Tell me about Axes....

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I split mostly with an axe, but find few have an appropriate head shape for most wood, in that they have too narrow a taper that gets stuck too easily. For some wood that's OK, and for some you can do the "handle twist" as the head enters the wood, but for other wood that's hopeless and won't work.

I also find that most axes in stores are too light at 3-1/2lb, and usually come with a crap handle poorly mounted. That said, all my axes are cheap junk bought locally or head I found. The original handles fail quickly and then I put on something better, usually a Link handle - they seem to be the best of what I can find in stores, but you still must pick and chose. I like something around 4-1/2lb, but those are had to find locally (except HF). With some attention to mounting a proper wooden handle and sharpening and reshaping the cutting edge, I find they work quite well. I'm trying to avoid ordering things on line if possible.

Both of the tools in these threads still work well:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/axe-me-about-my-new-axe.186934/
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/axe-me-about-my-new-axe.186934/

I'm planning on buying another of those 4-1/2lb HF axes and reshaping the face to a steeper angle.
 
I bought the truper splitting axe at TSC for 25 bucks and it works a heck of a lot better than the splitting maul I have. I don't split much anymore that I bought a DHT 27 ton but sometimes I like to take down some straight grain hard maple for fun. A lot of the stuff I split in the past was a wedge and a 20lb sledge anhyhow as the splitting maul just bounces off standing dead elm rounds.
 
I've got a husky maul at home waiting to be tried out. I have a x27 but don't use it much. The x25 had a better head design. I use a 5 lb council falling axe for kindling. It seems to do great for that stuff.
 
Quick summary of what everyone is going to say:
1.Axes are not for splitting, that is a job for mauls.
2.Big box stores carry cheep Chinese axes/mauls.
Both of these points are valid.
You are already getting the X27 guys pounding their favorite. (I have one too and it is a good tool but not the best in any category, but could very well be the best compromise in all categories.)
You will also get some comment about fiberglass handles being tougher, and wood handles taking more shock away from your hands. While true that fiberglass handles are stronge, the epoxy that holds fiberglass handles in breaks down and the head will work loose. (Very quickly on cheep mauls) And the shock that a good hickory handle takes out of your hands will quickly destroy a cheep hickory handle.
You will also get some guys that ignore your $50 price limit and start talking about their favorite axe/maul. It does not matter if it is a Gransfors or Sthil they are out of your price range. They may be nice tools but if you can't spend the dough what does it matter? Even the Fiskars is right on the edge of your price.
If you want to spend less than $50 you will have to shop in flee markets and yard sales to find a good tool. With wood handle you want the grain to be in the direction of the strike. You also want the outer wood (not heart wood) on a hickory handle. If there is some dark wood in a hickory handle or if the lines in the wood run perpendicular to the cutting edge you don't want it. Of course any wood handle is only as good as the operator. A missed swing, and over-strike, or even a misread split can put a dent or even snap your wood handle.

So you have 3 options.
1. Buy a cheep tool. Break it. Buy another cheep tool. Break it too. Curse because you could have spent less money now up front and got a good tool.
2. Get lucky and find an old quality tool used. Learn how to use it so that you never miss and the handle holds up or learn how to replace handles often.
3. Up your budget a little because the X27 is $50 plus shipping, and you will need a sledge and wedge for the tougher rounds as well. The Fiskars is not designed for driving wedges nor is it great at knots or crotches. You can always noodle what the Fiskars can't split and only buy one tool. But unless you find a free shipping deal you won't get a X27 for under $50. The X25 is a good tool too, but frankly I find the X27's handle to be a bit on the short side for my taste.
Good write up wow. Do you write for a living or what?
 
We use an 8 pound splitting maul with a fiberglass handle it has lasted more then ten years. I call it a go devil no one seems to know what the hell that means. 6 lbs aint enough to bust the bigger stuff. I find the fiberglass handles hold up better to mis - strikes . Back in the old days I made my own handles from Hickory or White Oak but now I have money so I just buy stuff!
 
I have split 5-7 cords a year for about 6 yrs with a Collins 8 lb and Collins 13 lb mauls. When the synthetic handle on the 8 lber finally came loose I cut the handle off and use it now for a splitting wedge. I decided I would give the famous X27 a try and I am not impressed. It works well for some straight grained stuff but I still prefer a heavier maul.
 
I have over thirty axes. All old vintage ones that ring like a bell if tapped on. I've used almost all the patterns on single bits and double bits. I bought the dvd above on axes . I have lined them up and split green oak. In my opinion the best splitting axe is a 3.5lb Kelly jersey pattern axe. It will run thru the wood. I have big 5lb jersey patterns too and they don't do as good as the 3.5lb ones? I guess I can't swing them as fast. The jersey pattern seems to be a lot better pattern than any other axe in my opinion. On the old axes you can honestly put a shaving sharp edge with a file.:)
 
I have an x27 splitting ax... believe me, you'll also need a splitting maul.
If you get a splitting maul you won't "need" a splitting ax... but you may "want" one.

Swinging a splitting maul requires a different technique that swinging a splitting ax.
I don't know what your experience level is, but if I was to give advice to a novice... start with a 6# maul, add an 8# maul and 4# ax later.
*
 
Must just be me but I hate Fiskars for splitting and chopping. Most my axes have been fitted with Sch40 pipe and handles filled with foam.
works great. you will never break it.

Right now I have been using my 6lb maul with a hickory handle because the handle was free. pretty happy with that.
 
I have an x27 splitting ax... believe me, you'll also need a splitting maul.
If you get a splitting maul you won't "need" a splitting ax... but you may "want" one.

Swinging a splitting maul requires a different technique that swinging a splitting ax.
I don't know what your experience level is, but if I was to give advice to a novice... start with a 6# maul, add an 8# maul and 4# ax later.
*
Not bad advice but once you split with an 8 the only way you go back to a 6 is if you loose the 8 or you are injured!
 
I am happy with my cheapo plastic? handled splitting maul. You see, I like to keep it near the rounds and that means out in the rain here. Wood rots. I think it is year 5 and it is still going. It was a Home Depot cheapo and definitely less than $50.
 
I have no idea where the axe, maul, hammer is gonna land, so I choose to not use them. I did go buy a fiskars hatchet, but have put it away, far out of reach, as I enjoy having my fingers and toes.
 

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