last forever considering you paid for the saw then all the mods to it.

All I can say is try it for yourself.

You sure do use a lot of words to say nothing. Why not just cut to the chase and spam your company website? It sure would save a lot of time.
 
For those of us who keep talking about btu's it stands for British thermal unit
And a btu is:
The British thermal unit (BTU or Btu) is a traditional unit of energy equal to about 1055 joules. It is the amount of energy needed to cool or heat one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. In scientific contexts the BTU has largely been replaced by the SI unit of energy, the joule.

Since were talking about small engines here, the chainsaw were talking about heating water by 1 degree Fahrenheit not cooling.

Here's a statistic for you who think ethanol actually runs so much cooler.

Gasoline (base) 1 US gallon 114,000 BTU/gal
Gasoline (conventional, summer) 0.996 US gallon 114,500 BTU/gal
Gasoline (conventional, winter) 1.013 US gallons 112,500 BTU/gal

Ethanol (E10) 1.019 US gallons 111,836 BTU/gal

Ethanol gas is only slightly lower in Btu's than traditional winter mix gas like much of us have seen in the Midwest and East in the USA.

In terms of temperatures your talking 2 degrees difference and a piston or cylinder nor the plastic on your saw is going to notice that.

Were not talking huge power gains, or huge heat gains, or anything like that. I'm saying the overall performance of your saw will be better, the maintenance will be less, and the overall cost of ownership (or value to the owner of a work saw) will be improved.

Again, going back over and over the same thing I've stated several times.
This site and specifically the Chainsaw forum says tell us your problems.

Reading problems and problems from other saw owners I posted that I feel that ethanol is the biggest contributor to the problems in the saws and other small engines.

Your going to get a better tuned (slightly leaner) saw. Your going to get just a little bit of more performance too.
Your going to get a longer lasting saw and all of its components.

I would think all you out there that either modify a saw or have a modified saw want it to last forever considering you paid for the saw then all the mods to it.

All I can say is try it for yourself.

You should use the search function on this site and find where a "leaner" tune is better. I always try to stay away from the term "lean" seized so one of us is obviously confused on tuning here.
 
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