Tell me about Axes....

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Balanace was not rigged IMO. Look at the left side of the balance point. The Fiskars edge is within an inch or so of the balance point where all ther others are 2 or several inches away. It just meand the center of gravity for the Fiskars is in the head where it ought to be.
Ahh, but the absolute distance from head to balance point will be longer if the handle sicks out on the other side further. Note that they used an X25 rather than an X27 in that segment, and they don't actually even say theirs is better, they just say the balance point should be as close to the head as possible.

Also, the equation for rotational KE is actually KE = mass x r^2 x w^2 (w is angular velocity), so with the r squared term the mass close to the center is really irrelevant.
 
Oh no you don't Chris-PA , you ain't suckin' me back into that ‼
But yes, I know foot-pounds ain't the universally correct way to express energy... I just converted the joule into foot-pound (force) 'cause most can relate.
And also yes... I know we need to know the acceleration (or deceleration) rate, in time or displacement, and the cosine of angle relative to the incline plane and direction of displacement (the wedge shape of the tool head).
But, like I said, you ain't suckin' me back into that ‼
Besides... I'm 8 beverages in.
*
 
Oh no you don't Chris-PA , you ain't suckin' me back into that ‼
But yes, I know foot-pounds ain't the universally correct way to express energy... I just converted the joule into foot-pound (force) 'cause most can relate.
And also yes... I know we need to know the acceleration (or deceleration) rate, in time or displacement, and the cosine of angle relative to the incline plane and direction of displacement (the wedge shape of the tool head).
But, like I said, you ain't suckin' me back into that ‼
Besides... I'm 8 beverages in.
*

Slow night, huh.
 
Since this is about axes and I let the X27 dig into the dirt, is the general consensus a flat file to sharpen it? Did a search and that's what most people seem to use. That and/or a whetstone.

Ambull,

I just use a raker file. Works very well.

Don't feel bad about hitting dirt. My first swing with the Fiskars = a blow through and hitting concrete. The upper edge looks like a gopher has been after it.

Hey guys...that's the only video I know of that even remotely starts to approach a real test of axes. Everything else I have seen is just opinion/reviews/different guys swinging differently in different wood. I know it isn't perfect, but..open to any other true scientific tests.

The best I have is my hands and back my wood with me swinging. Can't brag on my over all grunt, but my aim ain't too shabby....fiskars is far and away the most "accurate" axe I ever hefted. I imagine there are competition axes much better, but never even seen one, let alone use one. I can split more wood and easier with the fiskars over the other tools, in most, but not all, of my wood I cut here. The wood handle maul is what hurt my elbow bad this summer, not the plastic handled fiskars. Couldn't split much of anything for freaking months, really annoying! I love splitting! I just don't get bad shock from the fiskars like I do with the others. I have no explanation for that, other than nostalgia isn't quantifiable, and there are differences in synthetic handles. . Fiskars handles work, you can swing hard and not much shock.

No idea on their metallurgy, why they make that type of steel. They are quite an old company and are familiar with steels.

I personally don't care one way or the other, if you can replace a handle or not, I *don't* want to have to replace it in the first place. If I bust it, lifetime warranty, I'll replace the handle that way. Anyone wants nostalgia, go for it, there's some chert or flint over there, flake out an axe head sharp, go kill some animal to get some sinews, attach to nostalgic piece of wood of choice, and have at it! No fancy schmancy modern alloy steel made in robotic factories, gots to be old timey, REAL old timey "natural" and "nostalgia"! HAHAHAHAHA

Anyway, we go through this every winter, swing what ya want...don't make me post that pic of the two match halves again..... ;)

What I have been saying all along Zog.

The shock transmission to you is minimal with the Fiskars compared to other tools I have used.

I am curious to how the Council Tools 6lb maul I have coming compares in this category.
 
Ambull,
I just use a raker file. Works very well.
Don't feel bad about hitting dirt. My first swing with the Fiskars = a blow through and hitting concrete. The upper edge looks like a gopher has been after it.
What I have been saying all along Zog.
The shock transmission to you is minimal with the Fiskars compared to other tools I have used.
I am curious to how the Council Tools 6lb maul I have coming compares in this category.

Crap, another thing I need. A raker file. Totally forgot about that. I hope the time comes soon when I don't have to keep buying crap just to cut and split wood.

Yeah, I just went through two pieces of pine and hit some gravel. I think I'll use the sweet gum rounds I picked up as a splitting platform. Fiskars will not go through that stuff.

Can't wait to hear about your Council Tool. Sounds like we have the same aim so if it holds up for you it should be okay for my use too.
 
Crap, another thing I need. A raker file. Totally forgot about that. I hope the time comes soon when I don't have to keep buying crap just to cut and split wood.

Yeah, I just went through two pieces of pine and hit some gravel. I think I'll use the sweet gum rounds I picked up as a splitting platform. Fiskars will not go through that stuff.

Can't wait to hear about your Council Tool. Sounds like we have the same aim so if it holds up for you it should be okay for my use too.

LMAO!!!

I just spit my snuff out.

Yep, if it holds up to the abuse that I put the Fiskars through ( over strikes and pry bar usage on splits) then you should be good. The only reason why I bought this (CT's Maul) is because of CT Yanks thread and a little curiosity. I hope it is a positive experience.

I use Save Edge raker files and always pick up one or two when I order new chain files.

They are hungry little buggers
 
Since this is about axes and I let the X27 dig into the dirt, is the general consensus a flat file to sharpen it? Did a search and that's what most people seem to use. That and/or a whetstone.
Stack a couple of tires, put wood to be split into the tires, no more hitting the dirt, chasing splits or standing them back up.
 
Stack a couple of tires, put wood to be split into the tires, no more hitting the dirt, chasing splits or standing them back up.
You know, I heard about using tires to hold splits but never thought of using more than one. Freaking great idea. I'll get some used ones in the morning and try it out. Thanks
 
Ergonomics is one other thing Fiskars has an advantage or other similarly priced mauls. It feels like an extension of your arm, other tools feel clumsy just picking it up let alone swinging it.
 
Ergonomics...
That's a perception thing... the Fiskars feels funky, or clumsy to me.
I also find it difficult to control when I really "lean" into it... I actually have to take a little off the swing or it gets a mind of its own. Especially if it rebounds (bounces) off a tough round... LOOK OUT, no tellin' where it's goin. But rebound is more a function of (or amplification by) handle material than anything else.
*
 
Especially if it rebounds (bounces) off a tough round... LOOK OUT, no tellin' where it's goin.
*
Yeah, I've had it rebound and come within inches of my skull. I think lack of control comes from your focus being shifted from picking a spot on the round to muscling the maul.
 
I think lack of control comes from your focus being shifted from picking a spot on the round to muscling the maul.
Hmmmm.... Maybe, but I don't have any problem "muscling" my 8# maul, or any of the hickory handled strikin' tools. I have a fiberglass handled nail hammer that does the same thing... I miss the nail as much as I hit it. I believe it's more a technique thing; with a hickory handle you actually release, or relax, your grip just as the tool strikes... if you do that with a synthetic handle it'll rattle your spectacles off your face. I believe I have problems making the transition in technique (shrug)
Kind'a like teaching an old dog new tricks LOL ‼
*
 
Hmmmm.... Maybe, but I don't have any problem "muscling" my 8# maul, or any of the hickory handled strikin' tools. I have a fiberglass handled nail hammer that does the same thing... I miss the nail as much as I hit it. I believe it's more a technique thing; with a hickory handle you actually release, or relax, your grip just as the tool strikes... if you do that with a synthetic handle it'll rattle your spectacles off your face. I believe I have problems making the transition in technique (shrug)
Kind'a like teaching an old dog new tricks LOL ‼
*

Been saying that over and over again now for years. It just is not, ain't an 8lb maul. Swing it like that with a maul mindset (muscle memory from repetition in the past) and technique, you aren't going to get any sort of good results with it. It takes some time and thinking about it to get the different technique down, muscle memory doesn't happen with a few test swings. And learning it wrong, doing it wrong over an extended session or sessions, will give you muscle memory that is wrong, and it still won't work right. No amount of muscle is going to compensate and give adequate results.

I do the fiskars like the guy in the vid, but also drop my knees just a little, dropping my body in other words, just a hair before impact, that gives even more additional speed.

The fiskars really only works well with speed, accuracy, reading the wood good, not half good, and the combo of all that plus sharp as the technique. It's also a big plus to start at the outside and work in, right away exactly opposite from how most guys approach a big round with a heavy maul, they want to smack it down the center.
 
right away exactly opposite from how most guys approach a big round with a heavy maul, they want to smack it down the center.
i gotta say, I split down the middle, axe or maul - or at least through the center of the grain. Because that is where the checks and cracks go.
 
i gotta say, I split down the middle, axe or maul - or at least through the center of the grain. Because that is where the checks and cracks go.

I can do it that way, two strikes near the edge leading to the center, with the grain, two cracks now. Next strike between the two perpendicular and an inch or two in, and slab off the outside piece with the bark. Do it again and again, now you have a clean round, no bark and it will split whichever way you need it to. to me, once the bark is off anything, it splits way mo bettah easier.

But right in the middle busting it in half, only smallish ones. I ain't got the grunt or technique whatever to do that, (speaking with a fiskars, not a maul) so I do it the other way. As a stunt I can walk a crack across a big one and eventually pop it, but it wastes strikes, not as effective, so I don't do it much.

I always have to find the easiest way that works for me, and we are all different. I can't really muscle anything, I have to finesse it.

This is why we all get different results with the same or similar tools.

And yes, I play around a lot when splitting, trying this or that, fun for me. Sometimes I am really just trying to put wood in the stack, so I'll stick to what I know -so far- what works in that situation, but a lot of times I try different stuff and stop and think about it. Always like to learn new stuff.

Another reason I liked the hokey fiskars promo vid, at least it is an attempt to take the human variables out. Something like those axe holder machines done independently would be a good scientific test. Especially if you could adjust speed of machine swing, and had plenty of the same size wood. The axes and mauls would have to be in stock as shipped form for the initial tests.
 

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