WadePatton
ArboristSite Guru
I started a thread somewhere else on this, but it has been ignored so I'll post here. I have searched to no avail.
I'm sure many of y'all know that the studs I'm talking about are slick, no knurling, no threads on the case end. Appears they are epoxied into the backing plate in the oil tank.
I spun one. Then I poked it back into the tank and cleaned things up a little and pulled it back through. It was okay for 5 minutes then the engine developed an air leak and now have ripped the saw down. The other stud got knocked back into the tank.
Is there a trick, a substitute, a technique, a better way to affix a bar stud on the 2150 and similar?
I SEE a stud listed for the H350 that has splines and a bolt head (assume it fits the backing plate in the tank). I think that's going to be my next move. I have little faith in my ability to clear out all the bar oil that's going to contaminate any re-epoxying attempt.
Has anyone here ever fixed the 2150 type tapered-only bar studs? Thanks
I'm sure many of y'all know that the studs I'm talking about are slick, no knurling, no threads on the case end. Appears they are epoxied into the backing plate in the oil tank.
I spun one. Then I poked it back into the tank and cleaned things up a little and pulled it back through. It was okay for 5 minutes then the engine developed an air leak and now have ripped the saw down. The other stud got knocked back into the tank.
Is there a trick, a substitute, a technique, a better way to affix a bar stud on the 2150 and similar?
I SEE a stud listed for the H350 that has splines and a bolt head (assume it fits the backing plate in the tank). I think that's going to be my next move. I have little faith in my ability to clear out all the bar oil that's going to contaminate any re-epoxying attempt.
Has anyone here ever fixed the 2150 type tapered-only bar studs? Thanks