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Taper-fit bar studs as found on Jreds, repair.

Discussion in 'Homeowner Helper Forum' started by WadePatton, Jan 4, 2019.

  1. WadePatton

    WadePatton ArboristSite Guru

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    I started a thread somewhere else on this, but it has been ignored so I'll post here. I have searched to no avail.

    I'm sure many of y'all know that the studs I'm talking about are slick, no knurling, no threads on the case end. Appears they are epoxied into the backing plate in the oil tank.

    I spun one. Then I poked it back into the tank and cleaned things up a little and pulled it back through. It was okay for 5 minutes then the engine developed an air leak and now have ripped the saw down. The other stud got knocked back into the tank.

    Is there a trick, a substitute, a technique, a better way to affix a bar stud on the 2150 and similar?

    I SEE a stud listed for the H350 that has splines and a bolt head (assume it fits the backing plate in the tank). I think that's going to be my next move. I have little faith in my ability to clear out all the bar oil that's going to contaminate any re-epoxying attempt.

    Has anyone here ever fixed the 2150 type tapered-only bar studs? Thanks
     
  2. WadePatton

    WadePatton ArboristSite Guru

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    barstud.jpg

    I just bought a pair of these. Looks 10X more substantial than what is in there. Might need some fitment work, but I can do that. I'll find out when they get here.

    My local saw shop changed business plans when Jred went to TSC and such. He's out of saw business, and now sawmilling.

    Sold as this part:
    NEW HUSQVARNA BAR STUD FITS 340 345 350 353 346XP 351 359 503875401 OEM



     
  3. Streblerm

    Streblerm Addicted to ArboristSite

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  4. WadePatton

    WadePatton ArboristSite Guru

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    Got all the pieces parts out of the tank now and see what the problem is. See, I twisted the head off the stud.

    Didn't know that before. So the parts coming are knurled where they fit through the tank and these aren't. But these make more sense now.

    Then I started looking at taking the tank apart. Appears that it's plastic-welded together, so nevermind. I'll poke it all through there. once I get it cleaned up--and a stud with the square-head yet intact. Hope that the splines I see on the Husky part aren't too much of a bother. I'll remove them if they're too oversized, epoxy the whole mess.

    20190107_140953.jpg
     
  5. WadePatton

    WadePatton ArboristSite Guru

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    The twisted off bit looked like epoxy (under the goo of oil) and I never saw the missing squared head until I shook it all out.

    It looked like the stud had been glued into the backing plate there--and that's what had me all crossed up.

    Not that big of a deal now.
     
  6. Streblerm

    Streblerm Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I’m not sure what kind of equipment you have or just how crafty and cheap you are but I’d be tempted to drill a hole in the square head just smaller than the taper and plug weld it back to the stud.
     
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  7. WadePatton

    WadePatton ArboristSite Guru

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    I have studs in the mail and no welder handy. If I had a nice welder, I'd fab up something entirely better--but don't need to waste time engineering that when it's not convenient.
     
  8. WadePatton

    WadePatton ArboristSite Guru

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    Hey the parts got here. There is no knurling on the shaft as it appears in the is photo.

    And that's just fine. As you were.
     
  9. WadePatton

    WadePatton ArboristSite Guru

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    So I popped the new ones in with a little fiddling around, no magnets atall. All is fine and doodly with that aspect.

    This whole thread came about because I didn't realize these bar studs were supposed to have square heads on them. I had ripped one clean off and it came out without any trace of the head and I had never looked at the back end of a bar stud before.

    A pal has a Dolmar 5100 (or such) needing a stud repair, and I'm expecting it's much the same. At least now I know where to start looking.

    cheers and good chain speed.
     

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